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FRANKLIN INSTITUTE LIBRARY 


PHILADELPHIA, PA. 


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TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING 
AND FINISHING MACHINERY 


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TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, 
PRINTING AND FINISHING 
MACHINERY 


BY 


A. J. HALL, B.Sc., F.L.C. 


se 


AUTHOR OF ‘‘ COTTON CELLULOSE ”’ 
CHIEF CHEMIST TO THE SILVER SPRINGS BLEACHING AND DYEING CO., LTD. 
EXAMINER TO THE CITY AND GUILDS OF LONDON INSTITUTE IN “* WOOL DYEING,”’ “* COTTON 


ae 


AND ARTIFICIAL SILK DYEING ’’ AND SILK AND ARTIFICIAL SILK DYEING ”’ 


NEW YORK 
VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY 


EIGHT: WARREN STREET 


1926 


é 


ns, Lid., Printers, 


Richard Clay & So: 


gay, 


PREPAGE 


ALTHOUGH numerous books have been written about machinery employed in 
spinning and weaving, no book exists which describes the construction and perform- 
ance of the machinery employed to-day for bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing 
textile fabrics, yarns and fibres. This volume has been written with the aim of filling 
this gap in textile literature. 

An attempt of this kind, pioneering as it is, is by no means easy of accomplishment, 
for the task of compilation is increased by the need for selection, and the usual difficulty 
of describing machines by means of written words and diagrams. 

In such a book, therefore, the arrangement of the subject matter may be varied 
considerably. The arrangement adopted by the author is such that the reader may 
imagine himself taken over an ideal bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing works 
and successively shown the various types of machinery by which harsh and dirty 
textile materials are converted into products which are attractively coloured and 
pleasing to handle. It has not always proved possible to arrange the subject matter 
in this manner, but every effort has been made to do so. The book covers so much 
ground previously unexplored that it is possible that certain omissions may occur, 
but every care has been taken to ensure that the information given is accurate and 
up to date. 

It is further hoped that the volume will at least be so far successful that it will 
provide textile engineers, bleachers, dyers, printers, finishers and chemists with a concise 
account of the construction and uses of the machinery employed in that branch of 
the textile industry which, more than others, allows each day’s work to be a source 
of interest and pleasure. 

The author is pleased to acknowledge much valuable assistance in the preparation 
of this book from various manufacturers of textile machinery, who have kindly 
supplied blocks and information relating to their machines. This assistance has 
been indicated throughout the book, but the author especially recognises the help 
given by Messrs. Mather and Platt, Ltd., whose textile machinery is to be found in 
use throughout the world. 

Ay J.) HAL 
July, 1926. 


4853 


CONTENTS 


PART I 
FABRICS 
CHAPTER I PAGES 
MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING . 17-80 


Machinery for Sewing, Plate and Gas Singeing—Air and Gas Compressors—Piling, 
Washing, Squeezing and Impregnating Machines—Kiers for Fabric in Rope Form and 
Open Width—Bleaching Apparatus—Opening and Crease-removing Machines—Mangles 
—Automatic Fabric Guiders—Steam-heated Cylinders and Hot Air Drying Machines— 
Dollheads for Drying Cylinders—Scouring, Milling, Hydro-exhausting and Drying 
Machinery for Woollen Fabrics. 


CHAPTER II 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING . : : : 81-112 
Winch Rope and Open-width Dyeing Maen O56: J ae riction Clutches for Dye 
Jigs—Padding Mangles—Continuous Dyeing Machines for Sulphur Black, Para Red, 
Indigo and Aniline Black—Mercerising Machines with Stenter Frames for Cotton Fabrics 
—Mercerising Machines with Roller Expanders—Caustic Recovery Apparatus for 
Mercerising Machines. 


CHAPTER III 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING . : : : . 113-167 
Brushing, Beating, Cleaning, Shaving and Moteing Mischiner’s —Chp Stretching 
Machines—Preparing Ranges—Colour Mixing Pans—Construction of Printing Machines 
—Nip Fittings for Printing Machines—Single-colour, Six-colour, Eight-colour and 
Twelve-colour Printing Machines—Sample Printing Machine—Printing Machine with 
Suction Washing—Duplex and Sarree Printing Machines—Blanket Washing Machines— 
Drying Machinery for Printed Fabrics—Ageing and Steaming Apparatus—Looped Cloth 
Steaming Chamber—Steaming Cottage—Machines for Washing, Chloring, Fixing, Malting 
and Dunging Printed Fabrics. 


CHAPTER IV 


FINISHING MACHINERY . . : ; : : : : - 168-218 
Belt Stretching Machine—Conditioning Stenter—Brush and Beas Deane Machines— 
Starch Mangles for Slop and Ordinary Starching—Back Filling Mangles—Friction 
Starching Mangles—Jig Stenter with Hot Air Drying—Jigging and Differential Motions 
for Stenters—Swissing, Chasing, Glazing and Friction Calenders—Palmer Finishing 
Machine—Schreiner and Embossing Calenders—Soft Bowls for Calenders—Lancashire 
and Spring Beetling Machines—Stud and Spiral Roller Breaking Machines—Natural 
Lustre Finishing Machine—Crabbing, Raising, Rotary and Flat Plate Pressing Machines 
for Woollen Fabrics—Measuring, Lapping, Rigging, Plaiting and Selvedge Stamping 


Machines. 
PART II 
YARNS 
CHAPTER V 
MACHINES FOR SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING YARNS. . 219-241 


Kiers—Washing, Bleaching and Soaping Machines for Skeins—Brattice Scouring 
Machine—Steam and Electric-driven Hydroextractors—Hot Air Drying Machines— 
Pole Drying Machines—Stretching and Drying Machine for Skeins. 


CHAPTER VI 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN . : : . 242-266 
Automatic and Mechanical Machines for Dyeing Skeine—Mach@ery for Dyeing Warps 
—Cop Dyeing Machines—Machines for Dyeing Tops and Cheeses—Automatic and 
Mechanical Machines for Mercerising Cotton Skeins—Continuous Skein Mercerising 


Machine—Washing and Souring Machines. 
vil 


Vill CONTENTS 


PART III 
LOOSE FIBRES AND KNITTED MATERIALS 
CHAPTER VII PaGns 
MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES . ; F 267-288 


Bleaching Apparatus—Swing Rake and Harrow Wool Scouring Machines—Wool 
Carbonising and Burr Crushing Machines—Machines for Dyeing Loose Wool and Cotton 
—Opening Machines—Drying Machinery—Brattice Drying Machine—Machines for 
Scouring and Dyeing Small Hosiery Goods—Paddle Dyeing Machine—Drying and 
Finishing Machines for Knitted Tubular Fabric. 


CHAPTER VIII 
MACHINERY FOR SCOURING, DYEING, DRYING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS. 289-308 


Scouring and Fulling Machines for Hosiery—Paddle and Rotary Dyeing Machines— 
Folded-fabriec Dyeing Apparatus—Hosiery Printing Machine—Hot Air Dryer for Tubular 
Knitted Fabric—Finishing Machines for Knitted Materials—Raising, Inspecting and 
Cutting Machines for Knitted Goods. 


CHAPTER IX 


MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY . : ; : : : : : : - 309-317 
Steam Traps—Steam Dryers—Bearings for Machinery—Friction Clutches—Automatic 
Slip-Winch. 


INDEX 3 ’ : : : : : : é ‘ F : 318-321 


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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


PART I 
FABRICS 
CHAPTER I 


MACHINES FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING 


Portable Sewing Machine (William Birch) 
Sewing Machine (William Birch) . 
Sewing Stitches (William Birch) 
Construction of Sewing Stitches 
Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather ana Platt) : : 
Construction of a Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Transverse Motion of Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Singeing Plate (Mather and Platt) : 
Gas-heated Plate Singeing Machine (Selas Cas and ecerae Co.) 
Four-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) . 
Flame Singeing Burner (Mather and Platt) : 
Two-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) A : 
Four-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) 
Flame Singeing Burner (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) . 
Section of Flame Singeing Burner (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) 
Compressor for Air and Gas Mixture (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) 
Section of Gas Compressor (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) 
Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Ernest Turner and Co.) 
Automatic Kier Piler (A. Edmeston and Sons) 
Roller Washing Machine (Lang Bridge) 
Roller Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) . 
Slack Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Slack Washing Machine (Lang Bridge) 
Square Beater Washing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Noctoe tad Co. ) 
Square Beater Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Squeezing Machine (Mather and Platt) . 

V-squeezing Rollers 
Levered Pressure System for Marie : 
Roller Washing Machine for Fragile Fabrics (Mather fel Platt) 
High Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) é : 
Section of High Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) . 
Steam Injector (Mather and Platt) 
Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) 
Longitudinal Section of Mather Kier (Mattior and Platt). 
Cross Section of Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) 
Jefferson-Walker Kier (S. Walker and Sons) . 
Automatic Piler for Kiers (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : 
Automatic Piler attached to a Kier (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 
Huillard Open-width Kier (Mather and Platt) 
Jackson Open-width Kier (Jackson and Brother) : 
Impregnating Device for Jackson Kier (Jackson and Brother) 
Continuous Open-width Kier (A. Edmeston and Sons) 
Apparatus for Bleaching Fabric (Mather and Platt) 
Bleaching Apparatus for Fabric (Jackson and Brother) 
Scutcher (Mather and Platt) F 
Three-bar Curved Expander (Mather dad Platt) 
Five-bar Curved Expander (Mather and Platt) 
Swivel Opening and Guiding Rollers (Mather and Platt) 

is 


PACK 
18 
18 
19 
19 
20 
20 
21 
21 
22 
22 
23 
23 
24 
25 
25 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
35 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
41 
42 
43 
if 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
53 


. 54 


ae LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
FIG. 
49 a,b. Scrimp Rail (Mather and Platt) 
50. Scrimp Rail (8S. Walker and Sons) 
51. Spreading Roller (Mather and Platt) 
52. Construction of Spreading Roller (Mather and Platt) 
53a. Wooden Spreading Roller (Taylor Bros.) 
53b. Conical Opening Rollers (Mather and Platt) . 
54. Seroll Rollers (William Birch) ‘ 
55. Three-bowl Water Mangle (Mather and Platt) 
56. Automatic Fabric Guider (D. Foxwell) . 
57. Cylinder Drying Machine (Mather and Platt) 
58 a,b,c. Construction of Drying Cylinder (Mather and Platt) 
59. Drying Cylinder (Bentley and Jaekson) ; 
60. Drying Cylinders for Drying Fabric on One Side (uinthes and Platt) 
61. Cylinder and Winch Drying Machine (Mather and Platt) 
62. Dollhead for Drying Cylinders 
63 a,b. Dollhead and Worm Drive for Deas Cylinders (W. Pp. Evan oa Sonn 
64. Dollhead for Drying Cylinders (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 
65. Cell Drying Machine (S. Walker and Sons) : ; 
66. Construction of Drying Cell (S. Walker and ae 
67. Looped Cloth Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) , 
68. Section of Looped Cloth Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 
69. Looping Device in Looped Cloth Drying Machine (raniipeane) 
70 and 7la. Looped Fabric Drying Machine (A. Koebig) 
716. Circulation of Air in Looped Fabric Drying Machine (A. Koebie) 
72. Woollen Fabric Scouring Machine (Wm. bre and Sons) 
73. Construction of Milling Machine ; g , 
74. Milling Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 
75. Hydroexhauster for Fabrics (Wm. Whiteley and Sans) 
76. Tentering Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) : 
77, 78. Pin Clips for Tentering Machine (Clay and Atkinson) 
79. 'Tentering Machine for Woollen Fabric (Wm. Whiteley and Sona} 
79a. Tentering Machine (Felix Billig) : : ; : 


CHAPTER II 
MACHINERY FOR. DYEING AND MERCERISING 


80. Rope Dye Beck (Mather and Platt) . 
81. Winch Dyeing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sona) 
82. Winch Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) 
83. Dye Jigs (Mather and Platt) ; é : 
84. Section of a Dye Jig 
85. Upper Rollers of a Dye Jig . : 
86. Dye Jig with Squeezing Rollers (Mather and Platt) 
87. Upper Portion of a Dye Jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) . 
88. Constant Speed Dye Jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) 
89. Dye Jig Roller (S. Walker and Sons) 
90. Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Taylor Bros.) 5 
91. Construction of Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Cavioe Bros.) 
92. Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Anderton) : 
93. Construction of Friction Clutch for Dye Jig lAnderran) : 
94. Dye Jig with Submerged Rollers (E. Céhnen) 
95. Padding Mangle (Mather and Platt) 
96, 97,98. Padding Mangles 
99. Sulphur Black Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
100. Para Red Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 
101, 102. Continuous Dyeing Machines for Indigo (Mather tf Platt) 


PAGE 
55 
56 
56 
56 
57 
57 
58 
59 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 


68, 69 


70 
70 
71 
71 
72 
72 
73 
74 
75 
76 
76 
fie 
78 
78 
79 
79 


82 
83 
84 
85 
85 
85 
86 
87 
88 
88 
89 
89 
90 
90 
91 
92 
93. 
94 
96 
97, 99 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xl 


FIG. PAGE 
103, 104. Aniline Black Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : ; eee £00,102 
105. Aniline Black Dyeing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : 103 
106 a,b. Apparatus for After- ae and bees Aniline-black eu Fale (Si ik 

Farmer, Norton and Co.) . 103 
107. Mercerising Machine for Fabric (Mather and Platt) : 5 : ‘ ; . 105 
108. Padding Mangle for Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ : : . 106 
109. Mercerising Machine for Piece Goods (Mather and Platt) : : : ; eet hy 
110. Mercerising Clip (Mather and Platt) : ‘ : ‘ Telos 
111. ‘“* Matter’? Caustic Lye Recovery Apparatus (J. aoe ek Bembere) : : : . 109 
112. Mercerising Machine for Fabric (Benniger) . 5 : 5 : : : SLO 
113. Stretching Apparatus for Mercerising Machine (Benniger) : : é : sy Se 


CHAPTER III 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 


114. Vertical Brushing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : : ; : . 114 
115. Section of Vertical Brushing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : , ell 
116. Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ , . 116 
116a. Section of Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . = SLL 
117. Four-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : , : : ; oe LLS 
118. Construction of Four-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : 3) 
119. Section of Single-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : ‘ : . 120 
120. Mote Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ 5 ‘ ‘ ; : Ava 
121. Canroy Machine (Mather and Platt) : i : : ‘ 3 kes 
122. Short Clip Stretching Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : : . 123 
123. Delivery End of Short Clip Stretching Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : oe AES 
124. Differential Gear of Clip Stretching Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . ee Lew 
125s ean of Differential Gear for Stretching Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and 

0.) : : ; ; : : : ; ¢ ; eZ 
126. Stenter Clip Cisther Ace Platt) ; ‘ . : ; A : : 5 128 
127. Construction of Stenter Clip (Mather and Platt) : : ‘ : ; : a Ps: 
128. Action of a Stenter Clip (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : é : ; mel 29 
129, 130. Stenter Clips (Clay and Atkinson) . i : 2 : : : « 129, 130 
131. Riveted Stenter Clips (Clay and Atkinson) . . ‘ : ead 
132. Oil-protected Stenter Clip Rivet (Sir J. Farmer, N ed and vey ys : : eels 
133. Preparing Range (Mather and Platt) . : : ‘ ; , d ; lon 
134. Preparing Range with Stenter (Mather and Platt) . : : 3 z : . 133 
135. Weft Straightener (Mather and Platt) . ' ; : : ; : : 22 6133 
136. Hot Air Drying Chamber (Mather and Platt) é ; f A f ‘ . 134 
137. Section of Hot Air Drying Chamber (Mather and Platt) . , . : ; . 135 
138. Colour Mixing Pans (Mather and Platt) : : 2 : d : ‘ . 136 
139. Colour Mixing Pans (Longclose Engineering Co.) . ; . , : : . 137 
140. Construction of Single-colour Printing Machine ; : ‘ : ‘ : mola e 
141. Construction of Multi-colour Printing Machine 5 ‘ : : : . 138 
142. Nip Arrangement on a Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : ; j | 138 
143. Box Wheel for Printing Roller (Mather and Platt) . : : : ; : a I) 
144. Compound Slides for Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : - 5 : . 140 
145. Mandrel and Printing Roller (Mather and Platt) . ; : : : F . 140 
146. Mandrel Forcing Machine (Mather and Platt) ; i ; i F : . 141 
147. Single-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt). : ‘ é A ‘ . 142 
148. Six-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . i : : ; . 143 
149. Section of Six-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ ; . 144 
150. Section of Eight-colour Handkerchief Printing Machine (Mather andl Platt) : . 145 
151. Twelve-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : . 146 


152. Worm Reduction Drive for Twelve-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . 147 


X1l LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


FIG. PAGE 
153. Sample Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) 3 ; : . 148 
154. Printing Machine with Suction Washing Device (Mather one Platt) . : ; . 149 
155. Construction of Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ; : - . 149 
156. Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) 5 : ‘ . 150 
157. Section of Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : . 152 
157a. Front View of Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ; - 153 
158. Blanket Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ : : ; . 154 
159. Chest and Cylinder Drying Apparatus (Mather and Platt) : ‘ : ; oie ho 
160. Hot Air Drying Apparatus for Printed Fabrics (Mather and Platt) . ; : . 156 
161. Drying Apparatus with Hot Air and Steam Chests (Mather and Platt) . : Sar 
162. Drying Apparatus for Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : ; «SS 
163. Steam Supply Pipe for Ageing Machines (Mather and Platt) . : ; 3 . 159 
164. Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) ; ; : : - 159 
165. Mouthpiece of Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : : - 160 
166. Looped Fabric Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ ; : : é ior 
167. Steaming Cottage (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : : ; ; » 163 
168. Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Soaping Range (Mather and Platt) : : : . 164 
168a. Construction of Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Soaping Range (Mather and Platt) . 164 
169. Beaters for Washing Machines (Mather and Platt) . - 5 : : 5 » 165 
170. Beaters for Washing Machines (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) ‘ : : 25 65 
171. Washing, Fixing, ea and Malting Machine with Time Wheel (Sir J. Farmer, 

Norton and Co.) : : ‘ . 166 


CHAPTER IV 


FINISHING MACHINERY 


172. Belt Stretching Machine (A. Edmeston and Son) . ; : : : Pee te 
173. Construction of Belt Stretching Machine (A. Edmeston and Son : ; : oa SEQ 
174. Conditioning and Stentering Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ . ; : ae dt 
175. Brush Damping Machine (Mather and Platt) : - : : : 5 » ele 
176. Spray Damping Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) : : : : : «ET 
177, 178. Threading of Fabric in Starching Mangles ‘ : A ‘ : . 174,175 
179. Friction Starching Mangle (Mather and Platt) : 5 : Re di, 
179a. Combined Ordinary and Back Starching Mangle Cuether. and Platt). : : at 2 Air 
180. orp eaieee of Fabric in Combined Ordinary and Back Sree mens Mess and 

latt) . : .- 278. 
181. Drying Cylinder for peel filled Petree! (Sir a Pannen Norton and Ge yee : np eke 
182. Starching and Drying Range for Back-filled Fabrics (Mather and Platt) . ‘ Loe 
183. Hot Air Jig Stentering ee (Mather and Platt) . : : : ‘ ‘ . 180 
184. Jigging Motion . : : ; : ; : : ; : : » / 18d 
185. Construction of Jig Stenter . : : ' é ; > wee 
186. Drive to Hot Air Stenter (Sir J. Fanner Nostan ana Co. ) : ‘ ; : - «182 
187. Jigging Motion of Hot Air Stenter : : : : : .- a183 
188. Palmer Finishing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Nontin end os ee se; : é F . 184 
189. Silk Fabric Finishing (Palmer) Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) ‘ . 185 
190. Construction of Silk Fabric Finishing (Palmer) Machine (Swindells Engine Co.) . 186 
191,192. Blanket Drying Machine with Short Stenter (Swindells Engineering Co.) . 187, 187 
193. Enclosed Side Frame for Calenders : : : ‘ : : : : - ABS 
194. Open Side Frame for Calenders. ; 4 : =; Se 
195. Three-bowl Friction and Finishing Calendar (Mather and Platt) ; ‘ ; . 189 
196. Three-bowl Light Finishing Calender (Mather and Platt) z - - 1190 
197. Six-bowl Calender for Imitation Beetle Finish (Sir J. Farmer, Norton an Core . hoe 
198. Seven-bowl Finishing and Chasing Calender (Mather and Platt) : : : - »b9S 
199. Threadings of Fabric in Seven-bowl Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . oe 
200. Ten-bowl Finishing Calender (Mather and Platt) . ; : ; ‘ . 195 


201. Five-bowl Rack-geared Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Ge. ie : 4 . 196 


FIG. 
202. 
203. 
204. 
205. 
206. 
207. 
208. 
209. 
210. 
211. 
212. 
213. 
214. 
215. 
216. 
217. 
218. 
219. 
220. 
221. 
222. 
223. 
224. 
225. 
226. 
227. 
228. 
229. 


230. 
231. 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


Silk Finishing Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 

Single-nip Schreiner Calender (Mather and Platt) ; 
Driving Arrangement for Bowls of Schreiner Calender (Mather and Platt) 
Arrangement for Skewing Bowls on Schreiner Calender 

Single-nip Schreiner Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 

Section of Soft Bowl for Calenders (Mather and Platt) 

Soft Bowl for Calenders (Mather and Platt) 

Embossing Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : 
Lancashire Beetling Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 

Spring Beetling Machine (Mather and Platt) . 

Hammer of Spring Beetle (Mather and Platt) 

Horizontal Stud Breaking Machine (Mather and Platt) 

Spiral Roller Breaking Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) ; 
Construction of Spiral Breaking Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 
Natural Lustre Finishing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . 
Triple-crabbing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 

Raising Gig (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 

Rotary Pressing Machine (Wm. Whiteley ad Sona) : 

Section of Rotary Pressing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 

Flat Plate Pressing Machine (I. Hattersley Pickard and Co.) . 
Construction of Flat Plate Pressing Machine (F. Hattersley Pickard nel Co. ) 
Section of Flat Plate Pressing Machine (F. Hattersley Pickard and Co.) 
Lapping and Measuring Machine (Cooper and Sons) : ‘ 
Rigging Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) ; 
Rigging Machine with Automatic Fabric Guiders (D. Poeivolt Ba Bons) : 
Plaiting Machine (Cooper and Sons) : : : : : 
Auxiliary to Plaiting Machine (Cooper and Sana) 

Selvedge Stamping Machine (D. Foxwell and Sons) 


PARTEL 
YARNS 
CHAPTER V 


MACHINES FOR SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING, AND DRYING YARNS 


Low Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) . 
Waggon for Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) . 


232, 233. Yarn Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) 


234. 
230. 
236. 
Done 
237a. 
238. 
239. 
240. 
241. 
242. 
243. 


246. 
247. 
248. 
249. 
250. 


Circular Yarn Washing Machine (C. G. Haubold) 

Yarn Bleaching Apparatus (Mather and Platt) 

Soaping Stocks (Mather and Platt) 

Brattice Yarn Scouring Machine (Petrie and MeNuueht) 
De-gumming Vat for Silk Skeins (Swindells Engineering Co.) 
Steam-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) . 

Section of Steam-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) 
Electrically-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) 
Section of Electrically-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) 
Overhead-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) 
Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 


244, 245. Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinacne) 


Section of Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 

Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 

Tunnel Drying Machine for Skeins (Tomlinsons) 

Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine for Yarns (Comlinsons) 
Yarn Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 


Xill 


222, 


PAGH 
GN 
198 
199 
200 
200 
201 
201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 
208 
209 
210 
210 
211 
PAI 
212 
213 
214 
215 
215 
216 
217 
217 
ra Nel 


220 
221 
223 
224 
225 
226 
227 
227 
228 
228 
229 
229 
231 
232 
232 
233 
234 
235 
235 
236 


X1V 

FIG. 
251. 
252. 
253. 
254. 
255. 
256. 


257. 
258. 
259. 
260. 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


Section of Yarn Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) ; 
Yarn Drying Machine with Conditioning Arrangements fTomlnsens) 
Yarn Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught). : 

Section of Yarn Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 

Drying and Stretching Machine for Yarns (B. Cohnen) 

Section of Drying and Stretching Machine (B. Cohnen) 


CHAPTER VI 
MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 
Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . 
Reversing Gear for Skein Dyeing Magne (Mago) 


Arrangement of Reels in Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) 
Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . ; : 


261, 262. Skein Dyeing Machine (8S. Spencer end Son) 


263. 
264. 
265. 


Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . 
‘* Centonip ’? Skein Dyeing Machine (8. Spencer Aad Ses) 


Construction of “‘Centonip”’ Skein Dyeing Machine (S. Spencer ia Son) 


266, 267. Skein Dyeing Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) 


268, 269, 270, 271, and 272. 


273, 274. Skein Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 
275, 276. Machine for Dyeing Warps on Beams (B. Céhnen) 


ins 
278. 
279. 
280. 
281. 
282. 
283. 
284. 
285. 
286. 
287. 

288. 


Cop Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 

Cop Holder (Mather and Platt) : 

Removal of Cops from Cop Dyeing Machine (Mather aad Platt) 

Cop Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 

Cop Spindles (Longclose Engineering Co.) 

Cop Holders and Loading Frames (Longclose Hngneene Co. ) 

Top Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 

Section of Top Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) 

Cheese Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) é : 
Transference of Cheeses to Dyeing Tubes (Longclose Engineering Co.) 
Removal of Cheeses from Dyeing Tubes (Longclose Engineering Co.) 
Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubold) 


289 a, b, c, d, e, f. Operation of Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubola) 
290 a,b. Auxiliary Rollers (C. G. Haubold) . : : ‘ : 
291, 292. Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubold) 


293. 
294. 
295. 


296. 
297. 
298. 
299. 
300. 
301. 
302. 


Circular Skein Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Continuous Skein Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) 
Souring Machine for Skeins (C. G. Haubold) . 


PAR TRL 


LOOSE FIBRES AND KNITTED MATERIALS 


CHAPTER VII 


MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, DYEING, AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 


Three-bowl Continuous Scouring and Dyeing Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 


Section of Self-cleaning Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) 
Section of Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) 


21-Ft. Harrow Scouring Bowl with Squeezing Press (Petrie ona MoNauene) 


Swing-rake Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) . 
Wool Scouring Bowl (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 
Plain Brattice on Malleable Iron Chain (Petrie and McNaught) 


PAGE 


236 
237 
238 
239 
240 
240 


243 
243 
244 
244 


245, 246 


246 
247 
248 


249, 250 


Skein Dyeing Machines (Sandoz Chenavas Co. ) 250, 251, 252, 252, 252 


253, 253 
254, 254 


263, 


255 
255 
256 
256 
257 
257 
258 
258 
259 
259 
259 
260 
261 
262 
263 
264 
265 
266 


268 
269 
270 
271 
272 
273 
273 


FIG, 

303. Perforated Brattice on Malleable Iron Chain (Petrie and McNaught) 
304. Steel Buckle Brattice (Petrie and McNaught) : 
305. Wood Brattice on Brass Chain (Petrie and McNaught) 
306. Wood and Leather Brattice (Petrie and McNaught) 
307. Round and Dagger Prongs for Scouring Machines (Petrie and MoNanchey. 
308. Ten-ton Squeezing Press (Petrie and McNaught) 
309. Continuous Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (Wm. Whiteley and Bona) 
310. Burr Crushing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) . : 
311. Dyeing Machine for Loose Fibres (Longclose Engineering Co.) ‘ 
312. Section of Dyeing Machine for Loose Fibres (Longclose Engineering Co.) . : 
313. oe of Dyed Material from Machine for eyeing Loose Fibres ( ees ae - 

ing Co.) : : 
314. Dyeing Machine for Dears Wi bres (Mather ant Platt) 
315. Machine for Dyeing Loose Fibres (Petrie and McNaught) 
316. Wool Opening Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 
317. Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) ; 
318. Section of Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) 
319. Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) 
320. Section of Schilde Drying Machine (J. Rolland) 
321. Brattice Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 
322. Multitubular Air Heater (Royles) 
323. Indented Steam Pipes (Row’s Patent) fRogtes) 
324. Section of Indented Steam Pipe (Royles) 

CHAPTER VIII 
MACHINERY FOR SCOURING, DYEING, DRYING AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 

325. Scouring Machine for Hosiery (S. Pegg and Sons) 
326. Fulling Mill (S. Pegg and Sons) 
327. Hosiery Scouring and Shrinking Meenas (Hill ean Harber) 
328. Paddle Dyeing Machine (8S. Pegg and Sons) 3 : 
329. Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) . ‘ : F : : 
330, 331. Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co. ) : ; : . 298, 
332. Dyeing Machine for Small Hosiery Goods (Smith, Drum and Co.) 
333. Rotary Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) 
334. Construction of Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) ; ; 
335. Winch Machine for Dyeing Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Wneinosrte Co.) 
336. Dyeing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 
337. Folded Fabric Dyeing Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) ; 
338. Printing Machine for Hosiery (Mellor, Bromley and Co.) é 
339. Horizontal Dryer for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Mandel, McIver Co., U. Ss. nt ) 
340. Vertical Dryer for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Mandel, McIver Co., U.S.A.) . 
341. Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Engineering Co.) 
342. Biscuit for Tubular Knitted Fabric : 
343. Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric iSneya Enemecrine Oa Dy : 
344. Two-bowl Padding Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Engineering Ce: yr 
345. Construction of Two-bowl Beene Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric pone feo 

Engineering Co.) . 
346. Two-bed Steam Press for Hewery (8. Bees ee chat 
347. Blanket Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Saentielia Raeinesnne ioe is: 
348. Pegson Steam-heated Calender for Knitted Fabric (S. Pegg and Sons) é 
349. Small Brushing Machine with Teazles (S. Pegg and Sons) 
350. Single Roller Fleecing Machine (S. Pegg and Sons) 
351. Cloth Inspection Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) 
352. Cutting Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabrics (Swindells Bngineanne Co. ) 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


XV 
PAGE 
273 
274 
274 
274 
275 
275 
276 
277 
278 
279 


279 
280 
281 
282 
283 
284 
285 
285 
286 
287 
287 
287 


289 
290 
291 
292 
292 
293 
294. 
294. 
294 
295 
295 
296 
297 
298 
299 
300 
300 
301 
302 


302 
303 
304 
305 
306 
306 
307 
307 


Xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


CHAPTER IX 
MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 


FIG. PAGE 
353 a, b,c. Construction of Lancaster Steam Trap (Lancaster and Tonge) : 309, 310, 310 
354, Steam Trap (Royles) . : : : : : 5 : 5 Hl 
355. Construction of Syphonia Steam Trap fparien) , 2 : é : : oo OLE 
356. Inlet Valve for Steam Trap (Royles) . ; é 5 ; : : 4 < LdLe 
357. Syphonia Rapid Steam Trap (Royles) . 3 . : ° : ~ 312 
358. Lancaster Bucket Type Steam Trap (Lancaster Ge Tones) , . 5 : . 313 
359. Simplicity Steam Trap (Key Engineering Co.) ; ; ; : ‘ ; . 314 
360. Ordinary Steam Dryer oy and Tonge) . : : : : . 314 
361. Lancaster ‘‘ Central Tube ’’ Steam Dryer (Lancaster and ‘Tones : . A » 3b 
362 a,6. Roller Bearing (Ransome and Marles) . : ; ; : ; : ole 
363. Friction Clutch (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.)  . : ; : : 2 aie 
364. Construction of Friction Clutch (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co ) : , ; . 816 


365. Automatic Slip Winch (George Taylor, Ltd.) ; : : : ‘ ‘ . 316 


D Soe a 
ea te, ae ¥a\ 
+ a, 


Casciato ett Sip 


‘ae oer 


A tes. > al; ‘ 
ale 7 


Page 27. 


Page 47. 


Page 47. 


Page 52. 


Page 53. 


Page 57. 


Page 168. 
Page 168. 


TR eee 


From line 2 read :— 


‘““The gas burners consist of iron slotted boxes lined with corrugated nickel alloy strips 
arranged one above the other in a vertical frame, and fabric may be threaded over the 
burners so that only the face or both face and back of the fabric is singed. This machine 
differs, however, from others in so far that in passing through the machine the fabric is 
subjected to hot air projected upon its surface, the hot air being obtained by forcing air through 
one or more hollow iron pipes around which are drawn the hot burnt gases from the singeing 
flames; drying cylinders are thus dispensed with, the products of combustion are blown from 
the fabric, and the air occluded between the fibres assists their combustion and the heat of 
this combustion is utilised. Further, immediately before passing through a singeing flame, 
the fibre is led over a slotted pipe in Communication with a vacuum pump, the loose fibres 
on the fabric are thus raised while dust, fluff and steam are drawn from the face of the fabric 
and the singeing is thereby made effective. With such a machine, a pre-mixed gas and air 
mixture (about 1 part gas and 63 parts air) is delivered to the singeing flames by means of 
a suitable Parex mixer and compressor. The gas consumption is about 1 cubic foot per 
15-30 yards of cotton fabric 40 in. wide.’’ 


Line 14, after ‘‘ guiding rollers ’’ read :— 


‘‘ being thereby subjected to alternate steaming and saturating.” 


Line 15 should read :— 
““the alkaline kier liquor which it contains may be raised and maintained at slightly over 
boiling point.” 


Lines 10 and 11 should read :— 
‘* Both scroll rollers rotate against the direction of travel of the fabric.”’ 


Fig. 46 should be assigned to William Birch Ltd. instead of to Mather and Platt. Also insert 
corresponding correction for Fig. 46 in List of Illustrations, p. ix. 


Fig. 53a. The description of this should read :— 
‘‘ Revolving Expander or Stretcher. (Geo. Taylor [Brassfounders] Ltd., Bolton.)”’ 


Line 20. -For ‘‘ indiarubber ’’ read ‘‘ canvas.’’ 


’ 


Line 33. For ‘‘ leaves ’’ read ‘* enters.”’ 


TEXTILE MACHINERY. 


TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING 
AND FINISHING MACHINERY 


PART I 
FABRICS 


CHAPTER I 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, 
PRINTING AND FINISHING 


It is necessary to cleanse thoroughly all fabrics before dyeing and finishing and 
in most instances it is essential that they should be bleached. A good scouring may 
be sufficient for fabrics which will be dyed in black, brown or other dark shades, but 
clear bright shades can only be produced by printing or dyeing perfectly white material. 
Cleansing and bleaching operations are therefore of considerable importance. 

Machinery for cleansing cotton piece goods is more varied and important than 
that for woollen fabrics since animal fibres are dyed and cleansed to a greater extent 
than cotton before weaving. / 

The most common impurities in grey cotton piece goods are starches, mineral, 
nitrogenous and fatty substances, and these are almost entirely removed by processes 
of scouring and kiering. The natural yellow colouring matter in cotton is not removed 
by these processes, but is afterwards destroyed by the well-known process of bleaching, 
in which chlorine or other bleaching liquors are used. Whenever possible, these treat- 
ments are effected on fabric in rope form, since the treatment may then be carried 
out by means of machines of comparatively simple construction and at high speed. 
In other instances, fabric is treated in open width. Generally, fabric is less damaged 
by displacement of its weft and warp threads and is more evenly penetrated by the 
treating liquors when dealt with in open width. 

The sequence of treatments to which cotton fabric is subjected after singeing and 
during kiering and bleaching differs considerably in various works and also because of 
the different styles in which the fabric may ultimately be finished. Generally, how- 
ever, a normal cleansing treatment comprises singeing, wetting-out with water, steep- 
ing in a wet state for several hours, washing in water, saturation with an alkaline solu- 
tion, kiering with numerous operations of souring and washing, then bleaching, washing 
and drying. For these various operations the numerous types of machines necessary 
include sewing machines, washing machines, bleaching apparatus, kiers for fabric 
in open width and rope form, mangles for fabric in open width, squeezing mangles for 
fabric in rope form, scutchers for opening fabric from rope form to fabric in open width, 
plaiting apparatus and drying cylinders. These will now be considered. Woven 
lengths of fabric as delivered to bleachers and dyers are usually from 50 to 150 yards 
long and from 20 to 70 inches wide and the first stage in their treatment generally 
consists of stamping each piece by hand with a “ process number ” and then sewing 
the pieces end to end. 

SEWING MACHINES 


Machines suitable for sewing piece goods end to end may be fixed and power- 


driven, or they may be portable and hand, foot or electrically driven. Fig. 1 shows 
2 17 


18 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


a typical rotary sewing machine (William Birch) on a portable tripod stand. Driving 
power is obtained by means of a foot lever and crank motion attached to a lower fly- 
wheel, the drive to the upper sewing mechanism being effected by a belt or rope which 
passes around a pulley fixed to the lower flywheel, 
or, alternatively, the machine is driven by means of 4 
the small electric motor (about $ h.p.) shown. | | 

Machines for thick and heavy woollen fabrics | 
have a specially heavy flywheel and strengthened 
gearing. 

In the scouring and milling of woollen fabrics it 


Fic. 1.—PortTaBLE SEWING MACHINE Fic. 2.—SEwine MacuInE (WILLIAM BriRc#). 
(WiLL1AM BIRCH). 


is frequently necessary to sew the selvedges of the fabric together, the face of the 
fabric being inside the tubular fabric thus formed and thereby protected. For this 
purpose a sewing machine as shown in Fig. 2 is more suitable than the one described 
above, the cylindrical body giving more support to the fabric being sewn. 

Sewing machines must be capable of stitching both wet and dry fabrics and it is 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 19 


also desirable that the length of stitch may be varied. Five typical stitches varying 
from fine to coarse are shown in Fig. 3 and their construction in Fig. 4. Such a form 
of stitch is capable of withstanding much pressure and tension, but it has the further 
advantage that a stitching across a fabric may be easily undone by withdrawing the 
end A in the direction indicated. Soft spun cotton yarns are used for sewing, since 
these are less likely to damage the sewn fabrics during their subsequent treatment. 


Fic. 3.—SEwine SrircHEes (WILLIAM Birc#). 


SINGEING MACHINES 


Singeing machines are of considerable importance, since almost all cotton piece 
goods are singed for the purpose of removing the nap and those loose fibres which 
would impair the finish and pleasing appearance of the finished fabric. Fabrics are 
generally singed on the face side only, although both sides are singed in special 
cases. 

In the earliest singeing machines, fabric was passed over a red-hot metal (copper) 
plate, but though this method is still largely used, its importance is equalled by a 
method in which fabric is singed by passage through a gas flame. Some machines 
incorporate both methods. 


Thread below the fabric is indicated 
by dotted /ines. 


Fig. 4.—ConstTRUCTION OF SEWING STITCHES. 


Plate Singeing Machines.—Fig. 5 shows a two-plate singeing machine (Mather and 
Platt) the construction of which is further indicated by Figs. 6 and 7. In an ordinary 
plate singeing machine, fabric after drying by passage over a few drying cylinders 
enters the machine in open width at a high speed, and in passing through the machine 
is pressed upon one or more circular red-hot copper plates by means of suitably 
placed metal guide rollers. The emerging fabric is hot and, being liable to take fire, 
it is immediately led in open width through a steam chamber or through a water 
trough, both being shown in Fig. 6. The singe plate is made of thick copper (Fig. 8) 
and is generally heated by means of burning coal or gas (Fig. 9), but several advantages 
are claimed for heating by means of liquid fuel—naphtha—a system which has been 
successfully used for heating plates up to 110 inches wide. 


Fic. 5.—Two-PLatEe SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


: Ko 


HAN i : 


AANUAANESANUANANTANRANAANE EE EANANANRE NENA AN URUNNS SSIES AA ANAS ANANAAAA NIAAA ARAN 


Fic. 6.—CoNsTRUCTION OF A TWO-PLATE SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


20 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 21 


It will be readily seen that the passage of fabric over a limited portion of the singe 
plate is likely to produce uneven heating and wear which would result in uneven 
singeing of the fabric (for example, burnt selvedges) and short life of the plate. For 
this reason the machine (Fig. 7) is fitted with a traverse motion such that the line of 


Fic. 7.—TRAVERSE MoTION oF Two-PLaTE SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


contact of the fabric with the plate is continuously varied. The traverse motion is 
actuated by means of a system of levers driven by the eccentric shown in Fig. 7. 
The dimensions of a typical copper plate are shown in Fig. 8. 
The advantages claimed for oil firing 
are :— 


1. Keener and more perfect singeing 
because the plates may be heated more 
intensely and uniformly. 

2. Saving of time and fuel in raising | 
the cold plate to red heat. 

3. Cleanliness and saving of labour, le 
since no ashes require removal. a 


The machine shown in Fig. 5 will deal Fre. 8.—Srexre Pra 
with fabric at the rate of 100 yards per 


minute, but speeds of 200 yards may be obtained if desired. For high speeds, pre- 
drying of the fabric is essential. 


Fig. 9 shows a Selas plate singeing machine heated with gas. 
Gas Flame Singeing Machines.—A machine (Mather and Platt) of this type in which 


TE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fic. 10.—Four-BURNER GAS FLAME SINGEING MacHINE (MATHER AND Parr). 
22 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 23 


fabric is singed by passage through four gas flames each emerging from a longitudinal 
slit in a gas pipe arranged parallel to the weft of the fabric is shown in Fig. 10. Fabric 
enters the machine over the wooden tension rails and drying cylinder shown in the 
top left-hand corner, passes successively through the four gas flames and over the 
wooden draw drum driven by the friction disc drive ' 

shown in the left-hand corner. A plaiting apparatus Sl 
(right-hand top corner) is also attached to the 
machine. Although four gas burners are supplied | 
with this machine, any less number may be supplied 
or utilised. The number of sides of the fabric 
singed is determined by the method of threading 
the fabric between the gas burners. 

Control of the burning gas is of considerable 
importance, since cotton fabric is liable to catch 
fire easily. In some machines the burner may take 
the form of a simple iron pipe suitably perforated 
along its length, but in the machine described here 
a more accurate control is obtained by a specially 
designed burner as shown in Fig. 11. The burner 
itself is formed of three separate parts and is of 
the slot type, such that the width of opening of the = Fie. 11.—F ame Sincerna Burner 
slot can be varied, thus enabling the same burner Sivan coe ite age 
to be used for gases having different calorific values. Above the burner slot is a water- 
cooled exhaust chamber connected to an exhaust fan, the cooling being necessary for 
prevention of overheating of the exhaust chamber. As the fabric passes between 
the slot burner and the exhaust chamber, the flame is drawn directly into the fabric, 


2 iat 
WOAAAUAAANNAANS 


Si 


“ile \ 


Fic. 12.—Two-BuRNER GAs FLAME SINGEING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


which is thus efficiently singed, and the gases of combustion are then drawn through 
the exhaust chamber and led away from the machine. The length of the flame is 
regulated by means of internal sliding pistons in the slotted pipe. 

In Fig. 10 the exhaust fan, which is in communication with the four exhaustion 


24 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


chambers of the machine, is shown on the top of the machine and the air blower for 
supplying air for combustion is shown in the left-hand bottom corner. 

A sectional view of a two-burner gas flame singeing machine is shown in Fig. 12. 

A Selas gas burner such as would be supplied with the four-burner singeing machine 
shown in Fig. 13 is shown in Figs. 14 and 15, and is considerably different in con- 
struction from that referred to above. This burner is divided into a number of separate 
sections each having a cross-section as shown in Fig. 15, the entry of gas to each being 
controlled by the valves as shown in Fig. 14. The length of singeing flame and its 
position along the length of the burner may thus be controlled by means of the valves. 
As seen from Fig. 15, each section of the burner is formed of two chambers, gas being 
supplied to the lower chambers of all the sections. In each section, gas passing from 
the lower chamber to the upper chamber, D, and thence to the burning slot, A, is con- 
trolled by the spindle valve, C, B, E. Under working conditions this type of burner 
gives a very steady uniform singeing flame. 


Fic. 13.—FouR-BURNER GAS FLAME SINGEING MACHINE (SELAS GAS AND ENGINEERING CoO.). 


In all cases a suitable mixture of gas and air is supplied to the slot burner, but 
whereas this mixture may be prepared and compressed apart from the singeing machine, 
it may also be formed by allowing separate currents of compressed gas and air to mix 
immediately before entrance to the slot burner. 

When the delivery of a compressed and prepared mixture of gas and air to singeing 
burners is required, such a compressor as that shown in Fig. 16 may be used. This 
compressor is capable of delivering a uniform mixture of air and gas at constant pres- 
sure independently of the variations in the amount of the mixture being used. The 
action of this compressor is shown in Fig. 17. Gas brought automatically to atmo- 
spheric pressure by means of the governor, H, and air, also at atmospheric pressure, 
are connected to the mixing chamber, E. By means of the regulating stud, K (the 
automatic mixing valve in Fig. 16), ports admitting air and gas are controlled so that 
the proportion of air and gas may be altered as desired. The compressor fan, Z, 
running at a constant speed, draws the mixture from the mixing chamber, E, and 
sends it forward to the singeing burners. The amount of mixed air and gas passing 


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25 


26 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


forward to the compressor is partly controlled by the butterfly valve, N, but more 
especially by a port from the mixing chamber, A, which is automatically operated by 
a spindle attached to a diaphragm, C, sensitive to changes of pressure. 

It will be noticed that the fan is mounted eccentrically within the compressor 
chamber, U. The fan consists of a number of blades free to move in slots of a drum, 
W. As the fan rotates the blades in the lower part of the compressor chamber are 
thrown outwards by centrifugal force and impel the gas mixture forward, but when the 
blades approach the upper part of the compressor chamber they recede, thus maintain- 
ing the flow of mixture as shown by the arrows. 

The general action of the compressor is as follows. The valve controlling the 
entrance of gas is opened and the compressor started. After a few minutes the pilot 


Fic. 17.—SEcTION oF Gas COMPRESSOR (SELAS GAS AND ENGINEERING CO.). 


gas jet is lighted and the mixture of gas and air regulated by K until it is of the type 
desired. The mixture then passes through the compressor and is delivered to the 
burners at a pressure determined by the pressure governor, T, whose action depends 
on a valve acting from the diaphragm, 8. This governor limits the pressure developed 
by the compressor when the consumption of the gas mixture decreases. When the 
pressure increases above that desired and set by the valve attached to the diaphragm, 
S, the mixture passes back to the back pressure valve body, M, thereby closing valve 
N until the pressure falls to its normal amount. When the machine is given reason- 
able attention it thus supplies a uniform mixture of gas and air under a constant 
pressure, while the consumption of the mixture may vary widely. 

Electrically heated singeing plates are employed in America, but it is doubtful 
if this method has ever found technical application in England. Some American 
machines contain eight gas burners, but no great advantage appears to be gained by 
the use of this large number. 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 27 


Another type of gas singeing machine (Ernest Turner) is shown in Fig. 18. The 
gas burners consist of iron slotted horizontal pipes arranged one above the other on a 
vertical frame, and fabric may be threaded over the burners so that only the face or 
both face and back of the fabric is singed. This machine differs, however, from 
others in so far that in passing through the machine the fabric passes in contact with 


Fic. 18.—Gas FLamMEe SINGEING MacHINE (ERNEST TURNER AND CO.). 


one or more hollow iron pipes through which are drawn the hot burnt gases from the 
singeing flames; drying cylinders are thus dispensed with. Further, immediately 
before passing through a singeing flame, the fabric is led over a slotted pipe in com- 
munication with a vacuum pump; the loose fibres on the fabric are thus raised and the 
Singeing is thereby made effective. With such a machine, a pre-mixed gas and air 
mixture (about 1 part gas and 14 parts air) is delivered to the singeing flames by 


28 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


means of a suitable compressor. The gas consumption is about 1 cubic foot per 15 
yards of cotton fabric 40 inches wide. 

Immediately after passage through singeing apparatus, fabric is passed through 
some form of water mangle (a suitable mangle is shown in Fig. 6) and the wetted out 
fabric piled in a pit or cistern and allowed to lie for a few hours. 

Automatic Piling Machinery.—In many works fabric in rope form is piled into stacks 
or cisterns by boy labour, but mechanical automatic piling apparatus is available. 
Fig. 19 shows the general arrangement of a machine for piling fabric in rope form. 
It consists of an overhead winch with attached pot eyes, the winch being capable of 
a forwards and backwards motion along an ovérhead track while the guiding pot eyes 


Fie. 19.—Avutomatic KirrR Prrer (A. EDMESTON AND Sons). 


through which the fabric passes periodically traverse the width of the winch. Two 
traversing pot eyes are shown in the machine in Fig. 19. The drive to such an 
automatic piling apparatus is preferably obtained through a small electric motor, but 
it is frequently obtained from a shaft by means of a belt. This machine requires 
about 2 h.p. 


WASHING, SQUEEZING AND IMPREGNATING MACHINES 


Machines of this type do not greatly differ in the chief principles of their construc- 
tion, since they all consist of a trough for holding water or other liquor above which 
are mounted two wooden or metal squeezing rollers (usually termed bowls by cotton 
workers), one, or less frequently both, rollers being driven. Such machines may 
obviously be used for both washing and impregnating fabric with suitable liquids. It 
is usual to pass fabric in rope form through these machines in a spiral fashion, and 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 29 


frequently two fabrics are treated simultaneously as shown in Fig. 21; by this arrange- 
ment the fabric is successively squeezed and treated with a liquor several times instead 
of once, as it would be were the fabric to pass directly between the bowls. The 
impregnation of the fabric by the liquor in the trough is thus rendered more thorough. 

Roller Washing Machine.—The machine (Lang Bridge) shown in Fig. 20 is suitable 
for washing cloth in the rope state after any of the several treatments to which it is 
subjected during bleaching. It consists of two hard wood (beech or sycamore) bowls 
placed over a wooden tank containing water or other washing liquor. The lower bowl 
is driven by means of a friction clutch and pulley, clearly shown on the right hand 


——— 


Fic. 20.—RoLLER WASHING MAcHINE (LANG BRIDGE). 


of the machine, and the pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of the weighted 
levers fitted to the top of the machine over the bowls. The bearings of the bowls are 
so designed that either bowl may be removed independently of the other—an impor- 
tant feature, since with machines of this type it is frequently necessary to remove 
the bowls and correct uneven wear by skimming them up in a lathe. 

Two freely rotating wood guide rollers are provided in the tank and the fabric 
is threaded up spirally around these rollers and between the two bowls (see Fig. 21), 
being guided and prevented from becoming entangled by means of the peg rail in front 
of the machine. The machine is capable of dealing with two ropes of fabric, one rope 
entering on each side through the attached porcelain pot eye and both ropes leaving 
the machine after about four passages (nips) between the bowls; usually the emerging 


30 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


fabrics will be drawn from the machine by means of a winch or plaiting apparatus. 
A good flow of water is maintained in the wooden tank so that the fabric receives a 
thorough washing. 

In the washing machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 21 and similar in design 
to the machine described above, the bowls are diagonally disposed. This arrange- 
ment of the bowls increases the efficiency of the “nip.” Further, the water tank is 
divided into three portions by wood partitions at right angles to the length of the 
bowls. The incoming water from pipe C is delivered to the central compartment, 
and flows outwards to the two outer compartments; the purest water is thus present 
where the fabric leaves the machine. A separate pulley is sometimes provided on 
the other end of the driven bowl so that two speeds may be used. Sometimes a 
traversing motion is given to one bowl so as to obtain uniform wear. 


~\ 
> 


SS 


{ee 


Fic. 21.—RoLLteER WaAsHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Washing machines of the type described above have bowls up to 2 feet in diameter 
and 8 feet wide; they can treat 200 yards of fabric per minute. 

Fabric passing through the above machine is subject to considerable tension, and 
for fragile fabrics this may be undesirable. Hence slack washing machines are avail- 
able by means of which fabric is well washed with a minimum of tension and under 
such adjustable pressure as may be suitable. 

Slack Washing Machine.-—The machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 22 com- 
prises two hard wood bowls arranged diagonally for efficiency of washing, the lower 
bowl being driven through a friction clutch pulley. Pressure on the bowls is removed 
and also obtained by means of the long lever shown, this being suitably weighted in 
the usual manner. ‘The lower bowl rotates in a small wooden trough containing water 
or other liquid. Either bowl can be removed from the side frames independently of 
the other. Underneath the whole machine is a large wooden tank through which flows 
a good current of washing water. Fabric enters the machine in rope form through a 
pot eye, passes between the bowls, downwards over a driven roller into the washing tank, 
along the bottom of the latter, around a guiding wooden rail, upwards over a freely 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 31 


rotating wooden roller, through the nip and away from the machine. The fabric is 
initially threaded through the machine so that some 10 to 20 yards of slack fabric lie 


Fic. 22.—Si~ack WasHING MAcHINE (MATHER AND P1aTT). 


along the bottom of the washing tank, and this form of threading is repeated spirally. 
The small wooden box under the lower bowl is for the purpose of collecting dirty water 


32 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


squeezed out in the nip and thus prevents excessive fouling of the water in the main 
washing tank. 


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Fic. 23.—Siack WASHING MACHINE (LANG BRIDGE). 


A slightly different design of slack washing machine (Lang Bridge) is shown in 
Fig. 23. In this machine the entering fabric passes through the nip and is drawn 
downwards by a driven winch instead of a roller, and the pressure on the bowls may 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 33 


be diminished in a more positive manner. A wooden guiding peg rail is shown in the 
bottom of the washing tank and no auxiliary tank is employed under the lower 
bowl. 

Square Beater Washing Machine.—Another machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 
~ which is suitable for washing fabrics in rope form very thoroughly is shown in Fig. 24. 
It contains two sycamore bowls under pressure regulated by the weighted levers shown 
on the top of each side frame. A wooden tank is situated under the machine and 
contains a large square wooden beater (the edges are covered with sheet copper) driven 
by a friction clutch pulley; a freely rotating wood winch is also fixed at one end of the 
tank. A spur wheel attached to one end of the square beater drives the lower wooden 
bowl (in some machines the lower bowl is driven through a friction clutch and the 
square beater by a spur wheel) so that these rotate in opposite directions. 


Fic. 24.—SquareE BreaTeER WaSHING MACHINE (Sir J. Farmer, Norton AND CoO.). 


The side frames of the machine are clearly shown and indicate how either bowl 
may be removed independently of the other. 

Fabric enters through the pot eye close to the winch, passes under the winch and 
the square beater, upwards through the nip, around the winch and is thus spirally 
threaded through the machine, finally leaving through the pot eye shown close to one 
end of the top bowl. 

Since the square beater rotates in a direction opposite to that of the lower bowl, 
it rotates against the fabric and tends to open it, so that the fabric receives a thorough 
washing. 

The method of threading a similar machine (Mather and Platt) involving an extra 
external winch is shown in Fig. 25. 

Squeezing Machine-—The machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 26 is very 
largely used for squeezing excess of liquor from fabrics. It consists essentially of two 
bowls maintained under pressure obtained by means of compound levers and weights, 
the lower bowl being driven by a pulley operating through a friction clutch. In 
operation, two fabrics are drawn separately in rope form through the two pot eyes, 


34 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


then squeezed between the bowls and probably led upwards and over a driven wooden 
winch and piled into a kier or otherwise. 

The bowls may be made of compressed cocoa-nut fibre or cotton or of beech, syca- 
more or brass, and the framing of the machine is designed so that either bowl can be 
removed independently of the other. It is advantageous for the bowls to run on ball 
bearings. Pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of the compound levers and 
weights shown. This type of leverage is better shown in Fig. 28. The machine is also 
fitted with a traverse motion supplied by a cam to the shaft in front of the machine 
which carries the two pot eyes; uneven wear of the bowls is thus avoided or reduced. 


Fic. 25.—SquaRE BEATER WasHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


As shown with two pot eyes, the machine is capable of dealing with two ropes of 
fabric simultaneously at any speed up to 220 yards per minute. 

It is usual to provide squeezing machines of this type with a water box as shown 
in Fig. 26. This box is generally of wood and contains a few freely-rotating wooden 
guide rollers. Water or any other liquor may be put in the box for the purpose of 
impregnating the fabric, which will then be drawn through the box over and under the 
rollers. 

Some squeezing machines contain rollers which are not cylindrical but are V-shaped, 
as shown in Fig. 27, with the object of producing a better nip on the fabric in rope 
form passing between them. 

The pressure between the bowls in mangles and, as will be seen later, also in 


Fic. 26.—SQuEEzING MACHINE (MATHER anpD PLATT). 


Fic. 27.—V-sQUEEZING ROLLERS. 


C D 


Fic. 28.—LEVERED PRESSURE SySTEM FOR MANGLES. 


35 


36 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


calenders, is generally obtained by means of a system of compound levers and weights. 
The necessary arrangements involved in this construction are illustrated diagram- 
matically in Fig. 28 and they are shown in many of the machines illustrated (see 
Figs. 55, 195, 200). Mand N are shafts of two bowls in contact, N being supported 
on a fixed bearing and M being pressed downwards by the V-bearing attached to the 
vertical rod, L having a screw thread on its upper part; the rod L also passes through 
the screwed collar, P, which can swivel about a horizontal axis in the horizontal arm, K. 
The horizontal arm, K, is pivoted at A, and carries a vertical rod, G, pivoted at B and 
C, the horizontal arm, F,, carrying weights, W, and being pivoted at D. The pressure 
on the bowls is thus dependent on the weight, W. Owing to the construction of the 
side frames of a mangle, the range of motion of W about the pivot, D, is limited, 
v.e., the weight, W, can gener- 
ally rise only a_ limited 
amount. By means of the 
hand-wheel, H, however, the 
rod L may be screwed up- 
wards or downwards within 
the collar, P, and the position 
oT pp le of the weights, W, varied. 


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SE Ih EE (Ee. : S 
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Trough Follee Under these conditions, while 
with Foller 

Bearings. the bowls may be forced 
apart, the pressure between 
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movement of the weight, W ; 


: the bowls thus allow the 


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_.._/otal aes mel! meer passage of fabric containing 
Site Elevation thick seams or knots without 
damage. 


Fic. 29.—RoituerR WasHina MacHINE FOR FRAGILE FABRICS 2 ee 
(MATHER AND PLart). Sometimes, however, it is 


desirable to maintain the 
bowls under a dead-set pressure. For this purpose, mangles are generally provided 
with dead-set pins; these pins are merely used for fixing the arm, K, rigidly to the 
side frame of the machine, and the pressure on the bowls may then be determined 
directly by screwing the rod L upwards or downwards in the collar, P. 

Although mangles fitted with levered pressure seldom damage fabrics passing 
through them, they are not sufficiently elastic for squeezing fabrics containing a con- 
siderable proportion of artificial silk or for very delicate fabrics. This disadvantage 
is overcome by replacing levered pressure by spring pressure in the manner indicated 
in Fig. 29. In the machine shown (Mather and Platt), the pressure on the bowls is 
obtained by means of two springs attached to each side frame, a curved pivot arm 
being shown adjacent to the right-hand spring. These springs thus allow the 
pressure to be varied from any maximum amount to zero, and, further, the bowls 
are fitted with roller bearings. When fabric containing a knot passes between the 


Fic. 30.—HicH Pressure Kier (MATHER AND PLATT). 


37 


38 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


bowls, the upper bow] lifts to accommodate the knot, but it returns with a much less 
bump than is the case with bowls fitted with levered pressure. This type of mangle 
is particularly suitable for fragile fabrics. 

Kiers.—Following singeing and washing, the fabric will probably be padded with 
milk of lime in a roller or similar squeezing machine and then plaited down compactly 
and evenly in a kier and given a so-called lime boil. Kiers are constructed to work 
at ordinary or high pressure, the higher the pressure the more drastic the treatment. 


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Fic. 31.—Srction or High PRESSURE KIER (MATHER AND PLATT) 


Low Pressure Kiers——The general construction of a low pressure kier is similar to 
that of the kier (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 30 (see also page 219 and Fig. 230), 
except that it has an open top or a loosely fitting cover. The kier itself is made of 
riveted mild steel plates and contains a false or perforated bottom, and is built to 
hold } to 4 tons of fabric. In operation, hot alkaline lye (lime water or aqueous solu- 
tions of caustic soda and soda ash) is continuously circulated through the fabric for 
several hours, the boiling liquor being delivered to the top of the kier, sprayed umbrella 
fashion over the top of the fabric and, after percolation through the fabric, it is 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 39 


withdrawn at the bottom of the kier and re-delivered to the top. The circulation and 
heating of the liquor are maintained by means of a centrifugal pump and the multi- 
tubular heater as shown in Fig. 30 or by a steam injector as shown in Fig. 32. Fig. 31 
shows the section of a high pressure kier with multitubular heater (Mather and Platt). 

Generally it is preferable to employ a pump and separate heater, since there is 
greater certainty about their action and no dilution of the alkaline liquor occurs as 
is the case when a steam injector is used. 

High Pressure Kiers.—High pressure kiers are usually built capable of treating 2 
to 4 tons of fabric at 40 lb. pressure, but in some instances a pressure of 60 lb. per 
square inch is desired. The kier (Mather and Platt) Fig. 30 is shown fitted with circu- 
lating pump and multitubular heater, the details of its construction being further shown 
in the sectional view, Fig. 31. It is, of course, 
necessary to provide high pressure kiers with safety To Top of Kier 
valves and a cover which can be bolted down so as 
to withstand the pressure inside the kier. Fig. 31 
clearly shows the perforated annular device for 
providing an umbrella spray of liquor over the 
fabric. The multitubular heater is of the usual type 
in which liquor passes through a number of vertical 
steel tubes surrounded by steam under pressure. 

High pressure kiers may be fitted with steam jep 
injectors instead of multitubular heaters and pumps, //quor - 
but they are less efficient on account of the consider- 
able dilution of the alkaline liquor which occurs. <A 
typical steam injector is shown in Fig. 32. 

Mather Kier.—Another type of kier, known as 
the Mather kier (Mather and Platt), is shown in 
Figs. 33, 34 and 35. This is horizontal and contains 
two sheet iron wagons, A and B, which may be filled 
with fabric already saturated with an alkaline liquor 
outside the kier and then pushed into it along guide 
rails fitted to the base of the kier. The wagons are 
open at the top and perforated at the bottom and 
fit the kier closely as shown in Figs. 34 and 35. 
One kier holds one or two wagons, and when these are 
inside, the kier is closed by lowering a wedge-shaped door, C, thus sealing the open 
front of the kier. Each wagon contains, at its centre, a vertical perforated iron pipe, 
and when the wagon is in position in the kier the lower end of the perforated pipe 
makes a tight connection with a telescopic spring joint fixed to the bottom of the kier 
and is thus connected to the pump, G, and supply of hot circulating alkaline liquor. 
Immediately above the pipe in the wagon is a hot liquor umbrella spraying device, 
H and K, attached to the top of the kier. It is thus evident that an alkaline liquor 
can be circulated downwards from the top of the kier upon the fabric in the wagon, 
percolating through the fabric, passing through the perforated bottom of the wagon, 
withdrawn from the bottom of the kier and re-delivered to the umbrella spray, and 
alternatively the circulation may be reversed such that the liquor is forced upwards 
through the fabric. After any desired period, the circulation can be stopped, the kier 

door raised mechanically by the gearing shown in Fig. 33 and the wagons run out and 


CEI LL ELITES, 
ACAts 


Fic. 32.—Sream InNgEcTOR (MATHER 
AND PLATT). 


40 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


replaced by other wagons containing fabric prepared for treatment. This type of kier 
is such that it can be emptied, filled and restarted within a few minutes. 

The circulation of liquor is maintained by a centrifugal pump, G, shown in Fig. 34, 
the liquor being heated by passage through the multitubular heater, shown attached 


Fic. 33.—MatTHER Kier (MATHER AND PuatTT). 


to the pump in Fig. 33. Alternatively, the circulating liquor may be heated by 
means of direct steam passing through perforated pipes and also indirectly by means 
of a closed steam coil, both being placed in the bottom of the kier as shown in Fig. 35. 

Kiers of the above type are made to hold from 1} to 3} tons of fabric and the. 
emptying of the largest can be effected within ten minutes. 


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Fic. 35.—Cross Section or MatHer Krier (MaTHEeR AND PLATT). 
Al 


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TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Jefferson-Walker Kier—A kier of an entirely different construction from those 
previously described and known as a Jefferson-Walker kier (Samuel Walker and 


COUPLE WATER SUPPLY 
FOR WASHING OFF 


POP SAFETY VALVE TO pis 
BLOW-OFF AT 25LB5/O" > Jpn 
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Fic. 36.—JEFFERSON-WALKER KIER (S. WALKER AND SONS). 


Sons) is shown in Fig. 36. The method of working this kier is such that the materials 


within it are subjected to periodic. injections of an alkaline liquor at any desired 
temperature and pressure. The kier itself is composed of steel plates riveted together 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 43 


in the usual manner, but its characteristic features are found in the devices whereby 
the circulation of liquor is controlled. 

The kier is operated as follows. Cotton fabric in rope form is piled evenly within 
the kier and the top cover then fastened down. An alkaline liquor is allowed to flow 
into the kier through the liquor supply pipe, 7, the air in the fabric being thereby 
displaced upwards. When the liquor reaches the level of the test valve, 3, the supply 
of liquor is cut off by closing valve 1. Steam valves, 4 and 5, are then opened and 
steam passes downwards to the inspirator (injector), 6, thereby drawing liquor from 
the kier and forcing it up pipe 7 to the top of the kier and spraying it through the 


Fic. 37.—AvutTomatic PineR FoR Kiers (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND CoO.). 


spreader, 10. After a short time, steam valve 5 being open, the pressure in the kier 
rises to a desired amount, as shown by the steam pressure gauge, and valve 5 is then 
closed and valves 12 and 13 are opened. During the subsequent boiling, steam is 
thus supplied to the injector through the automatic controlling device, 13. This 
device consists of a valve operated by an electric motor, the valve being successively 
opened for 60 seconds and closed 30 seconds. In this manner, a succession of inter- 
mittent injections of boiling liquor (about 170 gallons at the pressure originally fixed) 
into the top of the kier occurs, and at the same time the fabric within the kier auto- 
matically gently rises and falls. The “‘ breathing” (rising and falling) of the fabric 
tends to reduce the possibility of easy liquor channels within the piled fabric being 
formed. 


AA, TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Once the timing device has been accurately set it demands no further attention 
during successive kierings and the working of the kier proceeds uniformly and 
satisfactorily. 


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Fic. 38.—AuvuToMaATic PILER ATTACHED TO A Kier (Sir J. Farmer, Norton AND CoO.), 


Although it is usual to use boys for piling fabric into kiers, an automatic kier 
piling device is now available and is shown in Figs. 37 and 38. The piler essentially 
consists of a funnel with attached piling mechanism or chute which are together 


: 
7 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS AS 


mounted on an overhead runway and therefore easily transferable from one kier to 
another. When in position, the piler rests on the central manhole of the kier with the 
distributing chute extending down into the kier. ‘The top of the funnel through which 
the fabric enters is connected by means of flexible hose to a by-pass from the liquor 
circulating pipe of the kier. 

In operation, cloth is fed into the receiving funnel of the piler by means of a winch 
and is washed downwards through the funnel and outwards through the chute, being 
simultaneously thoroughly wetted with kier liquor. 

The whole of the mechanism is mounted on a large worm wheel driven by a worm 
direct from the motor and the chute being mounted on the worm wheel revolves with 
it in a circular path. At the same time, the chute derives a swinging motion from a 
quadrant and pinion inside the machine and swings in an arc of 180 degrees. This 
motion is continuously varied by means of a pair of cams which accelerate it as the 
chute nears the centre of the kier and retards the motion as the chute approaches 
the walls of the kier. Simultaneously the chute is alternately lengthened and short- 
ened by means of a sliding motion actuated by another quadrant and pinion arrange- 
ment mounted on the underside of the worm wheel which operates a small block chain 
and sprockets. Thus, through the combination of the rotating worm wheel, the 
swinging of the delivery chute through an arc of 180 degrees and the sliding or tele- 
scopic motion of the chute, the mouth of the chute follows the path of a true logarithmic 
curve. The alternate accelerating and decelerating travel of the chute is in direct 
proportion to the area required to be covered with cloth and the fabric is thus piled 
up evenly and uniformly within the kier. 

This automatic piler has the further advantage that it ensures even wetting out 
of the fabric during its passage into the kier. 

Consideration will now be given to kiers capable of treating fabrics in open width. 

Huillard Open Width Kier.—This kier (Mather and Platt) is rectangular in form and 
provided with a cover for bolting down on the top; circulation and heating of the 
liquor are obtained by means of a centrifugal pump and a multitubular heater. A 
sectional view of the kier is shown in Fig. 39, and it will be noticed that the kier is 
divided into three compartments by means of two vertical perforated division plates. 
Fabric is plaited down in open width in the middle compartment by means of a winch 
and a light cover screwed down on top to prevent the fabric rising during the subse- 
quent treatment. A boiling alkaline liquor is then circulated from one outer com- 
partment, through the perforated division plate and the fabric, outwards into the 
other outer compartment and back to the pump and heater. Occasionally the 
direction of the flow of the liquor through the kier and fabric is reversed by means 
of suitable control valves. 

Kiers of the Huillard type are made to hold up to 23 tons of fabric, and the boiling 
is carried out at about 15 lb. per square inch pressure. 

Jackson Open Width Kier—An entirely novel and successful method for kiering 
fabrics has been devised (Jackson and Brother) by which it is possible to thoroughly 
“ bottom ” (cleanse) about 4000 yards of fabric in open width within two hours. 

The kier shown in Fig. 40 comprises a circular sheet steel chamber capable of 
withstanding an internal working pressure of about 60 lb. per square inch. An iron 
framework which may be run in and out of the kier on guide rails essentially consists 
of three rollers shown in Fig. 40. The two outer steel batch rollers rotate in the 
fixed bearings at either end of the wagon, but the central hollow perforated steel 


46 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


cylinder of large diameter is carried on oscillating arms pivoted at either end of the 
base of the wagon. The arms have long open jaws at the top so that the drum is 
free to move upwards and also sideways by reason of the arms being pivoted. The 
batch rollers are both capable of being driven or running freely. The door to the 
front of the kier is swung on a jib crane. 


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Fic. 39.—HUvILLARD OPEN-wiptH KieR (MATHER AND PLATT). 
When the wagon is run into the kier, one or other of the batch rollers makes auto- 
matic connection with driving gear situated within and at the back of the kier, the | 
other roller rotating freely. 
In the preliminary operations, fabric is batched on one of the special batch rollers 
through an alkaline kier liquor by passage around a large perforated iron cylinder 
submerged in the alkaline liquor contained in the iron tank shown in Fig. 41. Since 


the batch is thus driven by friction with the submerged cylinder, a tight well-impreg- 
nated batch is obtained. The batch roller with its fabric in open width is then placed 
on one side of the wagon, one end of the fabric being threaded around the perforated 
drum and attached to the other empty batch roller, as shown in Fig. 40. The wagon 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS AT 


is then run in the kier and the door closed, whereby the rear end of the empty batch 
roller engages in the driving gear and the fabric is continuously drawn on to the empty 
batch roller. Meanwhile hot alkaline liquor is continuously sprayed in the usual 
manner from the top of the kier over the single thickness of fabric passing over the 
perforated drum. When the fabric has passed completely from the first roller to the 
other, the drive is automatically reversed and the fabric is re-wound on the first roller. 
The passage of the fabric in open width from one roller to the other and back again is 
continued until the cleansing treatment is complete. 


Fic. 40.—Jackson OpEN-wipTH KIER (JACKSON AND BROTHER), 


Edmeston Open Width Kier.—Another type of kier (Edmeston) suitable for treating 
fabrics continuously in open width is shown in Fig. 42 and consists of a tank built of 
cast iron plates and having two smaller outer compartments and one larger inner com- 
partment formed by vertical partitions which do not reach to the bottom of the tank, 
as shown in Fig. 42. Fabric passes through all compartments over and under a number 
of guiding rollers. Closed steam coils are provided in the bottom of the tank so that 
the alkaline kier liquor which it contains may be raised and maintained at boiling 
point. The tank is air-tight except for the slots provided for the entrance and exit 
of the fabric being treated, but the central compartment is completely air-tight, since 
the liquor in the outer compartments forms a seal for the entering and exit of the 
fabric. In general use, the difference between the height of the liquor in the central 
and outer compartments is about 4 feet and this represents the pressure under which 


48 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


the liquor in the central compartment is boiled ; when the supply of heat to the central 
compartment is reduced, the level of liquor in the outer compartments lowers, and 
when the heat supply is increased the level rises. The kier thus really consists of a 
steaming chamber made air-tight by means of two water seals. It is capable of treating 
30 to 40 yards of fabric per minute in open width or four times that quantity in rope 
form (four ropes are passed through the machine simultaneously) and requires about 


4 h.p. 


ao Ae 


Fic. 41.—ImprEGNATING DEVICE FoR JACKSON KIER (JACKSON AND BROTHER). 


BLEACHING MACHINERY 


Bleaching proper is usually effected by passing fabric in open width or more 
generally in rope form through a solution of bleaching powder or sodium hypochlorite, 
afterwards washing it for the removal of the spent bleaching liquor, then souring by 
passage through a weak acid solution, again washing, then opening out the fabric (if 
in rope form) by passage over a scutcher, mangling and finally drying over steam- 
heated drying cylinders or by means of hot air. 

During bleaching, the natural colouring matter present in cotton is destroyed and 
the fabric gradually assumes a pure white colour. 

The simplest method of treating fabric in rope form with bleaching liquor consists 
of running the fabric through a roller washing machine (see page 34) containing 
bleaching liquor and allowing it to lie in a loose pile for a suitable period and sub- 
sequently washing it in the same or a similar machine. Generally, good results are 


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49 


50 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


obtained by this method and it has the advantage that it allows the rapid treatment 


of large quantities of fabric. 
Another process for bleaching fabric in rope form, which is superior to the piling 


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ALA AR BS 
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ee 


method and is largely employed for the preparation of white goods, is carried out by 
means of the apparatus (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 43. This apparatus consists 
of an upper wood or stone tank in which fabric is plaited down and a lower tank or 
pit containing the bleaching liquor. A small centrifugal pump is provided for raising 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 51 


the bleaching liquor so that it may percolate by gravity through the fabric as shown 
and ultimately run back again into the lower tank. When the treatment with 
bleaching liquor is complete, the fabric may be washed, soured and again washed in 
the same machine, using the appropriate liquors, or preferably the fabric may be 
withdrawn over a winch and washed, soured and again washed in adjacent washing 
machines of the usual type. Alternatively, the apparatus shown in Fig. 43 may be 
used for chemicking and souring, washing being carried out in a separate machine. 
Bleaching in open width may be carried out on the wagon employed in the Jackson 
open-width kier, and Fig. 44 indicates how the process may be effected. The wagon, 
an improvement on that shown in Fig. 40, is placed in a wooden tank which is over 
and communicates with two lower tanks, one containing a bleaching liquor and the 


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Fic. 44.— BLEACHING APPARATUS FOR FaBrRic (JACKSON AND BROTHER). 


other a souring liquor. The fabric is run open width over the perforated drum from 
one batch roller to the other while it is sprayed with a bleaching or souring liquor 
raised from the lower tanks by means of the centrifugal pump, P. Afterwards the 
fabric is washed by passage through a washing-off range (see page 162 and Fig. 168), 
being finally mangled and batched on a roller at the delivery end of the washing 
machine. The fabric is then ready for drying and it is evident that under such treat- 
ment the bleaching is even and thorough. 


OPENING AND CREASE-REMOVING MACHINES 


After scouring, bleaching or other preparatory treatment of fabric in rope form 
it is necessary for the fabric to be opened out to full width before it can be dried; 
fabric dried in rope form would contain innumerable undesirable creases. Further, 


52 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


before drying it is desirable to free fabric in open width from all creases that it may 
contain, since these will be fixed by drying. Several devices are available for effecting 
these operations and they will now be considered. 

Scutcher.—This machine is used for converting fabric in rope form to full open 
width, a typical scutcher (Mather and Platt) being shown in Fig. 45. It consists of 
a brass revolving beater A, two rotating scroll rollers B and C, a pivoted guiding 
device, D, and a draw roller, E. Fabric approaches the scutcher through a distant 
pot eye and is partially opened by the beater revolving at high speed and this opening- 
out is completed as the fabric passes between the scroll rollers (see Fig. 54), whose 
surfaces are covered spirally with metal twigging of U section. Both scroll rollers 


DSiot Evevation . 


bdo Baaw Rovcaa. 


m Envrering Ena 


FEARS 


MA. 


LA 


Fic. 45.—ScutcHER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


rotate. in the direction of travel of the fabric. The guiding device consists of three 
parallel horizontal metal rods arranged so that they exert a binding action on the 
fabric passing between them, and since these rods form a rigid system which is 
centrally pivoted, any tendency for the fabric to pass otherwise than centrally through 
the scutcher is automatically corrected by the swivelling of the guiding device. In 
order that the scutcher may work efficiently, the distance between the pot eye and 
the beater should not be less than 10 yards. 

Curved Hxpanders.—Fig. 46 shows a three bar (William Birch) and Fig. 47 a five 
bar (Mather and Platt) curved expander, both pieces of apparatus being constructed 
on similar principles. The expanding device consists of curved shafts on which are 
mounted a number of brass or cast iron grooved bobbins which interlock with each 
other. The bobbins on each shaft rotate as a whole when fabric passes over them, 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 53 


this rotation being possible because the interlocking of the bobbins is somewhat loose. 
Referring to the three-bar expander, two of the shafts lie in one plane and the other 
above this plane, so that as the fabric passes under the first shaft, over the raised middle 


Fic. 46.—THREE-BAR CURVED EXPANDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fic. 47.—FIivE-BAR CURVED EXPANDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


shaft and away under the rear shaft, it is subjected to tension dependent on the 
relative displacement of the middle shaft. This displacement is regulated by means 
of the mitre wheels shown. The fabric is freed from creases by the rotation of the 
grooved bobbins, which expand laterally, the fabric passing over them. 


54 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The five-bar expander is somewhat more efficient in its action, the bind of the 
fabric on the bobbins being stronger because two raised shafts are present. The 
radius of curvature of the shafts is about 4 feet and the expanding force of the 
apparatus is dependent on this curvature. 

Swivel Opening and Guiding Rollers.—This apparatus (Mather and Platt) for 
opening or expanding fabric is shown in Fig. 48 attached to the front of a mangle 
and consists of a pivoted cast iron frame carrying a freely rotating straight roller 
and also a freely rotating curved roller. The latter consists of a number of metal 


Fic. 48.—SwivEL OPENING AND GUIDING ROLLERS (MATHER AND PLATT). 


bobbins (similar to those shown in Fig. 46) mounted on a steel shaft and covered 
with a rubber sleeve. In operation, fabric passes over the rubber-covered roller, 
onwards over the second straight roller and into the machine. It will be seen that 
the curvature of the roller and the adjustable tension of the fabric produce an opening 
of the latter and that this expanding force is applied to one side of the fabric only. 
Owing to the fact that the frame carrying the rollers is centrally pivoted, the central 
running of the fabric passing through it is automatically ensured. 

Self-sharpening Scrimp Rails and Rollers.—Another type of apparatus used before 
mangles, drying machines and the like is known as a Scrimp Rail, and one form (Mather 
and Platt) is shown in Figs. 49a and 49b. The rail is composed of a rigid steel bar of 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS Do 


rectangular section having cast iron end pieces screwed into both ends and provided 
with tightening nuts. Between the end pieces the bar is threaded alternately with 
metal (brass or a non-corrosive metal) plates and fibre discs, the latter having the 
same length but being slightly narrower than the metal discs, so that these latter 
project on both sides of the roller. The discs are maintained diversing by means of 
a V-shaped centre piece. Fabric passing over the rail is freed from warp creases 
by reason of the expanding action of the divergent plates. 

This apparatus is termed self-sharpening, since the edges of the metal discs are 
sharpened by passage of the fabric over the rail. The rail can be reversed when the 


Fic. 49a.—Scrime Ratt (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fic. 496.—Scrimp Raitt (MATHER AND PLATT). 


metal discs on one side are worn flush with the fibre discs, and it is obviously possible 
to keep the rail in repair by replacement of damaged discs. 

Another form of scrimp or opening rail (Samuel Walker) is shown in Fig. 50. It 
consists of a number of metal blades projecting through a supporting metal plate 
which is further attached to a wood bar. The blades may be made of any metal 
(iron excluded on account of its susceptibility to rust) and are arranged divergently, 
the blades being secured underneath the supporting plate by means of solder. 

Porcelain scrimp rails are also available, and they have the advantage that they 
are not attacked by acids or alkalis and are easily cleaned. 

Spreading Roller.—This ingenious apparatus for applying a tension to the weft 
threads of fabric in open width, which is frequently placed in front of mangles and 
starching mangles, is shown (Mather and Platt) in Fig. 51. It comprises a stationary 


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MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS On 


steel shaft on which are keyed two spirally grooved cylinders, A and B (see Fig. 52), 
and the roller is built up of a number of grooved brass floating strips each having roller 
studs which traverse the spiral grooves A or B. The brass floating strips are further 


Fic. 583a.—WoopEN SPREADING ROLLER (TayLor Bros.). 


Fic. 53b.—ConicaL OPENING ROLLERS (MATHER AND PLATT). 


supported by grooved end plates such that the lateral movement of the brass strips 
is not prevented. Fabric passing over the roller causes the latter to rotate so that 
the studs attached to the brass strips roll forward within the spiral grooves and thereby 
cause the strips to slide successively outwards from and inwards towards the centre 


58 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


of the roller, thus spreading the fabric and removing creases. The roller is set so that 
the strips reach the limits of their inward motion just at the point where the fabric 
arrives upon the roller and so that the strips reach the limits of their outward motion 
where the fabric leaves the roller. 

This type of spreading roller is often fitted with wooden floating strips (see Fig. 53a) 
and is used for both wet and dry fabrics. In designing this device care must be taken 
to provide for lubrication of the studs without allowing the risk of oil stains to the 
fabric passing over the roller. 

Conical Opening Rollers.—These rollers (Mather and Platt) are suitable for ensuring 
the even and straight running of fabric in open width, and in Fig. 53b they are shown 


h r 
mt 


- i iim i mall | 


= <i mn 


Fie. 54.—Scrott Roiiers (Wiiitam Bircsa). 


placed before drying cylinders. The two rollers, which are grooved spirally so as to 
take crimps and creases out of the fabric, are free to revolve independently of each 
other, but are carried on a centrally pivoted frame. Friction is automatically exerted 
on either roller according to the direction of swivelling of the frame about the pivot. 
When the travelling fabric deviates from its central position it causes the frame to 
swivel, thereby causing one conical roller to rotate faster than the other and so restore 
the fabric to its central path of travel. 

Scroll Rollers.—A device (William Birch) of this type for removing creases from 
fabrics while passing towards machines in open width is shown in Fig. 54. It consists 
of two similar metal rollers each about 6 inches in diameter geared together by means 
of spur wheels such that they rotate in opposite directions. Each roller is covered 
spirally with copper twigging of U cross-section, the twigging being soldered to the 


Fic. 55.—THREE-BOWL WATER MANGLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


59 


60 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


rollers. Fabric is drawn between the rotating rollers so that it binds on both, and the 
spiral twigging then stretches the fabric laterally and thus removes creases. 


MANGLES 


Before drying, fabric is always mangled or hydro-extracted, with the object of 
removing as much water as possible. Wool and silk fabrics are frequently hydro- 
extracted and not mangled, but cotton fabrics are almost always mangled in open 
width. Knitted fabrics are not mangled, but are hydro-extracted. 

Those mangles employed for dealing with fabrics before drying are generally 
provided with two or three bowls and are similar in construction to the squeezing 
rollers previously described (see page 34) except that they have no traverse motion 
and the bowls are usually of brass and wood and are wide enough to accommodate 
fabric in open width. Pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of compound levers 
and weights (see page 36). Two-bowl mangles usually contain a driven brass bowl and 
a wood- or indiarubber-covered cast iron bowl, the latter being driven by frictional 
contact with the driven brass bowl. Three-bowl mangles usually contain a central 
driven brass bowl and outer wood or indiarubber bowls driven by frictional contact. 
A three-bowl mangle (Mather and Platt) is shown in Fig. 55. It is desirable that 
mangles should be provided with expanding rollers or other devices, by which the 
entering fabric may be freed from creases. Although such mangles are chiefly employed 
for removing water from fabrics, they also serve a further purpose in closing the threads 
of the fabric which has previously passed through such disturbing processes as scouring, 
bleaching and kiering. 


Fasric GUIDERS 


When fabric in open width is passed over drying cylinders or through mangles and 
similar machines it is particularly desirable that the fabric should approach the machines 
free from creases and as straight as possible. In times past and even to-day, boys and 
girls have been employed to guide fabrics into machines, but within recent years a number 
of devices have become available for automatically controlling the approach of fabric 
to machines. These devices, or fabric guiders, as they are usually termed, generally 
guide and remove creases simultaneously, since in the process of guiding they exert 
a tension on the weft threads of the fabric. 

One type of fabric guider is shown in Fig. 56, and consists of two similar feeders, 
one operating on each edge of the fabric. Each feeder consists of a driven rubber 
roller which presses against a flat plate, the fabric passing between the roller and the 
plate. Owing to the inclination of the axis of the roller to the weft threads of the 
fabric, each rotating roller tends to draw the fabric to its side of the machine, this 
effect being proportional to the pressure exerted on the fabric. In the machine here 
shown, this pressure is maintained by means of compressed air, but in another type 
the pressure is obtained electromagnetically. Two stops, one attached to each plate, 
the latter being capable of adjustment to any width of fabric, are set to the position 
in which it is desired that the fabric should enter the machine. Further, it is arranged 
that any outward displacement of either stop by a lateral movement of the travelling 
fabric instantly releases the pressure of the roller on one plate so that the edge of 
fabric thereby becomes free and the fabric is pulled laterally by the other roller. In 
this manner the fabric is automatically maintained travelling between the stops and 
its lateral movement is limited to about 4 inch. 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 61 


A third type of fabric guider, operating on principles similar to those described 
above, grips the fabric, not by pneumatic or electromagnetic pressure, but by a force 
produced by a freely rotating roller which is caused to revolve by the passage of the 
travelling fabric maintained in contact with it. This guider is thus independent of 
external power and operates just so long as the fabric is in motion. 


Fie. 56.—AvuTOMATIC FABRIC GUIDER (D. FOxXwE LL). 


Dryinac MACHINERY 


4 > 


In England, cylindrical steam-heated rotating cylinders, or “cans,” as they are 
sometimes called, are very largely used for drying fabrics; on the Continent, 
hot-air stenters or drying flues are more generally preferred. Drying cylinders are 
more economical and efficient, and these are the reasons for their popularity in England, 
but hot flues and stenters have the advantage that the fabric being dried comes into 
contact with the minimum of metallic surface, so that it has a better handle after 
drying. Further, fabric may be stretched and its weft threads straightened during 
drying on a stenter. 

Drying Cylinders.—The general construction of a set of drying cylinders (Mather 
and Platt) is shown in Fig. 57, in which some thirty cylinders are mounted on three 
pairs of uprights. Each cylinder is geared to an adjacent one, and the lowest cylinder 
on each upright is driven by a spur wheel attached to the main driving shaft. Altern- 
atively, the cylinders may be driven by mitre gear from vertical shafts. The cylinders 
are placed step-wise so that fabric in its travel over them utilises the greatest possible 
amount of cylinder surface. 

Steam under a pressure of 15 to 30 lb. per square inch is supplied to each cylinder 
through the cast iron uprights, which are hollow, the supply to each cylinder being 


Fic. 57.—CyitinpER Dryinc MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


62 


Fic. 58a. 


Fie. 58d. 


PIG. 58e: 


ConsrrucTION OF DryING CYLINDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


63 


64 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


through the “ dollhead ”’ bearings by which each cylinder is supported and attached 
to the vertical upright. At the same time, condensed water in the cylinders is dis- 
charged through the dollhead bearing and flows downwards through the hollow upright 
and is finally removed from the system by means of an attached steam trap (see page 309). 

The construction of the cylinders is of importance, and is shown in Figs. 58a, b 
and c. A cylinder is usually made of sheet copper, but cheaper ones are made with 
tinned iron sheet. The usual diameter of a cylinder is about 23 inches, thus having a 
circumference of about 2 yards, but cylinders used for drying after printing often have 
a diameter of about 28 inches. It is not possible to construct seamless cylinders of 
so large a diameter, so that a longitudinal brazed or soldered joint is necessary, and 
if this joint or seam is imperfectly made it often becomes, owing to steam leakage, 
a means for spoiling fabrics. 

Generally drying cylinders must be built to withstand both outward and inward 
forces, for, when in use, the normal internal steam pressure is 15 to 30 lb. and may 
reach 45 lb. per square inch, while on cooling, an internal vacuum may be produced 


Fic. 59.—DRyYING CYLINDER (BENTLEY AND JACKSON). 


by partial or complete condensation of the steam within, so that the cylinder is then 
subject to an atmospheric compression of up to 15 lb. per square inch. Fig. 58) 
shows the construction of a cylinder capable of withstanding these forces, and it will 
be seen that the cylinder has two cast iron ends and is strengthened by means of 
T-shaped rings. Each end of the cylinder is provided with an automatic vacuum 
valve such that when the pressure within the cylinder is below atmospheric Ie HE 
air is admitted to the cylinder, thus preventing the formation of a vacuum. 

Another safety precaution consists of inserting a steam pressure reducing valve 
between the main steam supply and the drying cylinders. 

The heat transference from steam to the surface of the cylinder is retarded by 
condensed water within the cylinder, so that it is usual to provide cylinders with water 
buckets or collectors for the purpose of ensuring that the water is rapidly discharged 
through the dollhead. Such collectors are shown in Fig. 58), and consist of suitably 
formed tinned copper strip arranged to be effective independently of the direction of 
rotation of the cylinder. Another type of water ejector (Bentley and Jackson) is 
shown in Fig. 59. It consists of a spiral open gutter of 1 cross-section and is 
connected at the discharge end with a bucket having a branch projecting into the 
dollhead of the cylinder. Whatever type of collector is used, the water in the cylinder 


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Fic. 60.—DryinG CYLINDERS FoR DryINnG FaBRIC ON ONE Sipe (MATHER AND Parr). 


66 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


is guided along the gutter or channel and discharged in the dollhead and on towards 
the main steam trap. 

A feature of the cylinder shown in Fig. 58a is that the nozzles which form part of 
the bearing are detachable and can therefore be replaced after wear. 

Fabric passing over a standard arrangement of drying cylinders is heated on both 
sides. In many instances, however, it is undesirable to let the face side of a fabric 
make contact with the cylinder. For instance, fabric having raised effects would be 
much flattened and its pleasing appearance diminished. For the drying of such fabrics, 
small copper rollers are placed adjacent to the drying cylinders and the fabric is 
threaded around these as shown in Fig. 60. For the same purpose, it is also possible 
to utilise winches instead of rollers, and a machine (Mather and Platt) having these 


Fic. 61.—CyLINDER AND WINCH DryING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


incorporated in its construction is shown in Fig. 61; it is suitable for drying on one 
side only fabrics heavily starched on one side and also those having a plush or other 
raised surface. 

Although drying cylinders are usually driven by means of spur wheels and less 
frequently by bevel gear wheels, a more efficient drive is shown in Figs. 63a and b. 
For this type of drive, a vertical driving shaft is fixed between the ends of the cylinders 
and the inside of the frame, and to it is secured a number of worm gears, one for each 
cylinder. Each worm is in mesh with a worm wheel fitted on the cylinder end as 
shown in Fig. 63a, so that each cylinder is then driven independently. The worm 
runs in an oil-bath as shown in Fig. 632 and the drive is thus effected with the minimum 
of strain, noise and backlash; the possibility of oil from the gear wheels being thrown . 
on the fabric being dried is reduced considerably. 

Drying cylinders are also arranged horizontally, but the principles of their design 
are not thereby altered. 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 67 


Design of Dollheads.—The design of dollhead bearings for drying cylinders is of 
considerable importance, for such bearings must allow, without the risk of leakage, 
of a continuous supply of steam under pressure to the rotating cylinder and also allow 
the discharge of water arising from the condensed steam. Fig. 62 shows the ordinary 
type of dollhead bearing in which steam and water leakage are prevented by screwing 
the trunnion, C, tightly against the packing, B, within the stuffing-box as shown. At 
first, such a dollhead behaves satisfactorily and no leakage occurs, though it is evident 
that the tight grip of the packing on the rotating end, A, of the cylinder produces 
friction and thereby demands greater driving power. However, as the bearing wears 
the trunnion falls out of centre by an amount corresponding to the degree of wear and, 
on tightening the packing, it eventually occurs that the cylinder end is slightly lifted and 
rides on a thin layer of packing. With further wear, leakage of steam through the 
packing frequently occurs and also the friction exerted on the cylinder end becomes 
greater. 


aa 


\\ nna AN AAT 
UUUUWU UL a WU 
ee ae) 


Fig. 62.—DoLLHEAD FOR DRYING CYLINDERS. 


The disadvantages of the usual dollhead as described above are overcome by 
designing the bearing (W. P. Evans) as shown in Figs. 63a and b. In this type of 
bearing the packing is contained in a rotary stuffing-box having a faced joint so that 
as the bearing wears the stuffing-box automatically adjusts itself and maintains a steam- 
tight joint. Further, since the packing rotates with the cylinder end, this type of 
bearing is subject to much less friction than is the case with the ordinary dollhead. 
As shown in Fig. 63a, lubrication is effected by packing a mixture of grease and yarn 
into a hole in the top of the bearing. 

Another improved type of dollhead is shown in Fig. 64. In this case, the cylinder 
is mounted on ball bearings, 12, these being secured by an adapter, 10. The outer 
seating, 7, carried on the bucket ring, 6, does not rotate, but is free to move subject 
to the pressure of the spring, 4, towards or away from the adapter and thus allow for 
expansion and contraction of the cylinder. All friction in the dollhead is thus between 
the steam joint made by the faces of the adapter, 10, and the outer seating, 7, these 
faces being lubricated by the oil ring, 9 

Walker Cell Drying Machine.—Quite a different type of machine (Samuel Walker) 


68 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


for drying fabrics is shown in Fig. 65. It consists of a number of rectangular cells 
each about 5 inches deep, 44 feet wide and any suitable length (according to the width 
of fabric) cast from a special alloy. The cells are arranged one above the other in two 
tiers, each being slightly inclined to the horizontal and supported by upright cast iron 
columns. Steam under about 25 lb. pressure per square inch is admitted to each 
cell, and the fabric to be dried passes over the surface of the cells. The fabric may be 
in actual contact with the surface or it may pass at a slight distance from the surface 
of the cells, and further, the passage of the fabric is assisted by driven brass seamless 


Special hof neck Faced Joint 
Rorary Cup. 


WormWheel. Yarn Grease. 
| Common Dacking, Cover 


Adjusting. 


Crew 


Tae 
. LL 
Suu HAN 
Py D> 


— _Secrional Elevation showing —— 


—_Worm, Wheel and Dollhead —— 
—in Pposirion. 


Fic. 63a.—DoLLHEAD AND WorM DRIVE ror DRYING CYLINDERS (W. P. Evans Aanp Sons). 


rollers positioned one above the other at both ends of the machine. About 14 h.p. is 
required for driving the rollers, and this is the only power required, since all other 
parts of the machine are stationary. 

The general construction of a cell is shown in Fig. 66. Steam enters at one corner 
and travels in the path shown between the baffle plates, driving condensed water before 
it to the outlet in the other corner and then to the steam trap. 

As is evident, this type of drying machine is very compact, each cell being about 
equivalent in drying power to two ordinary drying cylinders. In tests carried out 
with this machine, the consumption of steam for drying a certain quantity of wet 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 69 


fabric was only one-half of that necessary in the usual type of drying machine consisting 
of cylinders. A further advantage of the cell drying machine is that the difficulty of 
supplying steam to rotating cylinders without troublesome leaks is completely avoided. 
By means of this type of machine fabric may be dried up to 100 yards per minute. 
Looped Cloth Drying Machines.—Although drying cylinders are the most efficient 
means for drying woven fabrics, they suffer from several disadvantages. For instance, 
the fabric being dried must necessarily be in contact with the metal cylinder, and while 
this contact may affect the colour or other preparing substances within the fabric, 


DRYING CYLINDER 


{oy* Valve 


—_Secfional Elevation of Worm _—= 
—_ond Wheel with Dollhead and=—— 
—_ O:! Bath removed.— : 


Fic. 636.—DoLLHEAD AND WorM Drive ror Dryine CyLinpEers (W. P. Evans anp Sons), 


it will almost certainly give the fabric a harsh handle. Further, fabric passing over 
drying cylinders is subject to a warp tension which in many instances is undesirable, 
particularly when the fabric contains figured effects. When these disadvantages must 
be avoided, use must be made of hot air stentering machines (see page 181) or looped 
cloth drying machines. 

A looped cloth drying machine usually consists of a closed chamber through which 
fabric may travel in the form of loops, each loop being supported by a rod or pole 
attached to a travelling chain; the drying is effected by means of hot air. A typical 
machine (Tomlinsons) is shown in Fig. 67 and consists of a chamber or drying tunnel 


I 


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d 
Y; 


LUM 


[LLL A 


ee cA, 


SECTIONAL ELEVATION 
Fic. 64.—Do.LLHEAD FOR DRYING CYLINDERS (SiR J. FaRMER, NORTON AND Co.). 


HE 


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TILE 


& 


Fic. 65.—CrELL Dryinc MAcHINE (S. WALKER AND Sons). 
70 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 71 


in which a travelling chain travels in a rectangular path as shown. By means of fans 
each of about | h.p. air is drawn over gilled steam heating pipes, being thereby heated 
and circulated through the chamber in the directions shown in Fig. 68. The fans are 
placed in the top of the chamber and the heating 

units in each side. The circulation of hot air is in Steam Inlet 
a direction opposite to the forward travel of the 
fabric. 

The links of the endless chains are provided 
with outriggers which carry the horizontal poles 
necessary for supporting the loops of fabric, these 
outriggers and poles being clearly shown in Fig. 69. 
The poles carrying the fabric are generally made of 
wood (beech, sycamore or lancewood) or preferably 
of Monel metal, and their travel requires about 1 
to 1} h.p. The loops or folds of fabric are about 
4 to 5 yards in length, and the machine can carry 
fabric up to 150 inches wide. 

The formation of the folds and the method of travel of fabric through the machine 
are shown in Fig. 69. The pole-carrying device is driven through the constant speed 
cloth-carrying roller (left-hand top corner) and gives a varying stroke to the pawl A 


Q 
Outlet 


Fic. 66.—CoNSTRUCTION OF DRYING 
Crus (8S. WALKER AND Sons). 


Fig. 67.—Loorep CirotH DrRyING MACHINE (TOMLINSONS). 


through an adjustable rod and lever. The travel of the poles is intermittent, so that 
time is allowed for the looping of the fabric, this intermittent motion being produced 
by the cam, B, engaging the pawl C from the ratchet wheel, D, and the period of the 
motion is controlled by the cam, B, which pawl A rotates. The cloth is carried forward 


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Fic. 70.—Loorep Fasric Drying MACHINE (RADEBEULER-MASCHINENFABRIK AuGusT KoEBIG). 


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Fic. 7la.—Loorep Fasric Drying MacHINE (RADEBEULER-MASCHINENFABRIK AUGUST KOEBIG). 


74 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


when the ratchet wheel, D, is rotated by the pawl C, and the spur wheels, F, connect 
this motion to the chain wheel, E, the pole arm, G, moving through 60 degrees while 
the fabric advances the distance X. As the fabric advances, the arm, G, closes the 
wide loop. At the next movement of the pawl A which operates cam B, this disengages 
and gives a period allowing the formation of the next loop, and when this is complete 
the cam B reassumes its normal position and the pawl C engages again. 

At the delivery end of the chamber, simultaneously 
with the advance of the fabric, the chain wheel, E2, 
rotates through 60 degrees by reason of its connection 
with chain wheel E1 through the endless chain, J. At the 
same time the outrigger drops through 60 degrees, thus 
freeing the loop of fabric K which is then drawn upwards 
by the fabric draw roller shown (top right-hand corner). 

It is thus evident that in this machine fabric is 
dried under a minimum of tension and its handle is not 
deleteriously affected by contact with hot metallic 
surfaces. Such a machine is suitable for all kinds of 
fabrics, woven or knitted. 

Another type of looped fabric drying machine is 

« shown in Figs. 70, 7la and 716, and is of interesting 
1G. 71b.—CIRCULATION OF AIR IN i . : : 
Loorep Fapric Dryinc Macuine construction, since the feed and delivery of the dried 
CORRE Gentoo eee fabric are adjacent. Wet fabric is brought to the 

machine (an unreeling machine is utilised when the 
wet fabric is on batch rollers) and is automatically looped over the poles travelling 
on endless travelling chains, so that the fabric is slowly conveyed to the turntable, 
where the poles describe a semi-circle and the fabric continues to the delivery end 
(Fig. 71a). The endless conveyor chains descend for their return while the fabric is 
batched up or plaited down. The looping of the fabric and its delivery at the machine 
are automatically effected. 

The current of warm air through the machine is maintained by fans as shown in 
Fig. 710. 


MACHINERY FOR WOOLLEN FABRICS 


Wool Scouring Machines.—Woollen fabrics are never cleansed by the methods 
employed for cotton fabrics, and indeed wool is not bleached to the same extent, since 
this is frequently unnecessary. Usually woollen fabrics are simply cleansed by treat- 
ment in a scouring machine such as that shown in Fig. 72. This machine consists of 
a hooded trough containing an alkaline scouring liquor and two wood (beech) rollers 
of large diameter, the lower one being driven. Suitable arrangements for heating the 
scouring liquor are provided. In operation, one or more pieces of woollen fabric are 
sewn together so as to form an endless band, and this continuously passes between 
the rollers, the remainder of the fabric remaining slack in the trough. The rollers 
usually revolve at about 60 revolutions per minute (depending on their diameter) 
and require about 4 h.p. 

In scouring machines a removable small trough is frequently provided immediately 
underneath the rollers for the purpose of collecting the liquor first squeezed out of the 
fabric, since, being dirty, it is better removed than returned to the remaining liquor. 

Scouring machines are constructed for treating woollen fabrics in rope form or 


EE 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS fea 


open width. The latter are usually provided with scroll rollers (see page 58) for 
maintaining the fabric in open width. 

Milling Machines.—These machines are employed for shrinking or felting woollen 
piece goods such that they acquire any desired density and handle. In the process of 
milling, woollen material is maintained moist with alkaline or, less frequently, acid 
solutions while pressed together between rollers or beaten by falling wooden hammers. 
Those machines using hammers are similar in construction to those described later 
(see page 221), and in such machines the stroke of the hammers may be obtained by a 


Fic. 72.—WoouLEN Fasric ScourRING MAcHINE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). 


positive crank motion or by gravity. Better milling results are obtained, however, 
by means of roller milling machines, which are especially suitable for fabrics. 

The essential principles of construction of a milling machine are shown in Fig. 73. 
Such a machine consists of a wooden or an iron plate chamber containing two pressure 
rollers, a spout, a lid provided with top weights, a drag roller, a draft board and a 
mouthpiece. Woollen fabric, the selvedges sewn together so that the face of the fabric 
is inside the long bag thus formed, in an endless length passes over the drag roller, 
through a draft board (for regulating the path of the fabric), into the mouthpiece, 
between the rollers into the contracted space within the spout and downwards into the 
bottom of the chamber ready for further passage through the rollers. The positions of 
the mouthpiece and spout are generally adjustable. Milling or alteration in the 


Weights 


Flanged Foller 


Dratt Board 


I & ED. 
KMWHITELEY & SONS, 
ockWOOD, HUDDERSFIELD.ENG, HH Mi 


i 


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Fic. 74.—Minitinc MacuinE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sows). 
76 


MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 77 


structure of the woollen fabric occurs while the fabric passes through the rollers and 
spout and is regulated by the pressure on the rollers and on the lid. 

A typical milling machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 74. It contains two 
oak rollers each 18 inches in diameter and 10 inches wide, both rollers being driven and 
maintained under pressure by means of compression springs, and worm gear is provided 
so that the pressure on both sides of the rollers may be adjusted simultaneously. The 
mouthpiece is glass lined and is provided with two upright sycamore guiding rollers. 
Pressure on the lid is maintained by a lever and weights. Such a machine requires 
about 6 h.p., the rollers being driven at 90 to 130 revolutions per minute. This 
particular machine is also provided with a trough so that the machine may also be 
used for scouring. 


a 


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~e WMTELEX foe 


Fic. 75.—HypDRO-EXHAUSTER FOR Faprics (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). 


Hydro-exhauster.—Before drying, wet treated woollen fabric is freed from excess 
water by a passage through a squeezing machine or mangle (see page 60), or by means 
of a centrifuge (see page 224) or an hydro-exhauster (Wm. Whiteley), shown in Fig. 75, 
This latter machine has the advantage that it produces no creases in the fabric being 
treated. It consists of a cast iron cylindrical chamber having an upper longitudinal 
slot whose length may be adjusted by sliding cover plates. The chamber is in com- 
munication with a vacuum pump. The machine is also provided with guiding rollers 
and a draw roller for the fabric. In operation, fabric is guided over the slot, and 
moisture is thereby drawn from the fabric into the chamber by reason of the vacuum 
maintained therein. Much of the water originally present in the fabric is thus removed, 
so that the fabric is then ready for drying. 

Drying Machines.—Woollen fabrics may be dried over steam-heated cylinders such 
as are employed for cotton fabrics (see page 61), but this method of drying gives the 
fabric a harsh handle. Hence woollen fabrics are more generally dried by means of 
hot air in machines which are known as Tentering Machines. Such a machine (Wm. 
Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 76 and consists of a chamber through which hot air is drawn 


78 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


by anexhaust fan. Horizontal travelling endless clip chains on each side of the chamber 
are driven by sprocket wheels at both ends of the chamber. The woollen fabric is 
dried during numerous passages backwards and forwards through the chamber, being 
carried and maintained in open width by means of the horizontal travelling clip chains 


Fic. 76.—TENTERING MacuiInE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). 


driven by sprocket wheels placed at the ends of the chamber. The clips are of the 
pin type as shown in Figs. 77 and 78. The pins of the clips pierce and thereby hold 
the selvedges of the fabric. With the exception that vertical (not horizontal) 
sprocket wheels are employed for driving the clip chains, the operation of the machine 


NSSy SASS sy ; 
Fig. 77.—Pin Cuip FoR TENTERING Fic. 78.—Pin Crie ror TENTERING 
MacHINES (CLAY AND ATKINSON). MacHINES (CLAY AND ATKINSON). 


is similar to that of the stenter frame fully described later (see Fig. 153). As shown 
in Fig. 76, fresh air may be admitted to various parts of the chamber and the hot air 
is provided by a multitubular heater. Fabric dried in such a machine has a soft full 
handle. 

Another type of tentering machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 79. It is 


. 
: 
; 


Fic. 794.—TENTERING MACHINE (FELIx BILLIG). 
79 


80 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


similar in construction to the machine described above, but the heating elements consist 
of horizontal layers of steam-heated serpentine coils placed between the travelling 
fabric. Fabric passing through the machine is thus dried by hot air and radiant 
heat produced by the heated coils. The machine allows rapid drying, but the handle 
of the dried fabric is generally harsher than that of fabric dried in the previouslv 
described type of tentering machine. 

The arrangement of another type of tentering machine provided with drying 
cylinders for pre-drying is shown in Fig. 79a. 


CHAPTER II 
MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 


In dyeing, as in washing processes, a relative motion must be established between 
the textile fabric and the liquor with which it is being treated, so that thorough and 
uniform treatment of the fabric is obtained. 

In dyeing fabrics it is almost always found that uniform and complete treatment 
of the fabric is obtained by moving it through a more or less stationary dye liquor. 
Fabrics are seldom dyed by forcing a dye liquor through them while stationary within 
a container. Thus fabric dyeing is essentially different from the dyeing of loose 
wool and cotton, an operation which is generally carried out by circulating a dye 
liquor through perforated vessels containing the loose material. Cotton, wool and 
silk fabrics are therefore usually dyed in rope form or in open width by leading the 
fabric through a dye liquor suitably heated and the various machines employed differ 
chiefly in the devices they contain for ensuring the motion of the fabric. 

In some dyeing machines, the fabric is completely dyed by one passage through 
one or more dye liquor vats; alternatively, the fabric is dyed during several to-and-fro 
passages through a dye liquor contained in one vat, or an endless length of fabric is 
dyed while being gradually and repeatedly drawn in either direction through a dye 
liquor by means of an overhead winch. Further, dyeing is sometimes effected by 
passage of fabric through a padding mangle containing a suitable dye liquor. These 
different types of dyeing may now be considered. 

Rope Dye Beck.—Vig. 80 shows a machine (so-called dye-beck) by means of which 
fabric in rope form may be rapidly dyed. It is largely used for dyeing fabrics after 
printing and also ordinary cotton fabrics in pale shades. The machine consists of a 
wooden or iron V-shaped vat for holding dye liquor and an upper driven winch extending 
the full length of the vat. Fabric is led into the machine at one end and threaded up 
as shown. Successive passages of the fabric over the winch are separated by means 
of the wooden or porcelain pegs shown in front of the machine, and a certain amount 
of slack fabric is allowed to lie in the bottom of the vat. Such a machine will hold 
about 1000 yards of fabric and the whole is continually drawn out of and into the dye 
liquor by the upper rotating winch. 

The vat is usually provided with a perforated steam pipe, thus enabling the dye 
liquor to be heated as required. In some machines of this type, the guiding pegs are 
secured to a hinged horizontal rail, and when entanglement of the fabric occurs, this 
peg rail lifts and thereby operates a lever by which the drive to the winch is automatically 
disengaged ; damage to the fabric is thus avoided. 

Open Width Winch Dyeing Machine.—A type of machine (Wm. Whiteley) similar to 
that described above is shown in Fig. 81 and is adapted for the dyeing of all kinds of 
fabrics in open width. The machine is simply constructed and comprises an overhead 
winch placed above a rectangular dye vat which is fitted with a supply of steam and 
water, and with suitable outlet plugs. Freely rotating wooden or other guide rollers 
are placed across the ends and bottom of the tank and an endless length of fabric 
in open width is continuously drawn out of the vat and over the winch. During the 
operation of dyeing, practically all the fabric is being slowly dragged along the bottom 
of the vat. Such a machine should be provided with easy means for readily reversing 
the direction of rotating of the winch. 

Another winch machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) and suitable for dyeing cotton, 
woollen and artificial knitted fabric is shown in Fig. 82. This machine is constructed 

6 81 


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Fic. 80.—Rore Dyr Breck (MATHER AND PLatTT). 


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82 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 83 


with vitralite and hardite throughout, so that it is practically stainless and is resistant 
to all types of dye liquor. It comprises a dye vat fitted with heating elements, and 
an upper winch and peg rail. The winch is driven through fast and loose pulleys. 
This machmme is also suitable for dyeing printed goods. 

Dye Jigs.—Probably the most generally used machine for dyeing all kinds of 
fabrics in open width is that shown in Fig. 83 and usually known as a jig or simply 
jig. Many variations in the design of jigs have been made chiefly for the purpose 


Fie. 81.—Wincw DyxEInG MacuineE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). 


of adapting them to different types of fabric, but the essential constructional features 
of all jigs are the same and are clearly shown in Fig. 84. 

A jig consists of a V-shaped dye vat which may be made of wood, cast iron, cast iron 
ends with wood sides or of stainless material such as vitralite, and upper draw rollers 
and lower guiding rollers. The fabric being dyed is first wound on roller A (see Fig. 84) 
and is then led downwards around guiding rollers C, E, F and D, being then wound 
on roller B. The guiding rollers are not driven but rotate freely, whereas A and B 
are driven alternately from a side shaft by means of mitre wheels which are frequently 
fitted with claw clutches. Rollers E and F are always submerged in the dye liquor, 
but C and D may or may not be, according to the amount of dye liquor present in the 


84 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


jig. In dyeing, fabric is drawn from A to B (B being driven), then from B to A (A 
being driven) and this is repeated until the fabric has the shade desired. Generally 
each passage through the liquor is known as an “ end ” and dyeing is seldom completed 
in less than 4 or 5 ends. Between the different ends, additions of dye are made to the 
jig liquor according to the shade being matched. Further, the dye liquor is heated 
or cooled as desired. ‘The heating elements in the jig seldom consist of more than a 
perforated steam pipe, although a closed steam coil is advantageous, since it enables 
dilution of the dye liquor during heating to be avoided. 


> © @0e@e 8 28 8 20 8 8 2 6 82% 6 8 © 8 6 8 @ 0 0 6:6 © 


Fic. 82.—WincH Dyrrnc Macuine (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). 


It will be observed that during each end, fabric passes through the dye liquor 
at a constantly increasing speed, depending on the diameter of the draw-roller. 

After dyeing, the fabric, now batched on one of the draw rollers A or B, must be 
transferred to a roller which can be taken from the machine and delivered to a mangle 
through which the dyed fabric can be squeezed free from excess water or dye liquor. 
For this purpose a wooden roller, G, having an iron or brass shaft is placed in contact 
with either A or B (the one carrying no fabric) as shown in Fig. 85 and supported by 
the iron bars (centre irons), R. The fabric is then threaded between B and G, being 


Fic. 83.—Dye Jics (MATHER AND PuatTTt). 


Fabric 


Fic. 84.—SEcTION oF A DYE Jia. Fic. §85.—Uprer Rouuers OF A Dye JIG. 


85 


(LLVIG GNV UHHLV) SHATIOY ONIZTAAdG HLIM dif) FAQ '98 OT 


86 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 87 


wrapped once or twice around G. On driving roller B, fabric is drawn from A and is 
rolled around G, since this is rotated by frictional contact with the surface of B. It 
will be noticed that the frictional driving of G by B is through a constantly increasing 
thickness of fabric; this friction is sometimes likely to damage very delicate fabrics. 

During the operation of dyeing, fabric passing from one roller to the other should 
be under definite tension and for this reason it is advisable to retard slightly the roller 
from which the fabric is being unwound. This result is obtained by means of small 
pulley wheels keyed to the ends of the shafts of rollers A and B, a friction upon these 
being exerted as required by means of a leather belt to which is attached an adjustable 
weight as shown in Fig. 83. 

It is sometimes desirable to squeeze the fabric wound on either draw roller during 
dyeing in order that the fabric on that roller may contain the minimum amount of dye 
liquor. This is accomplished by providing the jig with squeezing rollers which press 
on rollers A and B as shown in Fig. 86, the pressure being obtained by means of levers 
and weights. 


Fic. 87.—UrprrerR Portion oF A DyE JIG (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CO.). 


Having now indicated some of the methods by which fabrics are dyed and otherwise 
treated with liquors on jigs, some further points concerning their construction as 
shown in Fig. 83 will be appreciated. The upper draw rollers with supports for 
batching rollers are clearly shown. In the machines shown, the friction on the draw 
rollers is obtained by means of leather straps attached to a sliding weight, so that 
adjustable friction can be put on either roller as desired. The outlet for dye liquor is 
shown at one end of the jig, and here it may be mentioned that this outlet cannot be 
made too large; jig men should be paid for working the fabric in the jig, not for 
watching 40 or 50 gallons of liquor trickle through an inadequate sized outlet. 

Machines as shown in Fig. 86 having squeezing rollers are suitable for dyeing with 
sulphur and vat colours. 

The construction of the upper part of a dye jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) is clearly 
shown in Fig. 87. The drive to either roller is through D and the claw clutches C 
operated by the rod F. A is a centre iron supporting the batching-up roller B. 

The jig shown in Fig. 88 allows fabric to be drawn through the dye liquor at a 
constant speed. In this case the roller E driven at constant speed by D is used only 
as a draw-roller, the fabric being wound on the upper roller, F. The travel of the 


88 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


fabric through the jig is thus independent of the amount of fabric wound on F. The 
pulley wheels A, B and C allow the reversal of direction of travel of the fabric. 
Although dye jigs are nominally provided for the dyeing of fabric, they are used 
for all kinds of operations such as scouring, bleaching, chemicking and souring and 
must therefore be capable of withstanding the action of alkalis and acids. Further, 


1{9) [p> 


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Fic. 88.—Constant SPEED Dyk Jia (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING OO.). 


since one jig may be used consecutively for these different operations, it must be 
constructed of a material which does not readily stain and may be easily washed clean 
with water. Wood jigs are capable of withstanding the action of dilute acids and weak 
alkalis, but are attacked by caustic alkalis and oxidising agents (e.g., solutions containing 


Fic. 89.—Dye Jig ROLLER (S. WALKER AND Sons). 


peroxides). Iron jigs withstand alkalis very well, but are susceptible to the action of 
dilute acids. Hence wood and iron, though very largely used, are not entirely satis- 
factory and for this reason various other materials have come into use for the making 
or lining of jigs. Foremost in importance among these are Monel metal, vitralite, 
vulcanite and coralite. Vulcanite, however, suffers from the disadvantage that it 
tends to split under the action of hot and cold liquors. 


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89 


90 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The draw rollers of jigs are generally of wood or porcelain. Wood rollers tend to 
split, readily become stained and are not easily cleaned except by application of 
bleaching solutions. On the other hand, porcelain rollers are free from these defects, 
although heavy and of large heat capacity. Fig. 89 shows a roller which gives about 
the best all-round results. It consists of an earthenware shell about 1 inch thick and 
through its centre runs a steel shaft secured 
by means of cast iron end caps which 
make a perfectly liquor-tight joint with the 
porcelain. The surface of the earthenware 
roller is carefully polished and glazed, and 
is perfectly true. The end caps are level 
with the surface of the earthenware shell. 

Friction Clutches for Jigs.—The ordinary 
type of clutch as fitted to many jigs is 
very jerky in its action, and in stopping 
and starting a jig the fabric passing through 
it is subjected to considerable strain. To- 
day, however, when many fabrics are 
particularly delicate because of the artificial 
silk threads which they contain, easy- 
running and starting jigs are required. 

ee pee ete ee tet DIRE SSS The tendency is therefore to supply jigs 

with friction clutches. A jig draw roller 
fitted with one type of friction clutch (Taylor Bros.) is shown in Fig. 90 and its 
construction is made more clear by reference to Fig. 91. In starting a jig fitted with 
such a friction clutch, the starting lever is operated so that the sliding sleeve, D, is 
pushed towards the driving shaft and its conical end thereupon acts on the cam-lever, 
E, and imparts radial movement 
to the cam, G. This cam is 
machine cut in the form of a 
cycloidal curve and in action has 
a rolling contact on the flat face of 
one end of the expanding ring, F, 
while the opposite end of the ring 
butts up against the adjusting} 
screw, H, so that the whole of the 
outer surface of friction ring makes 
contact with the inner surface of 
the shell, B, and the clutch is thus - 
put in gear and the roller rotates. 
When the sliding sleeve, D, is 
withdrawn, the motion of the cam- 
lever, E, is reversed, and the 
friction ring, F, is released from its contact with the shell, B, so that the roller 
becomes disengaged. When the draw roller is running disengaged there is ample 
clearance all round between the friction surfaces. 

Another useful type of friction clutch for dye jigs is shown in Figs. 92 and 93. 

In dyeing fabrics with dye liquors which are susceptible to aérial oxidation (for 


Fic. 93.—CoNSTRUCTION OF FRICTION CLUTCH FOR DYE JIG 
(ANDERTON). 


paseo ace rcscasiscreger 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 91 


example, liquors containing vat dyestuffs), it is sometimes desirable to avoid emergence 
of the fabric from the dye liquor during dyeing. The jigs described above are charac- 
terised by having draw rollers above the dye vat and are therefore unsuitable for this 
purpose. The jig required must have its draw rollers completely submerged, and 
such a jig is shown in Fig. 94. This machine contains two driven draw rollers carried 
in the bottom of the dye vat and which are operated by the bevelled gear wheels and 
clutch shown. A further innovation in this machine consists in winding the fabric, 


———— 
——— 2 
PPT TTT aL Ee POLIT ILI IPL eer 


FAV Fy Tg Fe TeV gO 5 Pg C6 oF) AO Sg FEF (STV aF FTC, Py eV Ee ES 


Fic. 94.—Dvye Jia with SUBMERGED Draw Roxiers (E. COHNEN). 


not from one draw roller to the other, but upon rollers which rest on the draw rollers 
and rotate by reason of their frictional contact. In this manner the rate of travel of 
the fabric through the dye liquor is constant and not ever-varying as is the case when 
fabric is wound from one draw roller upon another. The system of rollers shown 
above the jig are for the purpose of giving the fabric a run in air so that aérial oxidation 
of the vat colour dyed upon it may take place. 

Padding Mangle.—Fabric is also frequently mordanted and then dyed by passage 
in open width through a padding mangle such as that shown in Fig. 95. The two- 


92 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


bowl padding mangle shown consists of an upper indiarubber bowl and a lower brass 
bowl which is driven through a spur wheel shown. The pressure on the bowls is 
obtained by means of compound levers and weights. Underneath the brass bowl is a 
wooden trough (not shown) containing a dye liquor or mordanting solution together 
with two or three freely rotating copper or wooden guiding rollers. The fabric enters 
the trough through tension rails, passes through the liquor and is then squeezed between 
the bowls. After leaving the nip, the mordanted or dyed fabric is then dried over 


Fic. 95.—Papping MancLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


cylinders or on a stenter frame. This method is a very rapid one, but requires care if 
uniform shades are to be obtained. Generally it is very serviceable for pale shades 
or tinting. 

Other types of padding mangles are shown in Figs. 96, 97 and 98. 


Continuous Dyeing Machines 


Whenever large quantities of fabric are dyed to one shade such as Sulphur Black, 
Para Red, Aniline Black and Indigo, it becomes profitable to carry out the dyeing by 
a continuous method. By such methods it becomes possible to dye fabric by one single 
passage through a suitable machine. 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING’ 93 


Machines usually employed for continuous dyeing comprise a number of rectangular 
tanks containing the various liquors essential to the dyeing process, each tank containing 
a number of freely rotating guiding rollers. Simple squeezing rollers are generally 


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Fic. 98.—PADDING MANGLE. 


mounted over the partitions separating the tanks for the purpose of removing excess 
liquor from the fabric during its passage from one tank to the succeeding one. 
Sulphur Black Dyeing Machine.—A type of continuous dyeing machine is shown 
in Fig. 99 and is suitable for dyeing cotton fabrics with Sulphur Black. It comprises 
four tanks built up with cast iron plates and each mangle between the tanks consists 


‘(LIVIG GNV UAHLV]Y) ANIHOVIY DNIDAC MOVIG WAHATAYS—'G6G ‘NIWy 


94 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 95 


of a driven cast iron bowl pressed against an indiarubber-covered cast iron bowl by 
means of a lever and weights. Each tank is fitted with upper and lower rows of freely 
rotating guiding rollers, the lower row being close to the bottom of tank and the upper 
row at any desired height, according as to whether the fabric should emerge or not from 
the dye liquor contained in the tank. The cast iron bowls of the mangles are driven 
from a side shaft by means of bevelled gearing, and the nips thereby obtained are 
sufficient to draw the fabric through the machine. 

Each tank is provided with heating elements, an outlet and a supply of cold water. 
By means of valves shown outside the tanks, communication may be made between 
two consecutive tanks. In operation, fabric enters the machine through the overhead 
tension rails, passes through the tanks and is plaited down at the delivery end. 

In machines of this kind, arrangements must always be provided whereby the 
bowls of the mangles may be easily separated for threading-up purposes. In the 
machine shown here, this is done by means of acam motion. The tanks are constructed 
of iron, since this withstands better than wood the action of an alkaline sulphur black 
dye liquor. 

Para Red Dyeing Machine.—In the process for dyeing Para Red, cotton fabric is 
impregnated in a padding mangle, such as that previously described (see page 92), with 
an alkaline solution of 8-naphthol and dried in a hot flue (see page 135), is further impreg- 
nated with a solution of diazotised paranitraniline and after a short period, in which 
the Para Red shade develops, the fabric is then thoroughly washed in water, then 
soaped and finally dried. A machine suitable for carrying out these operations is 
shown in Fig. 100. 

The padding mangle has an upper indiarubber bowl and a lower brass bowl, 
pressure being obtained by means of compound levers and weights, and scrimp rails 
are also provided (see page 55). This padding mangle contains the diazotised para- 
nitraniline solution and since this solution tends to decompose when in contact with 
metals, the trough and guiding rollers should preferably be constructed of wood. 
Fabric leaving the mangle passes around a number of overhead rollers and in the 
time thereby occupied the diazo solution reacts with the @-naphthol in the cloth and 
a fine red colour is thus produced. The dyed fabric then passes through the con- 
tinuous washing and soaping tanks shown and after a final nip is dried on a vertical 
set of drying cylinders. Arrangements must be provided whereby the washing and 
soap liquors in the four tanks may be heated as desired. 

Of course the arrangements shown in Fig. 100 may be varied to suit individual 
requirements; those shown represent the general outlay of a dyeing plant of this 
type. 

Indigo Dyeing Machine.—Indigo dyed fabric is obtained by impregnating cotton 
or woollen fabric with a feebly alkaline solution of reduced indigo (indigo-white), 
exposing it to the air, whereby the indigo-white is oxidised to its full blue colour, and 
afterwards washing and soaping the fabric so that it may be freed from loosely adhering 
colour and impurities. Two suitable plants for effecting these operations continuously 
are shown in Figs. 101 and 102. 

The machine in Fig. 101 comprises two cast iron dye vats, each provided with 
substantial mangles having cast iron bowls and an overhead series of iron rollers. 
The upper and lower rows of the overhead rollers are of iron and are driven; the inter- 
mediate row are of wood and are freely rotating guiding rollers. Freely rotating 
iron guide rollers are also provided in the dye vats. 


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98 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


In the process of dyeing, fabric is drawn through the first dye vat, containing a 
reduced indigo dye liquor, and after being squeezed in the mangle, the fabric passes 
upwards and traverses a number of the overhead system of rollers so that it is oxidised 
by the air and becomes blue. The fabric then passes downwards, enters the second 
dye vat, where it is further dyed with indigo and is again squeezed in the second mangle, 
passes upwards for a second aérial oxidation and then descends and passes through a 
washing tank and is then dried. 

Similar principles of dyeing underlie the construction of the other type of indigo 
dyeing machine shown in Fig. 102. This machine consists of four dye vats built 
up with cast iron plates and containing a framework carrying upper and lower rows 
of guiding rollers; the framework may be completely removed from the tank. A 
mangle consisting of two cast iron bowls is also provided with each dye vat. 

Between each dye vat is a slowly moving endless horizontal rubber apron or 
creeper. 

During the operations of dyeing, fabric passes through the first dye vat, is then 
drawn over the overhead winch and falls on one end of the creeper. The fabric is 
then drawn from the far end of the creeper and passes through similar processes in 
each of the other dye vats until it is finally plaited down ready for washing and 
drying. 

The high winch and slowly moving creeper (a slowly moving brattice, see 
page 270) allow a considerable quantity of slack fabric to lie for a few minutes between 
each dye vat and in this period the colour of the indigo is largely developed by aérial 
oxidation. 

In the design of machines for indigo dyeing, it should be remembered that the 
vat liquors tend to deposit sediment. Guiding rollers should therefore be placed 
at a distance from the bottom of the dye vat so that the fabric passes clear of the 
sediment. The machine shown in Fig. 102 is provided with agitators which prevent 
the accumulation of a sediment. 

Aniline Black Dyeing Machine.—Every year, huge quantities of cotton fabric 
are dyed black by means of a process involving the oxidation of aniline. This process is 
selected for obtaining a black shade, since it yields one of the fastest black shades known. 

The dyeing operation consists of impregnating cotton fabric with a cold solution 
containing an aniline salt (aniline hydrochloride), an oxidant (sodium chlorate) and 
a catalyst (copper sulphate, sodium ferrocyanide or ammonium vanadate), by means 
of one or more padding mangles, then drying the impregnated fabric by passage over 
a few drying cylinders, subsequently passing it over a number of wooden winches 
contained in a chamber in which the atmosphere is maintained at a suitable tem- 
perature and humidity. In the latter chamber, which is known as an ageing chamber 
or ager, the black colour of the fabric is largely developed as a result of the process 
of oxidation which occurs within the fibres of the fabric. Afterwards, the black 
shade is completely developed and rendered ungreenable by passing the fabric through 
a continuous chroming and washing machine and the fabric is then dried. The opera- 
tion of chroming consists of treating the fabric, after ageing, with a hot or cold weakly 
acid solution of sodium bichromate. 

The machine used for chroming and washing is similar in construction to that 
described previously (see Fig. 99). 

Fig. 103 shows one type of plant employed for dyeing Aniline Black. It com- 
prises a padding mangle, a tension compensator (see page 133), four drying cylinders 


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~ MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 101 


and a brick chamber containing 51 wooden winches, each 23 inches in diameter and 
arranged in four horizontal rows. The winches are driven by spur wheels and the 
chamber is heated by means of closed steam pipes placed below, between and above 
the winches, a gentle current of air being drawn continuously through the chamber 
by means of an exhaust fan. 

The mangle is provided with two vulcanite covered cast iron bowls and a central 
indiarubber bowl, pressure being obtained by means of compound levers and weights ; 
both the vulcanite bowls are driven so that slippage of the fabric is avoided. 

Fig. 103 clearly shows the path taken by the fabric, the aged fabric returning to 
and being plaited down at the feeding end of the machine. The size of the chamber 
varies but usually holds at least 150 yards of fabric at any particular moment. 

The ageing plant shown in Fig. 104 is more substantial and is capable of dealing 
with fabric at a greater speed. It differs from the former plant essentially in that 
it comprises two strong three-bowl mangles, eight drying cylinders, and the ageing 
chamber, containing 79 winches, is directly fed with a current of warm air by means 
of a fan in connection with a multitubular heater. All the winches are driven by 
spur wheels and the chamber is heated internally by means of a number of closed 
steam coils. 

This machine is capable of dealing with fabric at the rate of about 20 yards per 
minute but varies with the size of the chamber. About 20 h.p. is required to drive 
the whole of the components. 

The temperature of the ageing chamber does not usually exceed 60 to 70 degrees C. 
Sometimes two fabrics are dyed together. 

Another type of Aniline Black dyeing machine is shown in Fig. 105. This consists 
of two padding machines, a considerable number of drying cylinders and an ageing 
chamber containing two rows of horizontal rotating copper rollers. After passage 
through the ageing chamber, the dyed fabric is cooled by further passage over a few 
freely-rotating rollers. 

After ageing, the black shade thereby produced on fabric is rendered ungreenable 
by chroming. This may be effected in the jig shown in Fig. 106a and the fabric 
then washed in the range shown in Fig. 106a. Alternatively, after-chroming and 
washing may be effected continuously in one machine similar to that shown in Fig. 99. 


MACHINERY FOR MERCERISING CoTTON FABRICS 


Mercerisation of cotton fabrics is carried out for the purpose of increasing their 
lustre and affinity for dyestuffs. The process was discovered by Mercer in 1854, 
but the important part which tension plays in the process was not clearly recognised 
until pointed out by Lowe in 1875. Briefly the mercerisation of cotton fabric is 
effected by impregnating it with a solution of caustic soda of 50 to 60 degrees Tw., 
then subjecting the fabric to lateral tension so as to counteract the shrinkage which 
occurs and washing it free from caustic soda while under tension. Subsequently all 
traces of alkali are removed from the fabric by treating it with a dilute acid (sulphuric 
or hydrochloric acids) and the acid is then completely removed by washing with 
water. All these processes are carried out continuously by means of modern mercerising 
plant. 

It is important to remember that lustre is dependent on stretching. Fabric treated 
with caustic soda without tension does not gain lastre.” > Generally ithe tension pro- 
duced on the warp threads by drawing the: fabric through: tie mercerising machine 


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104 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


is sufficient to counteract warp shrinkage; the tension necessary in the weft is about 
equal to that employed for pulling the shrunken fabric out to its original width. 

At one time, the washing liquors containing all the caustic soda employed in the 
process of mercerisation were discharged into the nearest drain and thereby wasted. 
To-day most mercerising plants are provided with arrangements whereby practically 
all the waste alkaline liquors or lyes are collected, concentrated, causticised and used 
again in the mercerising process. 

Mercerisation should be carried out with cold alkaline lyes. No markedly superior 
results appear to be obtained by cooling the mercerising liquor to about 0 degrees C., 
but its temperature is preferably maintained at about 10 to 20 degrees C. In this 
connection it must be remembered that by the action of caustic soda on cotton con- 
siderable heat is developed.* Barratt and Lewis (Journ. Text. Inst., 1922, 18, 17) 
found that when | gram of pure cotton was treated with caustic soda, heat was liberated 
as shown in the following table : 


Concentration of caustic soda. Heat liberated by 1 gram of cotton. 
40° Tw. 25°9 calories 
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Heat is also developed by the action of caustic soda on starch, and more heat is 
likely to be developed with sized cotton fabric than with bleached fabrics. On account 
of this development of heat it is advisable to employ a water-cooled container for the 
mercerising liquor. 

With these preliminary observations in mind, the design of the mercerising plant 
(Mather and Platt) shown in Figs. 107 and 109 will be easily appreciated. 

The plant divides itself naturally into three portions : (1) impregnation, (2) stretch- 
ing and removing by washing the greater part of the alkali, and (3) the final souring 
and washing. 

Impregnation is obtained by means of one or more mangles (see Fig. 108), each 
containing an intermediate indiarubber bowl and two outer cast iron bowls, both 
being driven so that slippage of the fabric may be avoided. The pressure on the 
bowls is obtained by means of compound levers and weights. The trough under each 
mangle for containing the mercerising liquor is made with a double jacket so that the 
lye may be cooled by means of ice-cold brine or merely cold water. In the trough 
are iron guiding rollers. 

As an assistance to penetration, the trough is sometimes fitted with a device which 
consists of a slotted iron tube, the width of the slot being fixed by means of internal 
sliding pistons. In its passage through the trough, the fabric is pressed upon the slot 
and at the same time the outer mercerising liquor is sucked through the fabric into 
the tube by means of a small vacuum pump attached to the latter, the lye being returned 
to the trough. In this manner the fabric is thoroughly penetrated by the lye, so 
that the arrangement allows fabric to be passed through the machine at a greater 
rate. 

After impregnation in the first mangle, the fabric passes over a number of freely- 
rotating sheet iron cylinders and then enters the second mangle, from which it passes 
to the stenter frame on which the operation of stretching to width is carried out. 


* « Cotton-Cellulose,” by A J. Hall. Ernest Benn, Ltd. 30s. net. 


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MERCERISING MACHINE FOR PIECE Goops (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fic. 109. 


108 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The run of fabric over the cylinders allows time for the caustic soda to act on the 
cotton fibres while under tension. 

The stenter frame is essentially a device for stretching fabric laterally (weft-wise) 
while it is travelling. The construction of a stenter frame will not be described in 
detail here, since in an improved and elaborate form it is largely used in finishing and 
is therefore fully described in Chapter IV (see page 181). Essentially, the machine 
consists of two side rails, J and K, each about 50 to 70 feet in length and each carrying 
races for an endless travelling chain of clips. The distance between the two side 


Fic. 110.—MeERcERISING CLip (MATHER AND PLATT). 


rails can be increased or diminished by means of screwed cross rods worked by 
power and also having hand wheels attached. As the fabric enters the stenter frame, 
the selvedges are securely gripped by the clips on either side rail, and by suitably 
inclining the first section of the rails the fabric may be pulled out to a desired amount. 
The remaining sections of the side rails being maintained parallel, the fabric passes 
through the remainder of the frame under a constant tension, afterwards passing 
through a mangle and then entering the souring and washing portion of the plant. 
Stenter clips for mercerising should be made of iron with nickel plates; brass is rapidly 
attacked by caustic soda. They should also be robust, since they must be capable of 
withstanding much tension. A typical clip is shown in Fig. 110. 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 109 


The washing of the fabric during its passage through the stenter frame is secured 
thus :— 

Above the fabric are secured four spaced spurt pipes, H, capable of being swivelled 
so that they may accommodate themselves to the width of the fabric being mercerised, 
and by means of which water is sprayed on the travelling fabric. Under each spurt 
pipe and _ below the fabric is a separate concrete or iron tank, T. Also immediately 
underneath it and touching the fabric are four suction boxes G, which are a 
small distance behind the spurt pipes above the fabric. These suction boxes 
are made of cast iron and have an upper flat perforated surface; each suction 
box is in connection with a vacuum pump. Hot water delivered from washing 
box, W, to the spurt pipe nearest to the delivery end of the stenter frame is 
sprayed upon the fabric over the suction box below. The sprayed water is 
sucked into the box, thereby partially removing caustic soda from the fabric, and 
forming a weak alkaline lye, which is discharged into the tank underneath. Weak 


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Fig. 111.—‘‘ Marter’”’ Caustic LYE REcovERY APPARATUS (J. AND P. BEMBERG). 


lye from this first tank is then delivered by a small centrifugal pump to the second 
spurt pipe and after being sprayed and sucked through the fabric into the second 
suction box, the resulting stronger lye is discharged into the second tank underneath 
the fabric. Again the lye in this second tank is delivered to the third spurt pipe 
by means of a centrifugal pump, sprayed on the fabric, then sucked into the third 
suction box and discharged into the third tank underneath. These operations are 
repeated with the fourth spurt pipe and the now strong alkaline lye is discharged 
into the fourth tank. From the fourth tank, the strong lye is pumped to separate 
plant, in which it may be causticised and concentrated by well known methods and 
thus made suitable for re-use. 

With a washing system as described above, a 90% recovery of the caustic soda 
used is possible, and the strength of the recovered lye before concentration shouid 
not be less than 8 degrees Tw. 

The washing and souring portion of the plant is similar to the continuous dyeing 
machines already described (see page 92). It consists of a number of tanks built 
of wood, each tank being provided with upper and lower rows of freely rotating guiding 


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110 


MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 111 


rollers, and a supply of hot or cold water. Small mangles are provided between each 
tank. The first tank contains hot water obtained from that sprayed on the fabric 
immediately after leaving the stenter frame and before passage through the squeezing 
mangle shown before W. Tank R contains dilute acid, V contains hot water and 
the last tank contains cold water. 

The travel of the fabric is controlled by the electric motor, Z, and A, B and C are 
pumps separately controlling the supply of liquor to the spurt pipes and the suction 
of the suction boxes. 


Fic. 113.—StretcHing APPARATUS FOR MERCERISING MACHINE (BENNIGER). 


A machine such as that described above requires 30-35 h.p. and is capable of 
mercerising up to 60 yards of fabric per minute. 

Those responsible for the design of mercerising stenters should remember that 
caustic soda is a very corrosive liquor which readily attacks the hands of workmen. 
For this reason all working parts of such machines likely to require attention or frequent 
repair should be arranged, as much as possible, out of contact with the mercerising 
liquor; attention to such parts while the machine is working is then possible. 

In some mercerising machines (Bemberg) the mercerising liquor is only partially 
removed from the fabric as it passes through the stenter frame, the bulk of the alkali 


112 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


being recovered while the fabric passes through a closed chamber similar to that 
shown in Fig. 111. Such a recovery chamber is built up with cast iron plates and 
contains upper and lower rows of iron guiding rollers. Fabric passes through the 
chamber over and under the rollers (the upper rollers are driven) and finally leaves it 
through a squeezing mangle. Iron baffle plates fixed to the inclined bottom of the 
chamber retard the flow of a small current of water which serves to remove alkali 
from the fabric. The removal of alkali is effected more completely, however, by 
directing small jets of steam on the travelling fabric, the steam thereby thoroughly 
penetrating the fabric, condensing and thus removing the alkali which it contains. 

Mercerising Machine without Stenter Frame.—sSince the early days of mercerising 
fabrics, efforts have been made to avoid the use of stenter frames with the object of 
obtaining a more compact and easily adjusted machine. These efforts have not met 
with complete success, but they have resulted in the production of machines which 
are useful in special circumstances. Fig. 112 shows such a machine (Benniger). 
It consists of a padding mangle containing three cast iron bowls, two of which are 
covered with indiarubber, a set of expanding rollers and a caustic recovery and washing 
apparatus. The trough of the padding mangle may be lowered or raised as desired 
and the washing apparatus is of a similar type to that described above (see Fig. 111). 
The essential feature of the machine is concerned with the stretching of the fabric 
during mercerisation. The stretching device employed consists of a number of rotating 
curved bar expanders similar to those previously described (see page 53), but built 
up with cast iron (not brass or other metal attacked by caustic soda) grooved bobbins. 
These expanding rollers carried on ball bearings are closely geared together as shown 
in Fig. 113 and they serve to stretch the fabric passing between them to its full width. 
According to the system of alkali recovery used, the frame carrying the expanding 
rollers may be wholly or partly immersed in flowing water or the fabric between the 
rollers may be sprayed with washing water. With such a machine as that shown, it 
is possible to recover about 90% of the alkali used. The machine requires about 
10 to 12 h.p. 


CHAPTER III 
MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 


Faprics of all materials may be printed, but the printing of cotton materials is 
carried out to a greater extent and is of much greater importance than is the printing 
of wool, linen and silk. Further, the machinery employed for printing cotton is 
essentially the same as that employed for other textile materials, so that it will only be 
necessary to deal here with cotton printing machinery and indicate any differences 
as they arise. 

Before printing, all fabrics require preparation. This preparation will, of course, 
depend on the material of which they are composed. Woollen fabrics will be cleansed 
by scouring, silk materials by soaping and cotton fabrics by kiering and bleaching. 
Much of the machinery employed for preparing fabrics for printing is therefore similar 
to that used in treating these materials before dyeing and finishing, and has been 
described in Chapter I. Before printing cotton fabrics, however, a few additional 
processes are necessary so that the fabric may be completely freed from motes and 
loose fibres and also so that its warp and weft yarns may be straightened ready for 
the reception of a printed design. These processes are carried out in moting, shearing, 
brushing, cutting and short stretching machines. 


PREPARING MACHINES 


Brushing Machines.—Fig. 114 shows a vertical brushing machine (Mather and 
Platt) for treating cotton fabrics before printing. Fig. 115 is a sectional view of the 
same machine. The machine essentially consists of a sheet iron chamber containing 
eight revolving brushing rollers arranged in two vertical sets of four each with an 
exhaust fan and batching rollers at the delivery end. Fabric entering the machine 
passes over tension rails and one or more guide rollers, upwards between the revolving 
brushes which remove loose impurities from both sides of the fabric and is then batched 
up outside the machine. . 

The brushes are similar to those shown in Fig. 116 and are bristled spirally. It 
is obvious that the efficiency of brushing is dependent on the pressure of the brushes 
against the fabric, and for this reason arrangements are provided by which this pressure 
may be varied. In Fig. 115 the four right-hand brushes are attached to a sliding 
frame, whose position can be varied laterally by rotation of the lower left-hand control 
wheel; rotation of the control wheel, to which is attached a vertical chain, operates 
four adjustable screw motions (upper and lower, on both sides of the machine) which 
force the brushes to or away from the fabric. 

Sheet iron dust guards are hinged over each brush, thereby preventing the dust 
removed by one brush from falling on to the brush beneath and also directing the 
dust to the dust boxes situated at the base of the machine, the latter being in com- 
munication with a small exhaust fan for removing the whole of the dust formed within 
the machine. 

Large doors provided in the side of the enclosure give easy access to the interior 
of the machine for purposes of cleaning and, when desired, any brush may be readily 
withdrawn through the side of the machine after first taking off the attached pulley 
and the cover fixing on the opposite end. 

The driving power is about 3 h.p. and the speed of the fabric through the machine 
about 80 to 100 yards per minute. 

Horizontal brushing machines are also made, but these are constructed on principles 

8 113 ; 


114 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


similar to those of the vertical machines. It will be recognised, however, that when 
fabric passes through a brushing machine in a horizontal direction a horizontal dust 
tray is required underneath the fabric and the upper set of brushes. Hence the 
pressure of the fabric against the brushes cannot be obtained by adjustment of the 


Fic. 114.—VeErticaL BRusHING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


upper and lower sets of brushes to or away from each other as in the vertical brushing 
machine. In horizontal machines, therefore, the positions of the brushes are fixed 
and their pressure on the fabric is obtained by adjustment of guide rails, which press 
against the fabric within the machine. 

Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine-—A more elaborate type of cleaning 
machine for cotton fabrics is the Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING Its 


(Mather and Platt) shown in Figs. 116 and 1164. Fabric entering the machine passes 
over a brake roller, A (Fig. 116a), by which the tension of the fabric is adjusted, being 
proportional to the frictional force exerted by the weighted leather belt shown in 
Fig. 116. The fabric then passes in contact with two revolving brushes, D and E, 
whereby it is brushed on one side, then over the beater, F, and thus beaten on the 
other side, and is then brushed by means of G and H and again beaten by K, disposed 


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Fig. 115.—SEectTion oF VERTICAL BRUSHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


such that both sides of the fabric receive equal treatment. Subsequently the fabric 
is well brushed on alternate sides by means of brushes L and M, which press the fabric 
against small adjustable and adjacent iron rollers and the fabric then passes between 
two inclined mouthpieces, P and Q, from which issues a blast of air for the purpose 
of sweeping off all traces of dust from the fabric. The fabric is finally batched up 
outside the machine at R. 

The brushes D and E, G and H revolve in opposite directions and their pressure 
against the fabric is varied by adjustment of their bearings by means of the sliding 
end plates shown in Fig. 116. On the other hand, brushes L and M are fixed, their 


116 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


pressure against the fabric being regulated by adjustment of the small adjacent iron 
rollers. ! 

Each of the beaters F and K comprises three light rods attached by means of 
leather straps to a central shaft. Rotation of the shaft causes the rods to fly out- 
wards and strike the full width of the fabric with a quick succession of light elastic 
blows, sufficient to dislodge the dust which it contains. 


Fie. 116.—Ciotre Bratinc, BRUSHING AND CLEANING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


The machine is enclosed in a sheet iron hood and the dust formed within is removed 
by means of a small exhaust fan in communication with outlet C and suction boxes 
Nand O. The blast of air for P and Q is supplied by the small blower shown in the 
bottom left-hand corner of Fig. 116. 

The driving power of the machine is about 5 h.p. and deals with fabric at the 
rate of about 80 yards per minute. The machine is suitable for treating both 


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MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 119 


bleached and grey fabrics, but for the latter it is usual to replace the four brushes 
D, E, G and H by an equal number of scrapers, the severity of treatment being 
thereby increased. In Fig. 116 plaiting down motion is shown as an alternative to 
batching-up. 

Four-cutter Shearing Machine.—Improvement of the surface of fabrics previous 
to printing is also effected by shearing or cutting off the nap and loose fibres. This is 
carried out by passing fabric over a number (2 to 6) of rotating cutters, the fabric 
being afterwards brushed. A four-cutter machine (Mather and ea is shown in 
Figs. 117 and 118. 

Cutters consist of steel rollers on which are spirally mounted a number (usually 
six) of steel cutting blades having ground edges. The faces of the blades are also 
milled after the fashion of a file so that they may seize fibres projecting from the fabric. 


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TOTAL WIDTH OVERALL ABOUT 6-3" 


SIDE ELEVATION 


Fic. 118.—ConstTrRvucTION or FouR-cUTTER SHEARING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


The operation of the four-cutter machine is better seen by reference to a sectional 
view of a one-cutter machine shown in Fig. 119. <A is a six-bladed cutter against 
which the travelling fabric is pressed by the adjustable faller beam, C. At the point 
of contact of the cutter with the travelling fabric is a ledger blade (a flat steel blade), 
and this latter is ground slightly hollow and bedded down to the cutter blades. The 
cutter rotates against the ledger blade so that projecting fibres on the fabric are seized 
and removed at the point where the cutter blades meet the ledger blade. Loose 
fibres adhering to the cutter are removed by a leather flap which presses on the side 
of the cutter remote from the ledger blade. 

Even wear of the cutting blades is obtained by giving a traversing motion to the 
cutter. Further, by means of a foot pedal acting through levers, the fabric may be 
lifted clear of the cutter whenever a seam or sewing in the fabric passes through the 
machine. 

Fig. 118 shows the passage of fabric through the machine such that only one side 
is sheared. Shearing machines are frequently constructed so that both sides of the 
fabric are sheared. After shearing, the fabric is brushed on both sides by the revolving 


120 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


brushes shown and is then batched on a roller. The normal rate of shearing fabrics 
for printing is 70 to 80 yards per minute. 

Shearing machines are generally enclosed and provided with an exhaust fan for 
removing the dust and fluff produced. 

Mote Clearing Machine.—Instead of brushing and cutting, fabric may be effectively 
cleaned by subjection to the action of rollers covered with emery, and a suitable machine 
for this purpose is shown in Fig. 120. This is a horizontal machine, but when desired 
it can be constructed as a vertical machine. Fabric entering the machine passes 
over tension and scrimp rails (see page 55) and between a number of wooden rollers 
covered with emery paper; it is then brushed and afterwards plaited down. The 
machine is enclosed within a sheet iron hood and dust is removed by means of a small 
exhaust fan. The emery rollers are positively driven and the fabric is drawn through 


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Fic. 119.—SEcTION oF SINGLE-CUTTER SHEARING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


the machine by means of the draw drum and pressing roller shown at the delivery 
(right-hand) end of the machine. 

About 4 h.p. is required for this machine and fabric may be treated at about 80 
yards per minute. 

Canroy Machine.—Before printing, cotton fabric is run through a Canroy machine 
such as that shown in Fig. 121, and in passing through this machine the fabric is given 
a final brushing and rolled evenly and tightly ready for printing. The construction 
of the machine is comparatively simple, consisting of two spiral brushes driven by 
rope and pulleys in connection with fast and loose pulleys. Fabric entering the 
machine passes between tension rails, between the two rotating brushes, and is then 
batched-up. Two adjustable rollers are fitted for the purpose of regulating the pressure 
of the brushes on the surface of the fabric. 

Clip Stretching Machine.—As a means of straightening fabrics the clip stretching 
machine such as that shown in Fig. 122 is frequently used. In various forms this machine 


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124 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


is commonly known as a stenter; it has been referred to on page 108 in connection 
with mercerising machines and in a more elaborate form will be described on page 181 
as an important machine for finishing fabrics. It will be convenient, however, to 
deal here with the fundamental principles of the design of stentering machines. 

From Fig. 122 it will be seen that the machine essentially consists of two cast iron 
rails, each carrying an endless chain of clips such as those shown in Fig. 126. Two 
races are provided on each rail for the travelling clip chain, and the chains are driven 
by horizontal sprocket wheels, shown at the delivery end of the machine. 

During preparation, dyeing or other treatment, fabrics usually shrink in width, 
while their weft threads become askew. The clip stretching machine must be capable 
of stretching the fabric to its correct width and straightening the weft threads so that 
they are at right angles to the length of the fabric. For these purposes the machine 
is fitted with devices so that the distance between the clip chains may be varied and 
also so that one clip chain may be temporarily allowed to travel faster or slower than 
the other. The former device allows stretching the fabric to a desired width, and 
the latter allows straightening of weft threads. 

Referring to Figs. 122 and 123, it is seen that the rails are carried on blocks engaging 
in screwed cross rails, operated by hand wheels. In the machine shown in Fig. 122 
three cross rails with three hand wheels are shown. By rotation of the hand wheels 
the distance between the clip rails may be adjusted as desired. Further, each clip 
rail consists of sections so that the rails may be made divergent or convergent at 
either end as desired. Usually the rails are adjusted to be divergent at that end 
where the fabric enters so that the fabric is gradually stretched to its correct width. 

Various devices are employed to allow the clip chains to run at different speeds. 
Usually it is only possible to accelerate or retard the rate of one clip chain; the other 
runs at aspeed determined by the motor driving the machine. One method is illustrated 
in Fig. 123, which shows one end of a clip stretching machine. F and G are pairs of 
bevel wheels which drive the clip chains above them and are driven by the rotating 
shafts D and E. It is noted that D and E are separate shafts, D being driven through 
the left-hand spur wheel from the main drive, while E is driven by the right-hand 
spur wheel, which is ultimately driven by the cone pulley B. In operation, the left- 
hand clip chain is driven at a definite rate as determined by the main drive through D. 
At the same time D drives cone pulley A and this in turn drives cone pulley B, so, 
that this finally rotates E and drives the clip chain over G. By means of a hand 
wheel the position of the belt connecting the two cone pulleys A and B may be varied 
and so accelerate or retard the rate of travel of the clip chain over G as compared with 
the rate of travel of the clip chain over F. This method of causing the clip chains 
to travel at different rates is satisfactory, but is not to be preferred to that shown in 
Fig. 122. 

In the machine shown in Fig. 122, the rear clip chain travels at constant speed 
while the nearer one is capable of acceleration or retardation, and the variable speed 
device consists of a differential gear shown above the sprocket wheel and operated 
by the rotation of the upper hand wheel shown in the centre of the machine. The 
differential gear is more clearly shown by reference to Fig. 185 on page 181. E and F 
are sprocket wheels which draw their respective clip chains along the side rails of the 
machine, their motion being obtained through the rotating shaft, D. It will be noticed 
that whereas E is directly driven through the bevel gear wheels O and M, sprocket 
wheel F receives its motion indirectly through the differential above it. This differential 


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126 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 127 


is similar to that employed on motor-cars, so that when G is rotated the rate of 
rotation of the sprocket wheel F is made slightly greater or less than the rate of 
rotation of N according to the direction of rotation of G. 


BRAKE LEVER->- 


Fic. 125.—ConstrRucTION OF DIFFERENTIAL GEAR FOR CLIP STRETCHING MACHINE (SiR J. 
Farmer, NORTON AND CO.). 


A third method for varying the speed of travel of a clip chain is shown in Figs. 124 
and 125 and has the advantage that its action is instantaneous. In this device the 
clip chain wheel (sprocket wheel) is indirectly driven through rotation of the shaft 
H, A and B are loose pivoted spur wheels attached respectively to M and N and in © 


128 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


mesh with spur wheel C, which in turn drives the sprocket wheel through the bevel 
gear Rand T. By asimple movement of the brake lever, the motion of either M or N 
may be arrested and this operates the worm gear R and T so that the speed of the 
sprocket wheel is accelerated or retarded. 


Fic. 126.—STENTER Ciip (MATHER AND PLATT). 


There are many types of clips, their design being dependent on their use for the 
stretching of heavy or fragile fabrics, but their general construction may be seen 
from Figs. 126 and 127. Each clip consists of a tongue, A, and a pawl, B, the tongue 


Fic. 127.—ConstTRUCTION OF STENTER CLIP (MATHER AND PLATT). 


being free to swing about a horizontal hinge-pin so as to lift the pawl clear of the 
bed-plate on which the fabric rests and which is slotted as shown in Fig. 126. As the 
clips pass around the sprocket wheels at each end of the chain races, the tongue of 
each clip is temporarily forced backwards by contact with a stationary projecting 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 129 


steel bar fixed around each sprocket wheel, and is thereby lifted, thus allowing fabric 
to be fed into the clip and lie on the bed-plate between the double pawl and the two 
slots below. When receding from the sprocket wheel, the tongue falls, but is pre- 
vented from sinking into the slots underneath by the fabric as shown in the left hand 


Fic. 128.—AcTION oF A STENTER Cuip (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND Co.). 


of Fig. 127; the fabric therefore remains ungripped. However, since the side rails 
at the entering end of the stenter frame are divergent, the fabric gradually recedes 
from the clip and thus uncovers the slots, thereby allowing the tongue to fall and 
securely grip the fabric. In this manner it is only the selvedge of the fabric which 


Fic. 129.—STENTER Ciip (CLAY AND ATKINSON). 


is held by the clips. When the clips reach the delivery end of the stenter frame, the 
pivoted portion of the clip is again temporarily forced back and the fabric thus released. 
The operation of the clip is also clearly shown in Fig. 128. 
Clips are usually built of a malleable iron body fitted with a brass bed-plate, tongue 
and pawl. A clip must be well designed, for it can easily do much damage to fabric. 
9 


130 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The grip of the clip on the fabric is determined by the design of the pawl and slot 
and also by the edge of the tongue, which may be tapered or wedge-shaped. If this 
grip is too keen, damage to the selvedge is certain to occur. These two types of 
tongue are shown in Figs. 129 and 130. In the clip shown in Fig. 129, the pressure 


Fic, 130.—STENTER CLip (CLAY AND ATKINSON). 


Fic. 131.—RIvETED STENTER CLIps (CLAY AND ATKINSON). 


of the tongue is exerted on only a thin line of the fabric, whereas in the clip shown in 
Fig. 130, the pressure is exerted over the larger area of the wedge. In forming the 
endless chains it is usual to rivet the clips together as shown in Fig. 131. Wear in 
these holes is minimised by lining them with steel bushes. Rotation of the rivets 
accompanied with corresponding excessive wear, is avoided by the use of wedge rivets 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 131 


as shown in Figs. 129 and 131. It will be readily understood that since the chain 
races and clips require oil lubrication there is always a danger that oil stains may be 
formed on the fabric. For this reason the rivet shown in Fig. 132 is covered with a 
spring oil cap; oil is thus confined to the rivet. 

Preparing Ranges.—Before printing, fabric is frequently prepared or mordanted, 
and since it is desirable to do this in a continuous manner, the preparing range shown 
in Fig. 133 is generally used. This machine consists of a padding mangle and a set 
of horizontal drying cylinders. The fabric enters the machine by way of overhead 
tension rails and then through the padding mangle, over the curved bar expanders 
and is then dried on the cylinders and plaited down. The mangle is usually provided 
with two bowls, the upper one of wood or indiarubber and the lower one of brass, the 
pressure of the bowls being obtained by means of the compound levers and weights as 
shown. In Fig. 133 the wooden 
trough under the lower roller of the 
mangle is not shown; the trough is 
for the purpose of holding such liquor 
with which it is desired to impregnate 
the fabric. Since the speed of the 
drying cylinders is determined by 
the speed of the mangle, their drive 
is taken from the cross shaft of the 
mangle and further adjustment is 
obtained by means of cone pulleys. 

Another preparing range is partly 
shown in Fig. 134, and this consists 
of a stenter frame provided with hot 
air for drying (see page 181). The 
main features of this machine are 
similar to those of the Clip Stretching 
Frame already described (page 120). 
Fabric passes through the machine 
from left to right, is suitably impregnated in the mangle and then partially dried by 
passage over a few drying cylinders. These cylinders enable the machine to be 
driven at high speed, since they assist the drying of the selvedges, which are otherwise 
hable to pass through the stenter clips somewhat damp. Leaving the drying cylinders, 
the fabric passes over a weft straightening and compensating device, whose con- 
struction is better seen in Fig. 135, through the stenter frame, where it is dried by 
means of jets of hot air directed upon it from above and below and is then batched 
on a roller. 

The weft straightener essentially consists of a number of rollers whose relation to 
each other may be altered by means of the hand wheel shown in Fig. 135, so that they 
are either parallel or form a cone or pyramid, the apex of which may be at either 
side of the device. It is obvious that when fabric is passed at a constant speed around 
a conical roller one side of it will travel at a slower speed than the other, although 
the rate of travel of the fabric as a whole will be unaltered. The device therefore 
allows askew weft threads in the fabric to be straightened, it being merely necessary 
to adjust the position of the rollers so that they suitably diverge and thereby straighten 
the weft threads of the fabric before reaching the stenter. From what has been 


Fic. 132.—OtmL-PROTECTED STENTER Crip Rivet (Sir J. 
Farmer, NORTON AND Co.). 


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132 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 133 


previously said, the straightening of the weft threads can be accomplished in the 
stenter frame itself, but it is obviously better to reduce the work of the stenter by 
this preliminary straightening. The compensating device essentially consists of the 


STENTER. 


Fie. 135.—Wert STRAIGHTENER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


lower roller in Fig. 134. This roller is free to slide in a vertical plane and it therefore 
falls or rises as the rate of travel of the fabric through the stenter is less or greater 
than its rate of travel over the drying cylinders. 


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134 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 135 


It is desirable to include a double batching apparatus with this machine, since it 
allows continuous working of the machine, it being unnecessary to stop when inserting 
another batch roller. The hot air necessary 
for drying is delivered by a fan to mouth- 
pieces which are placed above and below the 
fabric, the multitubular air-heater being placed 
on one side of the machine or above or below 
it. The mouthpieces are under control, so 
that the air delivered to the fabric may impinge 
on one or both sides of the fabric. Usually 
this machine is of the non-jigging type (see 
page 181). When the machine is fixed in 
position it is usually enclosed by a simple 
framing so that no hot air may be washed and 
the drying carried out as economically as 
possible. 

Another type of preparing range which is 
particularly useful for fabrics printed with 
Aniline Black and Para Red differs from that 
described above in that it contains no drying 
cylinders, the drying being effected by means 
of hot air. Such a machine is shown in Figs. 
136 and 137, and consists of a sheet iron 
chamber, say 35 feet x 15 feet x 6 feet wide, 
built up on steel framing and within which is 
a number of steam chests and means for pro- 
ducing and circulating hot air. Fabric passes 
through the machine upwards and downwards, 
over and under a large number of freely 
rotating copper rollers, some of which are 
driven so as to assist the travel of the fabric. 
Hot air is provided by a fan and multitubular 
heater placed in the base of the chamber and 
is distributed by various mouthpieces through- 
out the forward end chamber. Vertical steam 
chests (see page 152) are placed at that end of 
the chamber where the fabric enters, the hot 
air being distributed at the other end where 
the fabric leaves the chamber. As the fabric 
passes between the steam chests and is exposed 
to the hot air, it is uniformly dried free from 
creases. 

Colour Mixing Pans.—Before describing 
printing machines, reference should here be 
made to Colour Mixing Pans, which are com- 
monly used for preparing the pastes used in 
printing. A range of colour mixing pans is shown in Fig. 138. Each pan is made 
of copper and is constructed with a double jacket; mechanical stirring gear driven 


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Fic. 137.—Srction or Hor Air Drying CHAMBER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


136 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


by spur wheels is also provided. By means of the double jacket, the contents 
of the pan may be heated by steam or cooled by means of cold water. The size of 
a pan is, of course, dependent on the user, but 200 gallons is considered a large capacity 


Fic. 138.—Cotour Mrxine Pans (MATHER AND PLATT). 


and suitable for the preparation of thickening pastes, whereas pans of 20 to 50 gallons 
are more frequently employed. Mechanical swivelling gear is generally provided 
with the larger sized pans. 

A useful colour mixing pan not mechanically agitated is shown in Fig. 139. This 
pan is lined with Vitralite and is thus unstainable and easily cleaned. 


oI is ee 


: 
. 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 137 


Printinc MACHINES 


The operation of printing machines will be clearly seen from Fig. 140. P is a 
colour box containing the paste which is to be printed on the fabric passing around 
the pressure bowl, D. M is a roller or “‘ furnisher ’’ which transfers the paste to the 
engraved printing roller, E, which is positively driven and serves to rotate D by 
frictional contact and M through an intermediate spur wheel. In order that excess 
of colour paste may be removed from the surface of E, this printing roller is provided 
with a colour doctor, N, which is a sharp steel blade. Another doctor, K, the lint 
doctor, is also provided for the purpose of removing loose fibres picked up by the 
printing roller when in contact with the fabric. The cleaning doctor is the more 
important, since the clarity of the printed fabric is entirely dependent on the efficiency 
with which this doctor removes colour from the smooth parts of the printing roller 
and leaves the colour within the engraved design. 


Fie. 139.—Cotour Mixinc Pan Fic. 140.—CoNsTRUCTION OF A SINGLE-COLOUR 
(LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CoO.). PRINTING MACHINE. 


The cleaning doctor is usually 2 to 3 inches wide and up to ;, inch thick, its length 
being dependent on the length of the printing roller. The edge bearing on the printing 
roller is bevelled sharply, and its pressure on this roller is adjusted by means of levers 
carrying adjustable weights. A cleaning doctor is also given a small traversing motion 
so as to make its wear even, this motion being obtained through a small eccentric drive. 

The lint doctor has no traverse motion and is usually made of brass. 

The pressure bowl, D, is usually of cast iron and is lapped with not more than 
a dozen thicknesses of a linen-wool union fabric, F. Further, the fabric C being 
printed is always supported by a blanket, A. Staining of the blanket is largely avoided 
by means of the back-grey, B. Printed fabric C, back-grey B and blanket A pass 
through the printing machine together, being directed to the pressure bowl by the 
freely-rotating drag roller, R. The various fabrics additional to the printed fabric 
are for the purpose of giving the printing surface elasticity. X, Y and Z are freely- 
rotating guide rollers. 


138 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl D is obtained by means of 
springs or compound levers in much the same manner as in mangles, both types of 


Fig. 141.—ConstRUcTION OF A MULTI- 
COLOUR PRINTING MACHINE. 


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pressure being shown in Fig. 149. 

Such a machine as is shown in Fig. 140 can 
be used for printing one colour. The arrange- 
ment of a multicolour printing machine is that 
shown in Fig. 141, lettered similarly to Fig. 140. 
Each colour requires a separate colour box com- 
plete with printing and furnishing rollers and the 
necessary doctors. In this case also, each print- 
ing roller is only engraved with portions of the 
printed design—those portions having the same 
colour. It therefore becomes necessary to provide 
arrangements whereby the printing rollers can be 
adjusted so that each printing roller is accurate 
and registers exactly with the whole design. For 
this purpose, the printing roller must be capable 


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Fic. 142.—Nip ARRANGEMENT ON A PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


of lateral movement and also one or both ends of the roller must be capable of being 
raised or lowered. Further, the printing roller must be capable of independent rotation. 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 139 


With these adjustments it becomes possible to make the printing rollers register 
their portion of the design accurately. 

The method by which these adjustments can be obtained may be explained by 
reference to Fig. 142, which shows the typical arrangement of nip fittings on a printing 
machine. In the upper fitting—an end view is shown—the pressure of the printing 
roller on the pressure bowl is obtained by means of a spring shown. C is a screw 
which allows one end of the printing roller to be raised or lowered and A is a box wheel 
by means of which the printing roller may be independently rotated. 

The construction of the box wheel is more clearly shown in Fig. 143. It is here 
seen that the spur wheel, 8S, which is engaged with the star wheel (the spur wheel 
which drives all the printing rollers of the machine) is not keyed directly to the shaft, M 
(mandrel), of the printing roller, but drives the printing roller indirectly through the 


= 


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Sectional View End View 


Fie. 143.—Box WHEEL FOR PRINTING ROLLER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


worm gearing, K. Under these conditions, although rotation of the printing roller 
always occurs when the spur wheel, 8, rotates, rotation of the printing roller quite 
independent of the rotation of the spur wheel is effected by rotation of the screw, T. 
It is thus possible to rotate the printing roller as desired while the spur wheel, 8, is 
stationary. 

Lateral movement of the printing roller across the pressure bowl is obtained by 
means of screw B (Fig. 142). The furnishing roller, colour box and doctors are 
carried on nip plates (one at each side of the machine) which are adjustable (see 
below). 

The lower sectional view shows the position of the colour box, furnishing roller 
and printing rollers. In this case, the pressure of the printing roller on the pressure 
bowl is obtained by means of the lever shown on the extreme right; this lever is con- 
nected by the lower hinged rod to the compound levers fitted in the sides of the machine 
and shown in Fig. 149. The upper doctor is the colour doctor and is shown in con- 
nection with a lever and chain for adjustment of pressure. The lower doctor near to 


140 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


the pressure bowl is the lint doctor and its pressure on the printing roller is adjusted 
by means of the thumb screws shown. 

In the usual type of nip fittings, the furnishing roller, colour box, lint and colour 
doctors are carried by nip plates which are fastened to the bearing blocks for the mandrel 
of the printing roller and which also move towards or from the pressure bowl together 
with the printing roller. Under these conditions it is evident that the limited adjust- 
ments possible with the furnishing roller, colour box, etc., as described above, are not 


Colauur Dacfor 


Fic. 144.—CompounD SLIDES FOR PRINTING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


sufficient to accommodate printing rollers of varying diameter. Thus, when one 
printing roller is replaced by another of different diameter, the necessary re-arrangement 
of the furnishing roller, etc., involves fresh drilling of the nip plates. Recently, how- 
ever, improved nip fittings (Mather and Platt), usually referred to as “‘ compound 
slides,”’ have been devised and are shown in Fig. 144. Such fillings allow more adjust- 
ment of the furnishing rollers, etc., since these components are mounted on separate 

plates, which are adjustably mounted on the main nip 


rs plate; re-drilling of the nip plate is thus avoided. 
Printing 


Pallen Calico printers prefer levered nips (nip designates 
the pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl) 
Mandrel rather than springs. However, although levers and 


weights enable one to obtain a positive pressure, it is 
he 148 Suiocee ee found that levered nips cannot be applied generally to 
ROLLER (MaTHER AND PraT7). printing machines employing more than six printing 
rollers. Machines for printing in fourteen colours are 

in use and these are therefore provided with spring pressure. 

A printing roller consists of an engraved copper shell keyed on a steel shaft or 
mandrel as shown in Fig. 145. A machine for forcing a shell on a mandrel by hand 
power is shown in Fig. 146; machines driven by mechanical power are available. 

Having reviewed the principles governing the design of printing machines, we can 
now further see their construction by reference to a few illustrations of typical printing 
machines. 

Single-colour Printing Machine.—Fig. 147 shows a single-colour printing machine 
(Mather and Platt). The upper pressure bowl is carried by bearing blocks which are 


‘(iaivid 


GNV UTHLV) ANIHOVI ONIONOY THUAGNVIN— OFT “OM 


i 
i 


141 


142 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


operated by the lifting screw shown in the top of the machine and by means of which 
it can be easily raised. The spur wheel on the right-hand side of the machine is keyed 
to the mandrel and drives the printing roller. The front upper doctor is the colour 
doctor and its traverse motion is obtained by means of a worm and wheel, The lint 
doctor is at the back of the printing roller. The pressure of the lint doctor is regulated 
by the small lever shown with weight attached. The sides of the machine contain 
levers with weights for pressing the pressure bowl against the printing roller (not the 
printing roller against the pressure bowl, as is usual in multi-colour printing machines). 
Since this type of machine is driven at high speed and a high pressure is maintained 
between the printing roller and pressure bowl, both of these are carried in roller 
bearings. 


Fic. 147.—SINGLE-coLOUR PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Six-colour Printing Machine.—A six-colour machine for printing handkerchiefs is 
shown in Fig. 148. In this machine, it will be noticed that the two upper nips are 
obtained by means of springs, the other four nips by means of levered pressure, the 
levers and weights being shown in the sides of the machine. This machine also clearly 
shows the nip fittings for adjustment of the position of the printing roller, furnishing 
rollers and colour box. The pressure bowl is 3 feet in diameter and the nip fittings will 
accommodate printing rollers of 44 to 13 inches in diameter. The highest roller is a 
drag roller—not a printing roller—and its function is to bind the entering fabric against 
the pressure bowl ready for the first printing roller. A sectional view of this machine 
is also shown in Fig. 149. 

Eight-colour Printing Machine.—Fig. 150 is a diagrammatic view of an eight- 
colour handkerchief printing machine and clearly shows the disposition of the various 
parts towards the pressure bowl. In this machine, the six lower nips are obtained by 
means of levered pressure, the upper two being fitted with spring pressure. The right- 
hand top roller is a drag roller. The disposition of the levers in the sides of the 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 143 


machine is typical of all printing machines. This particular machine has a cast iron 
pressure bowl of 66 inches diameter. 

Twelve-colour Printing Machine.—Another handkerchief printing machine, suitable 
for printing in twelve colours, is shown in Fig. 151. The pressure on all the printing 
rollers is obtained by means of steel springs. Owing to the large number of printing 
rollers, the pressure bowl is constructed very large—93 inches in diameter. At the 


Fic. 148.—Stx-cotour Printinc MacHIneE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


top of the machine are shown screws for lifting either end of the pressure bowl, but 
by providing a cross shaft both ends could be lifted simultaneously. From Fig. 152, 
which shows another side of the machine, the method of driving the printing rollers 
from a central spur or star wheel is indicated. Further, this illustration shows the 
method of driving the machine through a totally enclosed worm reduction gear. 
Generally, each printing machine should be driven by a separate steam engine or 
preferably by an electric motor. It is not satisfactory to drive from shafting. If an 


144 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


electric motor is used, then this should preferably be a shunt wound direct current 


motor. Transmission of power to the printing machine is preferably accomplished 


through a worm reduction gear, since this largely eliminates noise and vibration. 


Further, a worm gearing gives a pure turning movement to the driven shaft such as is 
Worm reduction gears can be employed pro- 


not obtained by means of spur wheels. 


U 

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if 
1 


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1 
I 
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1 
1 
u 


oe 


Ee 


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1 


{ Diyey Nites 
eS eS Peer UE 


Fic. 149.—SEcTION OF SIxX-COLOUR PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


vided that the reduction is not excessive; where the reduction desired is great, then a 
combined worm and spur wheel reduction must be employed. 

Sample Printing Machine——For the printing of sample patterns it is desirable to 
have a separate machine, as interference in the output of a printing works may thus be 
avoided. Such a machine should be capable of printing patterns in several colours 
and yet be simple in construction. Fig. 153 shows a printing machine of this type. This 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 145 


machine differs considerably from the usual printing machine, since the pressure bowl 
is driven and the printing roller, having no mandrel, rests on two pairs of freely-running 
rollers (one roller of each pair being shown immediately in front of the printing roller 


LLL 


Fic. 150.—Srction or ErcutT-coLtour HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


in Fig. 153). A small colour box with furnishing roller and a colour doctor are provided. 
In operation, fabric from the left-hand batch roller is threaded between the printing 
and pressure bowl and led back to the right-hand batch roller, the slackness in the 
fabric being taken up by the compensating rollers, which consist of rollers loosely 


pivoted at one end so that they can easily rise or fall. On starting the machine, the 
10 


Fic. 151.—TWeEtvE-coLourR PRINTING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


‘(LLVIg aGNV UGHLVIA) ANIBOVIT ONILDNIYG WOAOTOO-TATAMT, WOM HAIWd NOWonday WaOM—'SgT “91 


147 


148 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


printing roller is raised by means of a cam until it comes in contact with the rotating 
pressure bowl. The printing roller then rotates and the fabric is printed. At the end 
of one revolution of the printing roller, the roller automatically lowers. The fabric 


S 
> 
2 
E 
* 
rs 
a 
ft 
x 


Fic. 153.—SAMPLE PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLaTT). 
is then drawn back by hand, any slackness being taken up by the compensator, and 
another printing roller (or shell) put in the machine. The colour in the colour box 
will also be replaced by another colour. After bringing the printing roller into exact 
register with the design, the second colour may then be printed as before. In this 
manner the printing of multicolour patterns can be rapidly carried out with a compara- 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 149 


tively simple and adaptable machine. Usually a steam chest (see page 152) is fitted 
in front of the printed fabric so that the fabric may be rapidly dried. 


TO DRYING APPARATUS 


<A oy ENTERING 
me ® Barcn 
<SCRIMP PIPE CONNECTION TO 
RAIL _{ PUMP SUCTION 
i eS 
C.I. RUBBER 


a 
1 *eh/ = 
OQ] ea) 
BYR of SUCTION CLEANING 
; ys tg APPARATUS | 
COVERED BOWL 


(74 I RUBBER DOCTOR 
AE | 
Ny, 


Oo \ 


CLEANING WATER 
INLET VALVE 


LINT CARDS 


| SUCTION 
PUMP 


FLOOR) LEVEL 


Fic. 154.—Printinc MacuInE witH SucTION WASHING DEVICE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Printing Machine with Suction Washing.—With the object of avoiding the use of 
blankets and back-greys, the Calico Printers’ Association has designed and patented 


the machine shown in Fig. 154 and as made 
by Mather and Platt. In ordinary printing 
machines, colour which penetrates the printed 
fabric is absorbed by the back-grey; in the 
machine here shown, the pressure bowl is rubber 
covered so as to have desirable elasticity, and 
since it becomes marked with colour it is washed 
with water while passing through an attached 
suction cleaning apparatus. This cleaning 
apparatus, which is the essential feature of the 
machine, consists of a hollow box extending 
across the pressure bowl and through which 
water passes and is withdrawn by the suction 
pump shown. The box itself exerts a scraping 
action on the rubber surface of the pressure 
bowl, thereby loosening adhering colour so that 
it is readily removed by the washing water. 
Further, a lint doctor in front of the washing 
apparatus removes lint. 

The washing apparatus can be applied to 
most printing machines, but has not been 
applied to wide machines or for cloth required 
to be printed on both sides. It is, however, 
particularly suitable for use with printing 
colours which are strongly alkaline or acidic. 
As is well known, soiled back-greys are washed 
and bleached after printing, and this is difficult 


c’ 
B’ 
A’ 


ih 


Jesh he 


nO) 
AD 
FO) 


B 
A ; 
A, A’ = Blankets 
A B,B’ = Back Greys 
B C =Printed Fabric 
E,E’ = Printing Rollers 
c D,D’ = Pressure Bowls 


Fic. 155.—CoNnstRucTION OF DUPLEX PRINTING 
MacuiIne (MATHER AND PLaTT). 


when the printing colour is not easy to discharge. With the rubber pressure bowl and 
washing arrangement, trouble in cleaning back-greys is avoided. Further, the surface 


Fic. 156.—Four-cotour DupLex Printing MacHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 
150 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 151 


of pressure bowl is much more uniform than that of a cast iron pressure bowl covered 
with lapping—seams are usually present in the latter. 

Duplex Printing Machines.—As yet, only printing machines adapted for printing 
fabric on one side only have been considered. It is sometimes necessary, however, 
for fabrics to be printed on both sides, and machines for this purpose are known as 
Duplex machines. 

The principle on which these machines are designed will be seen from Fig. 155. 
Such a machine consists of two sets of printing rollers and two pressure bowls, separate 
sets of blankets and back-greys traversing each pressure bowl. Fig. 156 shows a 
typical Duplex four-colour printing machine, its construction being further shown in 
Figs. 157 and 157a. The construction of the machine printing rollers, pressure bowls, 
colour boxes, etc., is similar to those of ordinary printing machines. In order that the 
design printed on one side of the fabric by the lower set of printing rollers may be in 
register with that printed by the upper set, the printing rollers are geared together. 
The pressure bowls are arranged diagonally, since this allows the shortest possible length 
of fabric between the two sets of printing rollers and correct register of the design is 
thereby facilitated. 

Sarree Printing Machines.—It is sometimes desirable to print fabrics intermittently, 
the design being repeated at intervals of, say, 2 to 16 yards. Machines for this purpose 
are known as Sarree printing machines, and they are usually constructed so that the 
printing rollers are forced back from the fabric by means of a series of specially con- 
structed cams for such periods as are desired. Sarree machines are employed for 
printing tablecloths, bedspreads and shawls. 

Blanket-washing Machines.—Although the blankets used in printing are largely 
protected by the back-grey, they become stained, particularly on the selvedges, and 
must be occasionally washed. When washable blankets are used they are washed 
between’successive printings. For this purpose, a blanket-washing machine such as that 
shown in Fig. 158 is commonly employed. The machine consists of a central independ- 
ently driven rotating copper drum of large diameter against which press a number, 
usually three or four, of rotating brushes, and a trough which may be raised or lowered 
during cleaning or inspection of the brushes. Spurt pipes are also provided in the 
machine for dashing water on the fabric. As the blanket is drawn through the machine 
by means of drying cylinders which follow and work in conjunction with the machine, 
it passes round the copper drum and is thoroughly scrubbed by the brushes fed with 
water. As the washed blanket leaves the machine it is brushed by a softer rapidly 
rotating brush, which partially dries it. In order to wash the selvedges more 
thoroughly, the machine is sometimes fitted with revolving vertical brushes, which 
press against the edges of the blanket. After washing, the blanket passes over 
drying cylinders and then over cooling cylinders before return to the printing 
machine. 

Machinery for Treating Fabrics after Printing.—After printing, fabric is dried pre- 
vious to the various subsequent operations of washing and chloring, dunging, soaping 
and steaming (in the case of discharge patterns which require steaming for their 
completion). 

Drying Machines.—Drying may be effected by passing the printed fabric over 
drying cylinders, by means of steam chests or of hot air, or more generally by a 
combination of these methods. The printed fabric should be partially dried before 
passage over drying cylinders so that smudging or streaking of the design may 


152 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


be avoided. Drying cylinders, of course, are the most economical method of 
drying. 

Steam chests are sheet steel boxes which may be of any size, but are seldom more 
than 1 inch in thickness and are capable of containing steam under pressure. Thus a 


ioe 
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Fic. 157.—Sxction or Four-coLtour DuPLex PRiIntTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT), 


steam chest may be about 3 feet wide, 6 feet long and 4 to 1 inch thick. A steam chest 

drying plant comprises a number of these steam chests connected to a supply of high 

pressure steam and arranged parallel to each other. The fabric is guided up and down 

between, but not in contact with the steam chests, so that it is dried by radiant heat. 
Drying cylinders have been previously described (see page 61). 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 153 


Chest and Cylinder Drying Apparatus.—Figs. 159, 160, 161 and 162 show some typical 
apparatus for drying printed fabric. In Fig. 159 is shown a Chest and Cylinder Drying 
apparatus, with which is combined a blanket-washing machine. In this apparatus, 
fabric leaving the printing machine situated to the left of the drying plant soon passes 


UML LAS 


Ya 


4) 
“3 


Yi o 
Fic. 157a.—FRONT VIEW OF Four-coLouR DupLex PrintiInG MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


over the drying cylinders, but not before it is partially dried by radiant heat. This 
partial drying is obtained by passing the printed fabric between steam chests shown 
on the extreme right of the cylinders; it then passes around the block of cylinders, being 
guided by the rollersshown. The blanket, after washing, is dried on the smaller number 
of drying cylinders shown. 


154 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Fig. 160 shows a drying plant depending on hot air only and Fig. 161 one using 
steam chests combined with hot air. Fig. 162 indicates the lay out of a plant for drying 
fabric printed on Duplex machines, the drying being effected by means of steam chests 
and drying cylinders, the plant also necessarily comprising two blanket-washing 
machines. 


Fic. 158.—BLanket WaAsHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Ageing and Steaming Machines.—Full development of the colours of printed fabrics 
is generally obtained by passing the fabric through a chamber heated from 50 to 104 
degrees C. and containing a moist atmosphere. In the case of discharging pastes which 
are effective by reason of their reducing action, the chamber must be freed from air as 
much as possible. The moisture content of the chamber is determined by the nature 


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156 


Fic. 160.—Hor Arr Dryine APPARATUS FoR PRINTED Fasrics (MATHER AND PLATT.) 


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159 


160 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


of the printed effects. Thus much moisture is required in the development of indigo 
patterns. 

Generally, steaming chambers are built up of cast iron plates, or iron sheet mounted 
on steel framing, and contain upper and lower rows of rotating metal (usually copper) 
rollers. The fabric passes up and down, under and over the rollers, generally entering 
and leaving the chamber at the same mouthpiece. The heat of the chamber is main- 
tained by high pressure steam, which passes through serpentine coils usually placed 
in the bottom and top of the chamber. A number of steam chests may also be included 
in the chamber. Moisture and heat are also supplied by live steam discharged into the 
chamber through perforated copper pipes. As it is most important that no drops of 
water arising from the condensed steam should be thrown upon the fabric, the steam 
pipes are constructed as shown in Fig. 163. In this construction, inner and outer 
concentric perforated pipes are used, the 
perforations of the inner pipe being on the 
side opposite to those in the outer one. 
As a further precaution against water drops, 
the steam supply should be passed through 
it Nea Ia, a steam dryer (see page 314) before entrance 
Seca Be ie to the chamber. Water drops arising from 
steam condensing on the roof of the 
chamber must also be guarded against— 
usually by including steam coils in the roof 
fry oe Heated so as to maintain it at a high temperature. 

i Pann Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine.—Fig. 
B.....Copper swivel pipe J 

prepared with steam 164 shows a modern type of steaming 

and water connections. apparatus suitable for treating fabrics 

printed with hydrosulphite pastes and also 

for developing fabrics padded for Aniline 

7 Black. This machine is built of cast iron 

plates and contains most of the accessories 

Fic. 165.—MovutTHPIECE OF HyDROSULPHITE noted above. The difficulty of water- 

AGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). p : ; 2 

dropping is overcome by including steam- 
heated steam chests in the roof of the chamber, condensation of steam thereby being 
prevented. The rollers are drawn copper tubes, the upper row being driven and 
the lower row free to rotate. An important feature of the machine is the mouthpiece 
through which the fabric enters and leaves the machine. This mouthpiece is con- 
structed as shown in Fig. 165. It consists of a steam-heated hollow copper oval pipe 
which swivels between the heated (by means of steam pipes, A) mouthpiece, which can 
thus be almost completely closed while allowing the entrance and exit of the fabric. 
The inclination of the oval pipe is determined by the travelling fabric and a small 
weighted lever as shown. 

The chamber is provided with an outside drying cylinder as shown in Fig. 164 with 
the object of partially drying the entering fabric. Perforated steam pipes are fitted in 
both top and bottom of the chamber. The bearings of the rollers are fitted outside 
the machine such that they allow the rollers to be withdrawn and replaced from outside 
the chamber. The ventilation of the chamber also deserves consideration. In the 
ventilating system shown, the chamber is connected to the outside atmosphere through 
a large diameter sheet iron pipe fitted with butterfly valves. When the top valve is 


V4? 


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Z 
y 


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Radiating Pipe 


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161 


Steam Pipe 


Fic. 166.—Looprp Fasric AGEING MacHIne (MaTHER AND PLAt77). 


162 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


closed, air freely enters the chamber; when both valves are closed, no air enters the 
chamber and it soon becomes almost air-free and is then suitable for steaming hydro- 
sulphite (reducing) discharges. 

The total length of fabric in the chamber (22 x 10 x 6 feet) shown is about 200 
yards. The machine requires about 3 h.p. 

Looped Fabric Ageing Chamber.—Another type of steaming and ageing machine 
(see page 69) is shown in Fig. 166, and it differs from that described above in that the 
fabric in its passage through the chamber does not pass over a number of rotating 
rollers but is carried on rods which travel along the top of the machine. When the 
fabric enters the machine, it forms a loop which reaches to within a short distance from 
the bottom of the chamber and is then caught by a rod which has advanced into its 
correct position, being carried thereto by a travelling chain. The fabric then forms 
another loop, and this in turn is caught by another rod which has advanced into position. 
As the rods travel along the top of the machine, the chamber becomes filled with loops 
of fabric as shown in Fig. 166. When the rods reach the end of their travel along the 
top of the machine, they drop down and are carried downwards and along the bottom 
of the chamber by the travelling chain until they again meet the entering fabric and 
once more carry it forward in loops. Meanwhile, with the dropping of the rods the 
fully steamed fabric passes out of a mouthpiece in the roof of the chamber. 

In machines of this type the design must allow the fabric to be carried without jerks 
or varying tension, and it is desirable that the rods can be easily removed for purposes 
of cleaning. 

Steaming Cottage.—Fig. 167 shows a steaming cottage (Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co.) 
which is employed for steaming fabrics whose printed designs are better developed at 
high temperatures. The cottage itself is made of steel plates, a cavity being formed 
in the top and to which steam is admitted at a pressure higher than that employed 
for steaming—water drops due to condensed steam are thus avoided. The cottage 
is heated by high pressure steam circulating through closed steam coils, and the 
necessary moisture is obtained by injection of live steam. The entrance to the cottage 
is closed by a cast iron or steel door, which is raised or lowered by means of chains and 
balance weights. The fabric is not led directly into the cottage but is first suspended in 
loops from rollers fixed on a movable trolley. When the trolley is filled, it is pushed 
into the cottage, the door lowered and secured and steaming effected at any desired ~ 
temperature and over any period of time. It is thus evident that a steaming cottage 
does not allow fabrics to be treated continuously. Roller markings on the fabric are 
often prevented by interleaving it with grey fabric. The rollers supporting the fabric 
may be rotated occasionally during the steaming by means of the handle shown 
protruding from the machine. 

Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Dunging Machines.—After printing and steaming, 
whereby most of the chemical reactions which occur in the printed parts are completed, 
further treatment of the fabric is necessary. Thus, fabrics printed with Aniline Black 
effects are passed through a solution of bichromate for the purpose of making this 
colour ungreenable, effects obtained by means of basic colours must be fixed by passage 
of the fabric through a bath containing tartar emetic, fabrics containing white effects 
are passed through a weak solution of a bleaching liquor in order to make the whites 
quite clear, printed fabrics which are to be overdyed are generally passed through a 
dunging solution in order to free the fabric from impurities which would hinder its free 
absorption of a dye liquor, and in most instances the printed fabric is finally washed and 


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164 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 165 


soaped before drying and finishing. These various treatments may be effected when 
the fabric is in open width or rope form, treatment in open width yielding more uniform 
results, while treatment in rope form can be carried out more rapidly. 


Fic. 169.—BEATERS FOR WASHING MACHINES (MATHER AND PLATT). 


When fabric in open width must be subjected to several treatments, it is advan- 
tageous to carry these out consecutively in one machine. A machine which is largely 
used for simultaneously fixing (say basic colours with tartar emetic), clearing 


Fic. 170.—BEaTERS FoR WASHING 
Macuines (Sir J. Farmer, 
NoRTON AND Co.). 


whites with a bleaching liquor, soaping and washing is 
shown in Figs. 168, 1684. The machine consists of a 
number of cast iron tanks constructed so as to form a 
range, mangle rollers, generally of brass and rubber, 
being placed between each two tanks. In each tank are 
upper and lower rows of freely rotating metal rollers, 
over and under which the fabric travels in its passage 
through the machine. In passing from one tank to the 
next, the fabric is given a moderate nip. The penetration 
of the fabric is considerably assisted by the use of 
beaters, which are fitted as shown in Fig. 169. These 


-beaters consist of a number (usually about four) of 


polished brass rods mounted on a shaft as shown, and while being driven at high 
speed they dash the liquor in the tank against and into the fabric. Alternatively, the 
beaters may consist of freely-swivelling buckets as shown in Fig. 170 and used in the 


machine shown in Fig. 171. 


ae 
2 — | é 
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-MALTING — 


— Fusing - —STEAm Box— — Fixing 


Fig. 171.—WasuHina, Fixina, CHLORING AND Martina MacHINE WITH TIME WHEEL (Sir J. Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). 


as -—T 


MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 167 


In using the above described machine, it is usual to separate the different treatments 
by one or perhaps two tanks containing water, so that one treating liquor is not carried 
by the fabric into the succeeding treating liquor. The last tank usually contains flowing 
water, and on emerging from this the fabric is mangled and dried over drying cylinders. 

Dunging ranges are constructed in much the same manner as the continuous washing 
and treating machine, except that only one nip is employed—the one attached to the 
first washing tank—it being undesirable to press loose impurities into the fabric. 

Machines for dyeing, washing and soaping printed fabrics in rope form are similar 
to those previously described (see page 33). 

A machine specially adapted for the after-treatment of printed fabrics is shown in 
Fig. 171, and in it fabrics may be fixed, washed, malted, soaped and again washed. That 
portion which allows a malt treatment is of particular interest. The removal of starch 
materials from fabrics is usually effected after treatment with a malt extract whereby 
the starch is liquefied, but since the liquefaction occupies several minutes it is not 
generally possible to carry out this process in a continuous manner. The machine 
shown in Fig. 171 is provided with a time wheel radially divided into compartments, 
and these are closed by means of an endless blanket. In operating the machine, the 
time wheel rotates slowly, while a definite amount of the fabric passing through the 
machine is delivered from an overhead winch into each compartment of the wheel 
successively. The wheel rotates within a tank containing a malt liquor so that the 
fabric is exposed to its action for a considerable and suitable period of time, although 
the rate of travel of the fabric through the whole machine is relatively fast. After 
making almost one revolution each compartment in turn emerges from the blanket 
and the fabric is then drawn forward through the remaining washing tanks. 


CHAPTER IV 
FINISHING MACHINERY 


AFTER bleaching, dyeing or printing, fabrics usually have an unpleasing appearance 
due to irregular shrinkage and extension associated with displacement of the warp and 
weft threads. Most fabrics have therefore to pass through numerous finishing processes 
whereby these defects are corrected and the appearance of the fabric is made as attrac- 
tive as possible. Further, for the purpose of giving fabrics a solid appearance, necessary 
weight and a desired handle, they are generally impregnated with solutions or pastes 
containing suitable ingredients. All these operations are effected by means of 
various types of finishing machinery, among which are some excellent examples of 
engineering skill. 

STRETCHING AND CONDITIONING MACHINES 

Belt Stretching Machine.—Generally all fabrics contract in width during bleaching, 
dyeing and printing, so that one part of the finishing process consists of stretching the 
fabric to any desired width. Stenter frames are particularly suitable for this purpose, 
but as an auxiliary machine the so-called Belt Stretching Machine is very useful. A 
modern type of belt stretching machine (Edmeston) is shown in Fig. 172 and its con- 
struction may be better understood from the smaller Fig. 173. The machine comprises 
five large stretching pulleys, A and C, mounted on a driven shafting. The outer pulleys, 
C, adjustably inclined to each other, are faced with indiarubber and may be separated 
by any desired distance to accommodate the width of the fabric passing through the 
machine. Endless leather or indiarubber bands passing around small pulleys press 
tightly against the faces of C. B are smaller pulley wheels which may be moved to or 
from A. When the machine is in operation, fabric is delivered on the side where distance 
between C and C is narrow and then passes under the pulley wheels, the selvedges 
being gripped between the travelling belts and the lined faces of C and C. When the 
fabric has reached the front of the machine, its width corresponds to the widest distance 
between C and C and has therefore been stretched, so that it is then batched up on a 
roller. The wheels A are for the purpose of supporting the fabric, and when assistance 
for the stretching of the middle portion of the fabric is required, the wheels B are 
adjusted so that they also press against the fabric, but on its other face. 

It will be observed that the selvedges of fabric being gripped by the travelling belt 
are not subjected to stretching, as is the remainder of the fabric and, further, owing 
to the pressure upon them they tend to become hardened. This defect is overcome in 
the machine shown by passing the fabric, as it leaves the stretching pulleys, between two 
pairs of corrugated wheels whose position on the lateral shafts is adjustable so that their 
pressure on the selvedges softens these. Such a belt stretching machine is capable of 
dealing with 120 yards of fabric per minute, but it is usual to work at lower speeds. 
Generally, cotton fabric is calendered before stretching. 

Short Conditioning and Stentering Machines.—The stretching of dry cotton fants 
does not yield very permanent results, better results being obtained by stretching fabric 
when under the combined influence of heat and moisture. Fig. 174 shows a short 
Conditioning Stenter suitable for stretching fabrics under such conditions ; it is usually 
not more than 50 feet long. This machine is similar in construction to the Clip Stretch- 
ing machine previously described (see page 120), being fitted with clip chains, one of 
which, by means of a differential motion, may be adjusted to travel temporarily at a 
slower or faster rate than the other, thereby allowing straightening of the weft threads 


to be effected. Underneath the entering end are placed perforated steam pipes 
168 


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FINISHING MACHINERY Vat 


contained in boxes covered with fine gauze, and by means of the steam rising there- 
from the fabric may be moistened. Further along but under the machine are gas jets 
or gilled steam heating pipes, so that the ascending hot air dries the moistened fabric 
while it is being stretched to its correct width. In this way, more or less permanently 
stretched fabric is batched up at the delivery end. 


a 
NCHESTER 


ATHER & PLATT LIDME 


oan 2 a 


k 


Fic. 175.—BrusH Damping MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Damping Machines.—The moistening of cotton fabrics during processes of finishing 
is an important operation and is generally known as “ conditioning.” For instance, 
dry fabric subjected to heavy pressure and heat assumes a board-like handle which is 
not obtained with pre-moistened fabric. Hence damping machines by means of which 
fabric can be moistened to an approximately known extent are to be found in all 
finishing works. The usual construction of these machines allows fabric, travelling 
in open width, to be sprayed with a fine mist or spray of water, and such machines 


172 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


only differ essentially in the method by which the spray is produced. In one common 
type the spray is obtained by means of a brush revolving rapidly in a trough of water 
and in another by means of compressed air directed through suitable nozzles. 

Brush Damping Machine.—A brush damping machine is shown in Fig. 175 and 
consists of a water trough with a driven brush rotating rapidly within it. Fabric 
enters over the right-hand overhead tension rails, passes horizontally over the brush at 
about 18 inches above it and is then batched up on the left-hand side of the machine. A 
board having an opening whose area is adjustable is interposed between the fabric and 
the brush and in this simple manner the amount of moisture imparted to the fabric is 
determined. The roller which serves for batching the damped fabric is geared directly 
with the revolving brush, and since the amount of spray produced is roughly propor- 


Fic. 176.—Spray Dampina MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


tional to the speed of rotation of the brush it is evident that the amount of moisture 
delivered to the fabric is independent of the rate of travel of the latter. 

The brush is usually constructed of triangular-shaped pieces of sheet copper 
projecting from a wooden roller. It is important that means should be provided 
whereby the level of water in the trough may be maintained constant. 

Spray Damping Machine.—Spray damping machines are often similar in construc- 
tion to the brush machine described above, but the brush is replaced by three or more 
jets from which atomised water is ejected as a very fine mist by means of compressed 
air. In aspray damping machine sold by Mather and Platt (the inventors of this type 
of machine) the spray is formed by forcing water under a pressure of 90 lb. per square 
inch through a small orifice on to a small block, whereby a fine mist is produced. 

A spray damping machine of a different type (Swindells Engineering Co.) is shown 
in Fig. 176 and is suitable for damping all kinds of fabrics, particularly silk fabrics. 
The machine is simple in construction, and consists of two upper horizontal and parallel 


FINISHING MACHINERY 173 


rollers over which fabric is drawn. During the passage of the fabric a spray of atomised 
water is blown over it from either side of the machine. The spraying device consists 
of a steam jet in communication with a supply of water. As shown, the rate of travel 
of fabric through the machine is varied by means of the cone pulleys on the right hand 
of the machine. Vertical end plates are provided to prevent disturbance of the spray 
by air currents. 

Whatever type of machine, its construction must be designed so that no large drops 
of water are thrown on the fabric. Such drops would, particularly in the case of 
coloured materials, spoil the appearance of the fabric and might even necessitate re-dye- 
ing. After damping, the fabric is allowed to lie on the batch roller for some hours so 
that the moisture may be evenly absorbed—“ sweating,”’ as it is sometimes called. 


IMPREGNATING (STARCH) MACHINES 


Starch Mangles.—Fillings containing such substances as starch, dextrin, flour, 
gums and soluble oils are applied to fabrics during finishing by means of various types 
of mangles which are commonly known as starch mangles. These machines essentially 
consist of two or more rollers, one or more of which rotate within a filling paste contained 
in a comparatively shallow trough placed underneath the bowls. The pressure of the 
bowls on each other may be varied by means of the compound levers and weights such 
as are usually attached to mangles and machines of this type (see page 34) and all the 
bowls may be geared together or one or more may be driven by frictional contact with 
a driven bowl. All the bowls may be driven at the same speed or at varying speeds 
relatively to each other so that a frictional pressure is exerted between them. Further, 
various other freely rotating rollers and tension rails are usually provided whereby 
the path of the fabric through the machine may be much varied—the fabric may pass 
through the filling paste, being thereby impregnated on both sides, or, without 
entering the paste at all, it may pass over the surface of a bowl which rotates within the 
liquor and thus be impregnated from one side only. 

All these various modifications of starching mangles have arisen from technical . 
experience gained in efforts to produce finished fabrics which have qualities of appear- 
ance and handle acceptable to a fickle public taste. 

All starch mangles are constructed more or less as different combinations of a few 
components, which include a cast iron framework, bowls, rollers, heating devices and 
doctors ; it will therefore be better to describe the essential features of these before 
dealing with the mangles themselves. 

The side frames of mangles should be constructed such that the bowls which they 
carry may be easily removed for purposes of repair or replacement (see page 189). 

The bowls are made of brass, iron covered with indiarubber, compressed cotton 
(see page 201) or sycamore wood, and are usually lapped with fabric so as to give them 
increased elasticity. In friction mangles containing brass and other bowls, the brass 
bowl is almost always driven. Indiarubber covered bowls, being susceptible to heat 
(filling pastes are usually employed at near boiling temperature), are not so serviceable 
as wood and metal. 

The troughs may be constructed of wood with cast iron end-plates or entirely of 
metal such as cast iron or copper. If not steam-jacketed, they should be provided 
with closed steam coils or perforated live steam pipes (dilution of the paste occurs with 
the latter) for the purpose of heating the paste while the fabric is passing through the 
mangle. Sometimes it is found that during impregnation of the fabric frothing of the 


174 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


filling paste becomes a nuisance; it is not always possible to prevent this frothing by 
addition of substances affecting the surface tension of the paste, so that any contrivance 
whereby the depth of the trough can be increased as desired is useful. 

The various fabric-guiding rollers are never driven but should be free to rotate, the 
rollers themselves being made of wood or iron but preferably of drawn copper tube. 
Generally, such parts of the mangle as rollers and rails which are touched by the travel- 
ling fabric should not be made of iron, since this metal is so liable to become rusty and 

produce iron stains. 

ORDINARY STARCHING The size of the various bowls of starch 
mangles varies considerably and is dependent 
on the speed of rotation and the material of 
which they are made. Since the bowls are 

: diameter 
rotated under pressure, the ratio of meee Fan 
must be sufficiently high to ensure that no 
distortion occurs in use. Brass bowls are 
seldom made less than 9 inches in diameter 
and wooden bowls less than 18 inches in 
diameter. 

Two-bowl Starch Mangle—Fig. 95 (see 
page 92) shows a comparatively small starch 
mangle such as would be employed for lightly 
starching cotton fabrics. The bottom bowl 
is of brass and revolves in a trough (not 
Stop StTARCHING shown) underneath it containing the filling 
paste, being driven by a spur wheel shown on 
the far side. The pressure on the bowls is 
obtained through the compound levers and 
weights clearly shown in the side frames. 
The brass bowl being driven, the upper wood 
bowl is driven by friction and at the same 
rate as the brass bowl. In cases when the 
heavy nature of the fabric being treated or the 
high pressure employed renders slippage of the 
upper bowl possible (and also assuming that 

Fic. 177,—THREADING OF FABRIC IN friction starching is not desired), both bowls 

STARCHING MANGLES. 
are geared together by means of spur wheels. 
It will be noticed that in removing the bowls—and as previously indicated the design 
of the machine should allow this to be done as easily as possible and consistent with 
strength and rigidity—the top bowl may be removed without disturbing the lower 
one. 

In a machine of this type, the brass bowl may be uppermost if desired, but however 
the bowls may be arranged, this machine allows fabric to be filled from one or both 
(slop padding) sides, according as the fabric passes directly through the nip or first 
through the filling paste. These operations are better appreciated by reference to 
Fig. 177 (a, and 5b). 

Three-bowl Starch Mangle.—A three-bow] starching mangle is very similar in con- 
struction to a two-bowl machine, the three bowls being arranged vertically as is almost 


1d 


Orvinary STARCHING 


Back StTARCHING 


hg er ae 


Fic. 178.—THREADING OF FABRIC IN STARCHING MANGLES. 


175 


176 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


always the case. The methods of threading it with fabric for ordinary, slop and back 
starching are shown in Fig. 178. 
- Such a machine will usually be provided with one central driven brass bowl and two 
compressed cotton or hard wood bowls. 

Friction Starch Mangles—When it is necessary that the fabric should be very 
thoroughly impregnated with a filling paste, it is advisable to employ a friction mangle ; 


Fic. 179.—FRIcTION STARCHING MANGLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


impregnation is much assisted by the passage of the fabric between two bowls rotating 
at different speeds. 

Fig. 179 shows a typical friction starch mangle provided with two bowls, the upper 
one of brass and the lower one of cotton or wood and rotating in a trough. 

The brass and wood bowls are geared together so that the speed of the brass bowl 
is greater than that of the wood (sycamore) bowl. Friction is thus produced between 
the two bowls and the filling paste is rubbed into the fabric as it passes between the 
bowls, the impregnation thereby obtained being much better than if the two bowls were 


FINISHING MACHINERY 177 


rotating at the same speed. Friction starch mangles are usually provided with a 
number of gear wheels which may be used for replacing those already on the machine 
for the purpose of altering the relative speeds of the bowls and the friction. Generally, 
however, the relative speeds of rotation of the two bowls should not be greater than 
2 to 1, since a greater friction is capable of tearing or “‘ plucking ”’ the fabric. 


jini 


jnissenaie f 
. 


Fic. 179a.—CoMBINED ORDINARY AND Back STARCHING MANGLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Friction mangles can be converted into ordinary mangles suitable for ordinary 
or slop starching by simply disconnecting the gear wheels driving the non-metal bowl. 
Back Filling and Universal Mangles.—Another type of starching mangle, known as 
a Back Filling Mangle, is used for impregnating fabric so that the face is unaffected. 
In this type of machine, a wooden or brass roller rotates within a trough containing 


filling paste and transfers the paste to another bowl which rotates in contact with it. 
12 


178 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The fabric then passes over the surface of the second bowl face uppermost, being thereby 

impregnated from the back. Further accuracy of working is obtained by providing 
the first bowl with a traversing doctor and also 
passing the impregnated fabric over a_ similar 
traversing doctor. 

By suitable arrangements of doctors, rollers and 
bowls Combined Ordinary and Back Starching Mangles, 
Fig. 179a, and Universal Mangles may be built up, 
but their essential points of construction are similar 
to those mangles previously described. The methods 

« by which such mangles are employed for filling 
fabrics are indicated in Fig. 180. 


Back StrarcHine 


Fia. 180.—THREADINGS OF FaBRiIc IN COMBINED ORDINARY AND Back STARCHING MANGLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


DRYING AND STRETCHING MACHINES 


After passage through starch mangles, the filled 
fabric is generally immediately led over a number 
of drying cylinders or is led through a stentering 
range usually provided with a jig motion. If the 
fabric has been filled on one side only, then it is led 
on to the drying cylinders so that the dry side is 
first against the hot cylinders. It is also generally 
advisable to lap the first few cylinders so that the 
drying may be slower and thus prevent streaks due 
to the fabric adhering to the cylinders. Back-filled 
figured fabrics are preferably dried on a large drying 
cylinder similar to that shown in Fig. 181, since it 
prevents markings on the face side of the fabric and 
also avoids the flattening of the figure. Such a 
machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co.) is built up of 
a number of cavity segments bolted together so as 
to form one large drying cylinder capable of being 
steam heated. Steam is supplied to the segments 
through hollow radial arms. It is essential in this 
type of drying cylinder that the segments should fit 
together accurately so that they present a uniform 
polished surface to the fabric being dried. Any 
uneven parts in the surface of the cylinder are likely 
to produce markings on the fabric. Drying cylinders 
of this type are about 10 feet in diameter, the depth 
of cavity being about 6 inches. 

Starching and Drying Range.—The preparing 
range shown in Fig. 182 is suitable for continuously 
filling and drying light-filled cotton fabrics; for 
heavier fabrics more cylinders will be required. 
Sometimes the cylinders of the drying range are 
arranged vertically and sometimes horizontally; in the former case it is a com- 
paratively simple matter to arrange for the delivery of the dried fabric to be on a 
higher floor of the works. 


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FINISHING MACHINERY 181 


Jig Stentering Range.—For the rapid and satisfactory finishing of cotton fabrics, a 
well-designed jig stenter is necessary and such a one (Mather and Platt) is shown in 
Fig. 183. In general principles, the construction of this machine is similar to those 
stenter frames previously described (see pages 120, 168). In passing through the 
apparatus as shown, the fabric is first filled in the two-bowl starch mangle shown on 
the extreme left, and then is partially dried by passage over about six drying cylinders. 
Subsequently it enters the stenter frame via a compensator for correction of slight 
differences in the speed of the stenter and the starch mangle 
(see page 133) and is then dried by hot air (see page 151) oy Rey a 
impinging on the fabric from above and below, the weft ~ 
being simultaneously straightened by running one of the clip 
chains temporarily as desirable at a faster speed than the | | 
other and the fabric brought to the desired width by altering 
the distance between the chain races. On leaving the stenter, 
the fabric is batched on a roller or plaited on the extreme 
right of the machine, it being preferable to provide double tid 
batching arrangements so that stoppage of the machine for 4 1894 —Jrecine Motion. 
attaching the various pieces of fabric to fresh rollers may be 
avoided. Also, when the stenter is run at high speed, there is a possibility that the 
selvedges may not be completely dry on leaving the clips; this may be corrected by 
adding the two drying cylinders shown. 

An essential feature of the machine, however, is its jigging motion; this has been 
unnecessary in those stenters previously described. The jig motion is independent of 
weft straightening and is obtained by moving the rails carrying the clip chains back- 
wards and forwards while maintaining their parallelism to each other. This motion is 


Differen tial 


G 


Sprocket 14 (Operated by 
Whee/ Handwhee! ) 


Sprocket Whee! 
( Driving Clip 
Chains ) 


Main Drive 


Fic. 185.—ConstTRUCTION OF JIG STENTER. 


obtained by means of an eccentric rod connected at one end to the pivoted cross bar 
carrying the clip chain rails and at the other to an eccentric drive from an electric 
motor. The relative movement of the two clip chain races thus produced is shown in 
Fig. 184. By alteration of the leverage of the jig eccentric rod, the limits of the jig 
motion may be controlled and the period of jigging by alteration of the speed of the 
motor. Provision is also made in the end stocks of the stenter to accommodate the 
sliding of the side frames. 

One arrangement for providing a stenter with jig motion and for allowing one clip 


182 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


chain to travel faster than the other is best seen in Fig. 185, which shows some of the 
essential features of the delivery end of the jig stenter described above. 

The sprocket wheels which draw the clip chains along the side rails of the machine 
are driven by the cross shaft, D, which is geared to the main driving shaft, A. The 
shaft D is supported by arms, H, such that the combination can swivel in a horizontal 
plane about the vertical shaft, B, bevel wheels, K and C, being unaffected by this rota- 
tion ; the jig motion of the side rails is thus possible without affecting the travel of the 
clip chains. Further, sprocket wheel E is driven by D through bevel gear wheels, 
O and M, whereas sprocket wheel F is driven by N indirectly through the differential 
gearing above it. This differential gear closely resembles that commonly employed 
for motor cars, so that when G is rotated the rate of rotation of sprocket wheel F is 
made slightly greater or less than the rate of rotation of N. Thus when G is being 
rotated, the rate of travel of the clip chain driven by sprocket F is different from that of 
the clip chain directly driven by M through sprocket wheel E and it becomes possible 
to straighten the weft threads in the travelling fabric. 

DUE TO DESIGN OF SPHERICAL BOSS AND 


HOUSING THE DRIVING BEVELS MA/NTA/N 
A UNIFORM SPEED EVEN WHEN JIGGING. 


MAIN DRIVING SPUR WHEEL RECEIVING 
MOTION FROM CROSS SHAFT AND 
TRANSMITTING SAME THROUGH 
SPHERICAL BOSS TOJIG6ING SHAFT. 


~ NEES 


fe 55 ee 
NEES ats ais 
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Fic. 186.—DrivEe to Hor Arr Strentrer (Sir J. FarmeR, NORTON AND CoO.). 


The whole machine is, of course, housed in a wood and glass structure, so that 
economy of heat may be ensured. 

Such a jig stenter as that described above is usually not less than 90 feet, but is often 
120 feet in length. It is capable of dealing with up to 100 yards of fabric per minute 
(depending, of course, on its quality). 

The hot air supply is maintained by means of a fan and multitubular heater, the 
latter being of the type shown in Fig. 137 (see page 287). The heater is about 15 feet 
long and 5 feet in diameter, is fitted with some 350 tubes each of 2 inches in external 
diameter, thereby having a total heating surface of 2400 square feet and capable of 
supplying 20,000 cubic feet of hot air per minute. The power required to drive the 
fan is about 25 h.p. 

A jig stenter 90 feet in length contains about 1000 stenter clips. The jig motion 
is about 14 feet and requires 5 to 6 h.p. For dealing with very wide fabrics the jig 
motion is proportionally increased. The stenter itself requires 20 h.p. 

Although the machine described above is satisfactory in every respect, it is seen by 
reference to Fig. 185 that the driving motion applied to the clip chains through bevel 
wheels C and K during jigging may not be uniform owing to the fact that K is not in the 
centre of shaft D. This objection is successfully overcome in the Hot Air Stenter made 
by Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co. by the method shown in Fig. 186. The shaft, D, is 


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FINISHING MACHINERY 185 


driven by a central spur wheel, A, and the rate of rotation of D is thus independent of 
the jigging motion; this arrangement, of course, necessitates the provision of the 
spherical housing, C. At the same time, by the arrangement of the spherical boss and 
housing shown at B the rate of rotation of the bevel wheels driving the clip chains is 
maintained uniform and independent of the speed of jigging. 

The method for obtaining a jigging motion in the above-described machine is shown 
in Fig. 187. The jig motion is transmitted through the upright pivoted lever shown in 
connection with a small eccentric drive and its limits may be easily determined by the 
position of the connecting link. 

Blanket Drying and Finishing Machines.—Light qualities of silk fabric are not 
usually finished in stenter machines, since in such treatment they would be liable to 
damage. It is more usual to pad, stretch and dry such fabrics in the Palmer type of 


Fic. 189.—Sizk Fasric FINIsHING (PALMER) MAacHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


machine shown in Figs. 188, 189 and 190. Such a machine consists of an impregnating 
mangle, one or more drying cylinders, an expander or type of belt stretcher and a large 
drying cylinder provided with a woollen blanket. In one type of this machine (Swindells 
Engineering Co.), Figs. 191 and 192, the stretching device consists of a short stenter. 

In machines of this type, which really comprise three separate machines, arrangements 
are necessary so that the rate of travel of the fabric being treated is uniform throughout 
the whole machine; otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric may occasionally 
be subjected to an excessive warp strain. For this reason, the separate machines are 
driven through friction discs as shown in Figs. 189 and 190, or fabric compensating 
devices are employed; in some instances a combination of these arrangements is 
provided. 

Referring to Fig. 190, it is seen that fabric batched on roller D is led through a 
three-bowl padding machine, E (the pressure on the bowls is regulated by the lever 
and weights, C) and is partially dried on cylinder F. Subsequently the fabric passes 


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FINISHING MACHINERY 187 


through a compensator which merely consists of a freely rotating roller, A, free to move 
in a vertical slot and tending to move upwards by reason of the pull exerted by weight B, 
and is then stretched in the Palmer (belt) expander. The fabric then passes around the 
large drying cylinder, H, being pressed to the surface of the cylinder by a thick woollen 


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Fic. 191.—Bianket Dryinc MACHINE WITH SHORT STENTER (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


blanket, J, and the fabric thereby dried is finally batched up on a roller, or if desired 
it may be plaited down as shown in Fig. 191. The large drying cylinder is usually 
constructed of tinned sheet iron and is steam heated and rotates freely; the cylinder 


Fie. 192.—BLanket DryING MACHINE WITH SHORT STENTER (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CoO.). 


is rotated by its contact with the travelling endless blanket. In some instances the 


drying cylinder is positively driven as shown in Fig. 191. 

During its contact with the damp fabric the woollen fabric also becomes damp, 
and in the course of its travel it is therefore led over the steam-heated drying cylinder, 
K. In working this machine, the blanket sometimes becomes askew, and for the 


188 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


correction of this the blanket passes over adjustable rollers somewhat similar to those 
of the weft straightening device described (page 133) in connection with stenters. 

Blanket drying machines are also employed in the finishing of knitted fabric and 
knitted tubular fabric (see page 299). They are particularly suitable for the finishing 
of fragile fabrics or materials not suitable for withstanding tensile strains. 


CALENDERS 


Calenders are employed for the purpose of giving any desired density, compactness, 
handle or lustre to cotton fabrics, and they are similar in several respects to starch 
mangles constructed of metal and non-metallic bowls maintained under pressure and 
which may rotate at the same or different speeds in relation to each other. The metal 
bowls differ from those used in starch mangles in so far as they are made of iron or steel 
and are hollow, so that they can be heated by means of gas or steam or even hot oil. 


Side Frame 


Bearing Block 
Plan 


Bow! Shaft 


Split Bearing 
Block ; 
Frame 
Elevation 
Fic. 193.—ENcLosED SIDE FRAME Fic. 194 —OrEn SripE FRAME 
FOR CALENDERS. FOR CALENDERS. 


The non-metallic bowls are made of compressed paper or cotton (see page 201). 

There are various types of calenders, including swissing, chasing, glazing, embossing 
and schreiner calenders. These types differ particularly in respect of the number and 
character of the bowls employed. Swissing calenders are built up of bowls driven at 
the same speed, and in passing through this type of calender, fabric is compressed so 
that it has a smooth compact appearance but acquires only a moderate lustre. In 
glazing calenders, the bowls rotate at different speeds in respect to each other, and 
the friction thereby produced gives the fabric a high lustre. Embossing and schreiner 
calenders use engraved steel bowls and thus impart special lustre effects to fabrics. 

The pressure on the bowls in calenders is usually obtained by means of compound 
levers and weights or by ‘“‘ dead-set ”’; but in the case of schreiner calenders where the 
pressure is exceptionally high—1 to 2 tons per square inch—and also in the case of 
calenders for jute materials, the pressure is obtained by hydraulic means. Side frames 
and driving wheels must be of robust design and strength to withstand the heavy 
strains imposed on such machines. Moreover, owing to the large wear on the non- 


FINISHING MACHINERY 189 


metallic bowls, it is frequently necessary to remove these for repair or replacement, and 


the design of the calender must allow this to be done easily. 
In general, two types of side frames are used—open and closed frames—and their 


structure can be readily compared by reference to Figs. 193 and 194. 


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Fig. 195.—THREE-BOWL FRICTION AND FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fig. 193 shows a side frame of the enclosed type, the shafts of three bowls being 
included. The lower bowl is carried in a three-piece bearing (or maybe in a V-bearing 
similar to that shown above the top bowl), the intermediate bowls are maintained in 
position by side liners and the upper bowl is pressed downwards by means of the 
inverted V-bearing. The frame A contains a loose cheek extending from B to D and 
secured by bolts. When it is necessary to remove the bowls, the loose cheek is first 


190 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


removed and the bowls can then be removed with the assistance of a chain and pulley 
blocks. This type of side frame is clearly shown in Fig. 195. 

Fig. 194 shows a frame of the open type. The bearings fit into the channel-shaped 
side frame. When it is necessary to remove a bowl the bolts are withdrawn and the 


Low . eal 


y 
! 


y 


Fic. 196.—THREE-BOWL LiGHT FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


split bearing may be pulled apart and the bowl released. This type of side frame is 
clearly shown in Fig. 197. 

The bowls of calenders are made of chilled cast iron (polished), compressed cotton or 
paper. In the case of schreiner and embossing calenders, the metal bowl is engraved 


~~ 


al 


FINISHING MACHINERY 191 


and is therefore made of steel instead of cast iron. Chilled cast iron is suitable for the 
metal bowls of ordinary calenders, since its surface can be well polished. 

Friction Calenders.—A few types of calenders may now be described briefly. Fig. 
195 shows a three-bowl friction and finishing calender, with closed side frames. The 
pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of weights and compound levers or by dead 
set if the dead set pins are inserted. The upper chilled iron bowl is hollow and adapted 
to be heated by means of gas or steam. The centre bowl is of compressed cotton and 
the lower one of polished cast iron. The upper and lower bowls are geared together 
by means of gear wheels shown, the drive being initially transmitted to the upper bowl. 
In the machine shown, the gearing is such that the upper bowl rotates faster than the 
lower one, and the intermediate bowl will therefore rotate at some intermediate speed. 
Fabric passing through the machine will therefore be subjected to friction and will 
receive a high gloss. With such a machine it is customary to provide additional 
gear wheels so that the relative rates of rotation of the bowls can be varied. 
Further, by removing the friction gear wheels, leaving the upper bowl to be driven 
by lower bowls by friction contact, the machine may be used as an ordinary swissing 
calender. 

Three-bowl Swissing Calender.—Fig. 196 shows a calender for swissing, that is, 
subjecting cotton fabrics to pressure and heat but without friction. It consists of a 
central hollow chilled iron bowl, the surface being well polished, positively driven by 
the spur wheel shown. Upper and lower bowls made of compressed paper or cotton 
are driven by frictional contact with the iron bowl, which is heated internally by means 
of gas or steam. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by weights and compound 
levers or by dead set by screwing down the hand screws shown at the top of the machine 
after insertion of the dead set pins. 

The two calenders just described may be considered as containing the essential 
features of a large number of types of calenders which may contain many bowls. The 
object of providing calenders with a number of bowls is that by thus increasing the 
number of nips an increased effect on the fabric may be obtained in one passage 
through the machine; it also allows a greater variety of effects to be obtained. 
Machines containing a larger number of bowls also allow fabric to be finished at an 
increased rate. 

Six-bowl Calender.—The machine shown in Fig. 197 consists of an iron bottom bowl 
and five upper cotton bowls. It is used for swissing and chasing and gives a thready 
and linen-like effect to cotton fabrics, an effect which is similar to that produced by the 
beetling machines described later (see page 203). Efficient operation of this machine is 
obtained by providing the bearings of the top and bottom bowls with forced feed 
lubrication. Open side frames are employed with this machine. 

Seven-bowl Finishing and Chasing Calender.—Fig. 198 shows a seven-bowl finishing 
calender with open side frames. The arrangement of bowls may be varied but it 
comprises a lower hollow cast iron bowl arranged for heating, then two steam heated 
well polished chilled iron bowls, above which are four cotton or paper bowls. The 
arrangement of the bowl bearings with open side frames as described on page 190 is clearly 
shown. These bearings may be of the ring oiling type or supplied with roller bearings. 
The drive is through a disc friction clutch which allows the machine to be run at a slow 
speed for purposes of threading up with the fabric. By means of this machine, ordinary 
finishing and chasing (two thicknesses of the fabric pass through the nips simultaneously) 
may be conveniently carried out. It is also possible to introduce friction gearing into 


SO ateh oS. 


MITATION BEETLE FINisH (Sir J. FAanmER, NoRTON AND Co.). 
192 


Fig. 197.—S1rx-BowL CALENDER FOR I 


SSSESESERE TEST Bo se 


3 


Fic. 198.—SEVEN-BOWL FINISHING AND CHASING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


13 193 


194 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


this machine and thus make it suitable for the production of highly glazed fabrics. 
The power required for this machine is about 50 h.p. without friction. 

Methods for threading a seven-bowl calender such as that described above are 
shown in Fig. 199. In the machine shown in Fig. 198 the arrangement of the bowls 
is in the following order: (bottom) hard cast iron, cotton, chilled cast iron, cotton, 
cotton, chilled cast iron and cotton (top). 

Ten-bowl Calender.—Fig. 200 shows a ten-bowl finishing and chasing calender, and 
this represents about the normal limit in size of these machines. It is of the closed 
frame type and is provided with a lower cast iron bowl, above which are two steam- or 
gas-heated chilled iron bowls and seven cotton bowls, but in no case is it usual for two 
metal bowls to work in contact with each other. Pressure on the bowls is obtained 
as in previous machines except that pressure on the lower five bowls may be separately 
adjusted. These calenders are so high that it becomes necessary to adopt means for 
working the dead set screw handle by a device on floor level, and this is here accomplished 
by means of the handle wheel which operates the top screw through chain wheels 


* SwizzINg” “CHASING” “FRICTIONING, 


Fic. 199.—THREADINGS OF FABRIC IN SEVEN-BOWL CALENDER (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND OO.). 


and worm gearing. Batching and plaiting devices are shown fitted to this machine. 
The bearings may be of the roller type or the usual V-block with side liners; ring oiled 
bearings may also be fitted. It is obvious that the less friction in the bearings the less 
is the power required to drive the calender. About 60 h.p. is required to drive this 
ten-bowl calender and a further 20 to 25 h.p. if friction gearing is added. 

Five-bowl Rack-geared Calender.—For the finishing of jute fabrics it is frequently 
necessary to employ calenders capable of exerting a very heavy pressure, and a calender 
of this type is shown in Fig. 201. Pressure on the bowls is obtained through strong 
forged steel square threaded adjusting screws to the top bowl by means of massive 
wrought iron levers and a steel machine-cut rack and pinion actuated by a pair of 
weight multiplication pulleys. Independent adjustment of pressure may be obtained 
through the top screws shown fitted with hand wheels. 

In the above machine, the arrangement of bowls is as follows: (bottom) close- 
grained cast iron, paper, close-grained cast iron heated by steam, paper and cast iron. 

Siuk-finshing Calender—A calender suitable for finishing silk fabrics without 
friction and with a moderate pressure is shown in Fig. 202. It consists of two com- 
pressed woollen bowls and a middle highly polished steel or chilled iron bowl heated 
by steam or gas. All three bowls are driven positively. The bearings are of the 
ring oiling type and are totally enclosed so that oil stains on the fabric are prevented. 


i alii an 


TEN-BoWL FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Fie. 200. 


195 


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198 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Pressure on the bowls is obtained through compound levers and weights. Silk fabric 
treated in such a machine acquires a highly lustrous appearance. 

Schreiner Calenders.—Cotton fabrics are passed through these calenders for the 
purpose of conferring on them a very high degree of lustre and, as previously described 
(see page 188), this is produced by the impression on the fabric of a number of lines which 
cross the weft thread at a small angle. Usually the lines are so fine as to number 200 
to 400 per linear inch and the metal (steel) bowl of the schreiner calender must be 


Fic. 203.—SINGLE-NIP SCHREINER CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 


engraved accordingly. The effects produced are largely determined by the number 
and nature of the engraved lines and the pressure used, the condition (moistness) of 
the fabric also playing a definite part. The engraved bowl is usually heated by means 
of gas. 

A schreiner calender usually consists of an engraved steel heated bowl and a cotton 
bowl rotating together under very high pressure. The pressure on each bearing may 
exceed 50 tons. In order to obtain this high pressure, the bearings of the lower 
cotton or paper bowl are supported by the rams of two hydraulic cylinders situated 


FINISHING MACHINERY 199 


one in each side frame of the machine and in connection with an accumulator. 
Special attention must be paid to the bearings, since under the heavy pressure these 
tend to become hot. Perhaps, however, the construction and essential points of 
schreiner calender design may be most easily explained by reference to Fig. 203, 
which shows a successful modern type made by Mather and Platt. 

In this machine the upper hollow engraved steel bowl is driven by the large spur 
wheel seen on the extreme right. The lower bowl is driven by frictional contact with 
the metal bowl when fabric is passing through the machine. It will be readily 
understood, however, that owing to the heavy pressure on the cotton bowl it wears 
comparatively rapidly and must be frequently taken out and “ skimmed ”’ in a lathe 
till again true; its diameter is thus continually reduced. When no fabric is present, 
the two bowls must be separated by a short distance and preferably both be rotating, 
since the heat from the metal bowl tends to char and thereby spoil the cotton bowl. 
Under these conditions, it is therefore necessary to drive the cotton bowl from the 
metal bowl through a slipping clutch, and 
the arrangements for this are shown separ- 
ately in Fig. 204. A is a spur wheel keyed 
to the shaft of the steel bowl and engaging 
in wheel B on an independent shaft on 
which is also keyed a chain wheel, K, which 
operates the chain wheel of the slipping 
clutch, C. C also rotates chain wheel D, 
which is keyed to the shaft of the lower 
cotton bowl. The slipping clutch depends 
on the friction between a cast iron disc and 
a surface faced with Ferodo and is always op i¢4 oF Cotton 
maintained in gear by means of a compres- Bow! 
sion spring. Slipping Clutch 

It will therefore be readily understood Fie. 204.—Drivine ARRANGEMENT FOR BowLs 

: : OF SCHREINER CALENDER (MATHER AND PLaTT). 
that when the steel bowl is rotating and not 
in contact with the cotton bowl, the latter must also be rotating at approximately the 
same speed and that when the bowls are brought into contact, the cotton bowl quickly 
takes up the same speed as the steel bowl, being allowed to do so by the slipping clutch. 
This arrangement has the advantage that whenever the two bowls are brought together 
for any purpose, they are rotating at approximately the same speed and there is no 
sudden starting shock as would be the case were the rotating steel bowl to be brought 
in contact with a stationary cotton bowl. 

The raising of the lower cotton bowl to make contact with the steel bowl is effected 
by means of the hydraulic rams shown under the bearings of the cotton bowl. These 
hydraulic cylinders are in connection with a small hydraulic pump and an accumulator 
shown in a similar machine (Fig. 206) made by Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co., and are con- 
trolled by the small lever near the driving wheel. By means of the lever, the pressure 
in the hydraulic cylinders may be immediately reduced or restored, the lower bowl 
being thereby lowered or raised respectively. This control is necessary so that the 
bowls may be separated at the moment when pastings or sewings in the fabric approach 
the bowls. The rams in the machine here described are 6 inches in diameter and are 
pressed upwards by a force of about 2 tons per square inch. A pressure gauge is fitted 
in front of the machine for the convenience of the operative. 


Shatt of 
Metal Bow! 


200 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


When new, the cotton bowl has a very slight camber in respect of the steel bow], 
but as wear occurs this camber is lost. Instead of restoring the camber by skimming, 
the bowl is slightly skewed about the central 

Bow! Shaft point of its horizontal axis and this gives it 
Sliding Block camber relative to the steel bowl. For this 
purpose the bearing blocks of the cotton bowl are 
C eR ae made in two parts as shown in Fig. 205. Upper 
xed part of part A slides over lower part B by an amount 
nie at indicated by the two scales and allowed by the 
screw C. This skewing device also allows special 


Fam 


F we| Hur aulic finishing effects to be obtained. 

As stated previously, the tendency is for 
calender bearings to become very hot. In the 
machine here described, this difficulty is avoided 
by having totally enclosed bearings for the engraved roller which are water-cooled 
and supplied with forced feed oil lubrication. In this manner, a large saving of wear 
and driving power is effected. 


Cylinder 


Fic. 205.—ARRANGEMENT FOR SKEWING 
BowLs ON SCHREINER CALENDER. 


Fic. 206.—SINGLE-NIP SCHREINER CALENDER (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND CO.). 


The machine is fitted with the usual batching rollers and tension rails. Further, 
steel hooked sliding rails as shown are provided for the purpose of assisting the 
removal of the steel bowl for re-engraving, and a jib is also added for assisting the 
removal of the driving wheel of the steel bowl. 


FINISHING MACHINERY 201 


Double Schreiner Calender.—Double schreiner calenders comprise a steel bowl 
between two cotton bowls, their construction being on the same principles as the single 
schreiner calenders. They allow two fabrics to be treated simultaneously, one between 
the upper cotton bowl and the middle steel bowl, and the other between the lower 
cotton bowl and the middle steel bowl. 

There should be no friction between the bowls of a schreiner calender except when 
the engraved lines are impressed on the fabric in a direction parallel to the warp threads. 


Stee/ End 


Cotton or Paper Plate 


Steel Locking 
Pieces 


Section of Pressed Bowl 


Fic. 207.—SEcTION oF Sorr Bown FOR CALENDERS (MATHER AND PLATT), 


In this exceptional case, friction is employed for the purpose of producing the highly 
lustrous so-called spun-glass finish. 

Soft Bowls for Calenders.—Sott bowls such as are employed in swissing, friction 
and schreiner calenders are made from cotton or paper, since these materials give, in 
practice, the best results as regards resistance to heat and friction and they also allow 
suitable degrees of elasticity. 

The manner in which a cotton or paper bowl is built up is shown in Fig. 207, which 


Fic. 208.—Sorr Bown ror CAaALENDERS (MATHER AND PLATT). 


shows the section of a bowl as manufactured by Mather and Platt. A central high 
tension steel centre or shaft forms the basis of the bowl and on this is first placed one 
steel end plate and then layers of circular paper sheets or carefully cleansed Egyptian 
cotton. The other end plate is then added and the bowl subjected to very high pressure 
to consolidate the cotton or paper and more of this material is added if required. The 
steel end plates are then fixed by means of the steel locking pieces and the surface of 
the paper or cotton is made true by skimming in a lathe until it has the appearance of a 
finished bowl as shown in Fig. 208. Frequently a slight camber is given to the finished 
bowl. Accuracy in the diameter of a bowl along its length is ensured by treating the 
bowl in a grinding machine. 


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FINISHING MACHINERY 203 


Embossing Calenders.—These are similar in construction to schreiner calenders, 
the steel bowls being engraved with patterns. An embossing calender is shown in 
Fig. 209. 

Beetling Machines.—In beetling, cotton or linen fabric is wound on rollers to the 
extent of many thicknesses and is then subjected to a succession of blows from falling 
wooden or metal hammers. During the operation, the roller slowly rotates and is also 
subject to a traversing motion so that all parts of the fabric are evenly pounded. The 
effect of the process is to give the fabric a characteristic thready linen-like appearance, 
while the fabric regains width lost in bleaching and dyeing operations. 


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Fic. 210.—LANCASHIRE BEETLING MACHINE (Sir J. Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). 


Two classes of beetling machines may be recognised: those in which the hammers 
are lifted and then allowed to fall by force of gravity and those in which the hammers 
are independent of gravity but deliver their blow by reason of being attached to a cam. 

Fig. 210 shows a Lancashire type of beetling machine. The machine comprises 
two lower cast iron cylinders, side by side, which rotate while subject to a traversing 
motion, and about 40 hardwood fallers which periodically fall by gravity, their return 
upward motion being produced by the wiper cylinder shown in front of them. The 
lower cylinders are about 14 feet long and will hold three or four batches of fabric side 
by side, according to width. While fabric is being beetled on one cylinder, the fabric 
which has already been beetled on the other is unwound and the cylinder re-wound with 


204 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


fresh fabric ready for beetling; economy of time is thus effected. The operation of 
beetling may take anything from 4 to several hours. 

Some beetling machines, also working with gravity fallers, are provided with a 
flat table instead of iron cylinders, and the fabric is beetled while plaited down in laps. 


Fic. 211.—Spring BEETLING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Another machine having spring fallers instead of wooden ones and which are 
worked by cams is shown in Fig. 211. This machine consists of three strong iron 
horizontal cylinders arranged in the form of a triangle and carried on two end plates, 
which may be rotated so that any one cylinder may be brought immediately under 
the beetle hammers and the batch of fabric wound on it subjected to the action of 


FINISHING MACHINERY 205 


the hammers, while fabric may be wound on or unwound from the other cylinders. The 
rotation of the cylinders is effected by mechanical power. Further, during the 
beetling, the cylinder concerned is slowly rotated and subjected to a traverse motion. 
The machine shown contains about 28 hammers. 

The construction of the hammers is shown more clearly in Fig. 212. <A is a rod 
connection to the camshaft terminating in the loosely fitting piston, E, which slides 
within the hollow hammer, D. A large steel spring, B, about 4 inches wide, is securely 
attached to a collar, F,on A. The spring is covered with three or four layers of leather 
and these together pass through the foot of ahammer, D. The action of the hammer is 
therefore as follows : 

The camshaft, A, lowers and this downward motion is transmitted to the hammer, 
D, by means of the leather straps passing through it. On striking the fabric, part of 
the blow is taken by the fabric and part by the spring, the relative movements of the 
spring and the hammer, D, being accommodated by the ability of the piston, E, to freely 


Fic. 212.— HamMMER OF SPRING BEETLE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


slide in and out of D. The blow of the hammer on the fabric is therefore of an elastic 
nature. 

If the hammer, D, is pushed upwards so that hole G in D, and hole H in E, coincide 
and a pin is then inserted in them, the spring C is permanently compressed and the 
stroke of the camshaft is then insufficient to cause the hammer to strike the fabric ; 
this constitutes a simple method by which any hammer can be put out of action as 
desired. 

When working under ordinary conditions, such a machine will deliver about 400 
blows per minute per hammer. Machines containing 21, 24 and 28 hammers have 
batching cylinders 11, 124 and 144 feet long respectively and require from 15 to 20 h.p. 


BREAKING MACHINES 


Breaking machines are employed for producing a soft mellow handle in cotton and 
silk goods which may have become somewhat harsh during previous processes of 
scouring and dyeing. 

Stud Breaking Machine.—This type of machine is shown in Fig. 213. It is 
provided with upper and lower rows of freely rotating wood rollers, each roller being 
studded with a large number of projecting round-headed studs. The lower rollers 
(ten in number) are carried on a frame capable of vertical movement, so that the 
distance between the two rows of rollers may be fixed as desired. No roller in the lower 
row is vertically below a roller in the upper row, since upper and lower rollers are 
arranged stepwise. In operating the machine, the two sets of rollers are separated and 


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207 


208 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


fabric is passed between them and attached to a batching roller at the other end of the 
machine. The lower row of rollers is then allowed to rise, the upward thrust of the 
rollers being determined by suitable levers and weights attached to the frame on which 
they are supported. By adjustment of the weights the binding of the fabric on both 
sets of rollers may be fixed as desired. On driving the batching roller, the fabric is 
drawn through the machine between the studded rollers, being thus subjected to ever 
varying strains by the studs on the rollers and is thus given a soft handle. 

Spiral Roller Breaking Machine.—Another breaking machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton 
& Co.) is shown in Fig. 214. It differs from the machine described above in that the 
breaking action is obtained by passing fabric between a number of pairs of right- and 


; ) . : 
Fabric Maximum Tension. 


| 
Minimum Tension 


Fic. 215.—ConstRUCTION OF SPIRAL BREAKING MACHINE (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND CO.). 


left-hand spirally scrolled rollers driven, as shown, by two end spur wheels. ‘The degree 
of breaking is determined by the positions of each pair of rollers. One series of the 
scroll rollers is adjusted in fixed bearings, whilst the others are in quadrant bearings 
as shown in Fig. 215. The latter series may be adjusted in position by means of a 
hand wheel. Each scroll roller rotates in the direction of travel of the fabric. 

Such a machine may also be provided with return or reversing motion for running 
fabric in both directions. 

Natural Lustre Finishing Machine.—This machine, which is used for imparting a 
mellow handle and lustre to silk, artificial silk and union materials without loss of their 
fabric appearance, is considered to be a fair imitation of “ironing” at home. In 
such operations fabric is damped, then placed face side downwards on a blanket 


and ironed. 


FINISHING MACHINERY 209 


The construction of this machine (see Fig. 216) is such that fabric entering the 
machine is led over an expander (see page 55), is damped by passage over steam issuing 
from a horizontal perforated pipe and then over a steam-heated cylinder covered with 
felt. The fabric then passes over three felt-covered rollers on which rest by their own 
weight two highly-polished steam-heated iron rollers; in this passage the fabric is 
subjected to a light friction effect and is thereby lustred. Subsequently the fabric 
is drawn lightly over a steam-heated polished steel cylinder (back of fabric in contact 


3 


Fic. 216.—NaturaL Lustre FINISHING MACHINE (Sir J. Farmer, Norton anp Co.). 


with the cylinder), whereby moisture in the fabric is driven through the face side and 
pattern effects are thereby lifted or raised. All undesirable flattening of figured effects 
which would occur in ordinary calenders is thus avoided. 


FruisHing MACHINES FOR WOOLLEN FABRIC 


The machinery employed for finishing woollen fabrics differs considerably from 
that employed for cotton piece goods. This arises partly from the different physical 
properties of wool and cotton and partly from the fact that woollen fabrics are 


Fic. 217.—TRIPLE-CRABBING MACHINE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). 


r 


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Fig. 218.—Ratsinc Gig (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). 
210 


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Fig, 220.—Srction or Rotary Pressing MacuinE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). 
211 


212 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


usually required soft and mellow, whereas cotton fabrics are generally desired with 
high lustre and firm handle. A few of the machines employed for finishing woollen 
materials will be described here. 

Crabbing Machines.—Woollen fabrics containing other fibres and even those of 
wool only but containing differently spun yarns easily cockle in processes of scouring 


Fic. 221.—Fiat Pirate Pressinc Macuine (F. HarrersLey PicKARD AND Co.). 


and dyeing, such that their finishing becomes very difficult. It is found, however, that 
woollen fabrics may be freed from the latent strains which are responsible for uneven 
shrinkage or cockling if they are steamed or heated with boiling water while in open 
width and under tension or pressure. This operation of relieving strains is generally 
known as crabbing and is carried out in a machine such as that shown in Fig. 217. The 
machine consists of three separate sets of rollers and liquor troughs. Woollen fabric 
enters the machine over expanding rollers, passes through a trough containing boiling 


FINISHING MACHINERY 213 


water and is then batched on a perforated cylinder. This cylinder is usually lapped 
with a few layers of other fabric for the prevention of stains. Steam is then forced 
through the fabric and most of the strains are thus removed. In order, however, that 
the treatment should be uniform, the fabric is then wound on to another perforated 
roller in the machine, the outer portions of the fabric on the first steaming roller 
being now inside, and the fabric is again steamed. Subsequently the fabric is passed 
through boiling water and batched up at the delivery end of the machine. 

Raising Gig.—This machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 218 and is used for 
raising the nap of all classes of woollen goods and blankets. It consists essentially of 
a number of guiding rollers and a large roller fitted with teazles. Inits passage through 
the machine, the woollen fabric is pressed against the teazles which raise the surface 
of the fabric, thereby giving it a pleasing appearance and handle. 


WATER TANK 


at 
al 


Fis 


| FOUNDATION 
i] 


ELEVATION 


Fic. 222.—CoNsTRUCTION OF FLAT PLATE PRESSING MACHINE (F. HATTERSLEY PICKARD AND CoO.). 


Rotary Pressing Machine.—Woollen fabrics are given a pleasing lustrous appearance 
by subjecting them to the combined influence of moisture, heat and pressure, friction 
being sometimes usefully added. This treatment is largely carried out by packing the 
fabric, suitably folded, between spaced hot plates within an hydraulic press, the fabric 
being then pressed at a moderately high temperature for several hours. On the other 
hand, similar results are obtained by means of continuous rotary presses, one such type 
of machine (Wm. Whiteley) being shown in Figs. 219 and 220. It consists of upper 
and lower steam-heated chambers whose polished curved surfaces are in contact with a 
hollow cast iron driven bowl, steam heated. Woollen fabric is passed between the bowl 
and the heated surfaces and being thereby simultaneously subjected to friction and 
pressure, it obtains lustre. After undergoing this friction treatment the fabric is 
cooled by a current of air blown through the fabric by means of a fan and is then batched 


214 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


on a roller or plaited down. Brushes are provided for removing loose fibres and dust 
from both sides of the fabric before passing through the nip. 

Flat Plate Pressing Machine.—This machine (shown in Fig. 221) is suitable for 
pressing textile and particularly woollen fabric, and its action is not continuous but 
intermittent. Its construction is shown more clearly in Figs. 222 and 223. Essentially 
it consists (Fig. 223) of three steam-heated plates or chambers, EH, D and F (Fig. 222), 
and layers of fabric are pressed between these plates, pressure being obtained by 
hydraulic means. In the machine shown, two fabrics may be pressed simultaneously. 
The fabrics B are drawn between the plates as shown in Fig. 223, the layers being 
separated by floating press papers which remain in the machine ; the hydraulic ram then 
rises, the fabrics are thereby pressed, the ram lowers and the fabrics are withdrawn 


FIXED TOP PLATE 


(STEAM HEATED) 


NOTE: 
PRESS PAPERS (INDICATED BY BROKEN LINES ) 
ARE SUSPENDED IN THE MACHINE AND ARE 
NOT HANDLED. 


BOTTOM RISING PLATE 
(STEAM HEATED) 


\ 
a ae 


ia i 
I} HYDRAULIC OCU: 


Fic. 223.—SEcTION oF Fiat Pirate Pressina Macuine (F, HarterstEy PickaRD AND CO.). 


through rollers, T, and replaced by another quantity of fabric ready for pressing. 
Alternatively, each quantity of fabric entering the press may be pressed any number 
of times before leaving. Such machines are capable of exerting up to 2000 tons pressure 
on each square yard of fabric, and of pressing nearly 500 yards of fabric per hour. All 
the operations are automatic. 


Measurine, Laprrnc, DouBLING AND PLArTING MAcHINES 


After finishing, fabrics of all kinds are usually cut up into suitable lengths, then 
folded and packed, various machines being available for this purpose. In many 
instances, measuring devices are fitted to such machines. 

Measuring and Lapping Machine.—This machine, of comparatively simple construc- 
tion, is employed for lapping or wrapping fabric around small boards or rods which may 


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Fic, 225.—Riacinc MAacHINE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). 
215 


216 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


be of various sizes but usually not exceeding 24 x 7 x } inches. The machine (Fig. 
224) consists of a frame, adjustable to the width of fabric, into which lapping boards or 
rods may be easily placed and withdrawn, the frame being driven through fast and 
loose pulleys whose engagement is controlled by a foot pedal. A measuring device is 
attached to the rotating frame so that the machine may be stopped when the amount 
of fabric lapped on the board reaches a desired length. In operation, fabric is drawn 
over tension rails and wrapped on the lapping board placed within the rotating frame, 
the board and fabric being then withdrawn and suitably packed. 

Rigging Machine.—This machine (Fig. 225) allows fabric to be doubled rapidly. 
It comprises a triangular folding board terminating in an inclined sword edge which 


Fic. 226.—Riccinc MACHINE wITH AUTOMATIC FABRIC GUIDES (D. FOXWELL AND SONS). 


leads the fabric to a horizontal driven roller, and from this the fabric is withdrawn by a 
plaiting arrangement. In operating this machine, fabric in full width is guided up the 
folding board and it is then folded by the sword edge, afterwards being definitely creased 
and set by its passage over the lower roller. Such machines allow the fabric to be 
creased centrally or so that one selvedge overlaps the ober Fig. 226 shows a rigging 
machine fitted with automatic fabric guiders. 

Plaiting Machine.—In some styles of packing the fabric must be folded in laps of 
definite length, which may be from 2 to 4 feet. The machine shown in Fig. 227 allows 
this folding to be carried out rapidly and accurately. Since the fabric supplied to 
plaiting machines is usually on batch rollers and also because of the jerky motion of 
the plaiting machine, the latter is usually worked in conjunction with an auxiliary 


ou &: a 


mai wo we i ll 


Fie. 228.—AvuxXILIaARY TO PLAITING Fig. 229.—SELVEDGE STAMPING MACHINE 
MACHINE (COOPER AND Sons). (D. FoxwELu aNnp Sons). 


218 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


machine shown in Fig. 228. The speed of this machine may be adjusted to that of 
the plaiter by means of the cone pulleys shown and so that a suitable amount of slack 
fabric constantly accumulates before the plaiting machine. 

Selvedge Stamping Machine.—This machine is shown in Fig. 229 and essentially 
consists of a lettered or figured block mounted on a roller such that the block comes into 
contact with an inked pad once per revolution. In operation, fabric passes over the 
lower large roller shown in Fig. 229 and at definite spaced periods is stamped. Suitable 
gearing allows variation in the spaced periods. Usually that portion of the roller under 
the selvedge of the fabric wears unevenly, so that it is preferable to substitute the end 
of the roller by a renewable rubber sleeve. 


PMA TE 
NARS 


CHAPTER V 


MACHINES FOR SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND 
DRYING YARNS 


ALTHOUGH textile materials are most rapidly, uniformly and economically treated 
when in the form of fabric, the necessity of dyeing, bleaching and finishing textile 
yarns definitely exists and numerous types of machinery have been devised for this 
purpose. 

Yarn may be scoured, bleached, dyed and otherwise treated with liquids by various 
methods; it may be treated in full length, or while wound in layers upon perforated 
cylindrical formers such as beams, or as cops and cheeses, or more conveniently when in 
the form of hanks or skeins. Yarn is not largely treated by methods which involve its 
passage through a liquor, since they are slow and costly. On the other hand, treatment 
of yarn in the form of cops and tops is rapid, convenient and economical, but suffers 
from the difficulty experienced in obtaining even treatment. On the whole, yarn is 
most generally treated when in the form of skeins. 

Cotton yarn in the form of skeins is usually boiled out with alkalis and bleached 
in bulk, although it is sometimes bleached immediately before dyeing and is then most 
conveniently treated in the machine employed for dyeing. Woollen yarn is less fre- 
quently bleached; then, like silk yarn, it is bleached immediately before dyeing. 
Artificial silk yarn is never subjected to the same drastic cleansing as is employed for 
cotton yarn (moreover, such treatment is unnecessary, since artificial silk skeins are 
usually sold fully bleached by the manufacturers) and is therefore generally scoured 
or lightly bleached immediately before dyeing and in the dyeing machine. 

Skeins of cotton are thoroughly cleansed by treatment with boiling alkaline liquors, 
and for this, kiers similar to those described for cotton fabrics are used (see page 38). 
Such kiers may be of the low or high pressure type, and though the circulation of 
alkaline liquor may be maintained by means of an injector, it is more economical and 
certainly preferable to employ a multitubular heater and centrifugal pump. Fig. 230 
shows a low pressure kier (Mather and Platt) suitable for cotton yarn; it comprises an 
injector and puffer pipe, a false bottom, safety valves and a hinged cover, and its 
construction and method of working are as previously described (see page 38). The 
Mather kier (see page 39) is also very suitable for dealing with yarn in skein form. 
For this purpose the wagons used are sheet iron containers having latticed tops as in 
Fig. 231. 

Washing Machines.—After kiering, and during the bleaching process, it is necessary 
that the yarn should be washed. This is conveniently carried out in the washing 
machine shown in Fig. 232. Such a machine essentially consists of a wooden vat above 
which are a number of small winches driven in series as shown. Skeins of yarn placed 
on the rotating winches are rapidly washed by their passage through water contained 
in the vat. Since the winches are driven by an endless rope, some simple arrangement 
such as the adjustable pulley wheels shown is necessary to maintain it at a suitable 
tension. Washing machines of this type can be modified considerably in their con- 
struction. Thus double-sided machines are made in which one driving pulley serves 


for each pair of winches. 
219 


Fic. 230.—Low Pressure Krier (MATHER AND PLATT). 


99 
at 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING 221 


A much improved skein-washing machine, provided with twelve pairs of rotating 
fluted porcelain reels carried on ball bearings, each pair being driven by spur wheels, 
is shown in Fig. 233. The skeins of yarn carried on the reels are washed by water 
issuing from the two sets of adjacent spurt pipes shown. Usually, wooden vats are 
placed underneath the reels for the purpose of collecting the washing water. An 
automatic device for periodically reversing the direction of rotation of the reels is 
provided. 

A circular type of washing machine (Haubold) is shown in Fig. 234, the rotation 
of the radial reels being effected by a central spur wheel. 

In other washing machines, stretching and pressing rollers similar to those described 
later (see page 261) in mercerising machines are added. The winches may be made of 
wood, copper, Monel metal or porcelain or of enamelled iron, metal or porcelain being 
preferable since they are more easily washed. 


Fig. 231.—WaGcon FoR MATHER KieR (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Bleaching Machines.—Subsequently, the cotton skeins must be bleached, and this 
is conveniently carried out by means of apparatus (Mather and Platt) such as that shown 
in Fig. 235. This comprises a central container placed above two lower tanks. Skeins 
are packed in the upper container and there successively sprayed with a bleaching 
liquor containing calcium or sodium hypochlorite (for bleaching), water (for washing), 
a weak solution of sulphuric or hydrochloric acid (for souring) and finally much water 
until the white yarn is quite free from acid. The bleaching and acid liquors are con- 
tained in the lower tanks and are raised to the spray pipes by means of centrifugal 
pumps which must be resistant to attack by these liquors. The spray pipes should be 
of lead and the containers of wood or suitable resistant metal. Pumps constructed 
of phosphor-bronze are satisfactory for acid liquors. 

Soaping Stocks.—It frequently happens that it is necessary to improve the whiteness 
and appearance of bleached yarns which are to be sold as such and not subsequently 
dyed, and for this reason the skeins are soaped and “ blued.” ‘These operations are 
usually effected simultaneously in a machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 236, 
which consists of two wooden feet or hammers pivoted above a wooden vat. The 


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223 


224 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


hammers are alternately raised by means of a rotating wheel and fall by gravity upon 
the bundles of yarn contained in the vat. In this manner, the soapy liquor containing 
a suitable amount of a blue pigment is thoroughly beaten into the yarn. Subsequently 
the soap liquor is run off and replaced by soft water and the yarn washed by the same 
process. The machine itself is simple in construction but serves its purpose well (see 
page 289). 

Brattice Scouring Machine.—Yarn in skein form may be continuously washed or 
scoured by means of brattice machines, and for woollen yarns this type of machine is 
very suitable. These machines are generally constructed so that skeins are carried 
between two travelling endless brattices through shallow washing bowls containing a 
scouring liquor suitably heated. In the course of this travel the skeins are thoroughly 
cleansed. Fig. 237 shows a machine (Petrie and McNaught) of this type. It consists 
of three washing bowls each containing travelling brattices, and mangles are provided 
between the succeeding bowls. By this arrangement it is possible to treat skeins with 
any suitable liquor and afterwards wash the treated skeins in a continuous manner. 


Fic. 234.—CiRcULAR YARN WASHING MACHINE (C. G. HauBoxp). 


De-gumming Vat for Silk Skeins—De-gumming is a characteristic process for silk 
goods. When this is carried out with skeins a machine similar to that shown in Fig. 
237a is employed. It consists of a wooden tank containing heating elements (a per- 
forated steam pipe in the bottom of the tank). Skeins of silk are suspended from 
rods over the tank and turned regularly by hand in the soap solution contained in 
the tank. The machine shown is provided with a thermostatic temperature control 
which derives its action from the expansive force of two strips of metal. 

Hydro-extractors—The removal of water or other liquors from textile materials 
in piece form is usually carried out by passing the fabric through a suitable mangle 
(see page 60), but this method is not generally employed (in many cases it is impossible) 
in the treatment of material in skein form. Yarn in skein form is usually freed from 
excess of water by means of a centrifuge such as that shown in Figs. 238 and 240 
A hydro-extractor or centrifuge essentially consists of a perforated cylindrical cage 
capable of rapid rotation such that water contained by the wet textile material placed 
in the cage is flung outwards and thus removed by centrifugal force. The efficiency of 
the machine is obviously dependent on the magnitude of the centrifugal force, and this 
is greater as the diameter and speed of rotation of the cage are increased. 


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Fic. 235.— YARN BLEACHING APPARATUS (MATHER AND PLATT). 
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Fic. 237a.—DE-GUMMING VAT FOR SILK SKEINS (SWINDELLS ENGINERRING Co.). 


227 


228 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The cages of centrifuges are made of any kind of materials suitable for withstanding 
the action of the liquors with which they are likely to come in contact. Galvanised 
mild steel, copper-coated mild steel, vulcanised mild steel, hard rolled copper, tinned 
copper, aluminium, Monel metal (a nickel-copper alloy) and tinned copper wire cages 


Fic. 238.—STEAM-DRIVEN HyDROEXTRACTOR (T. BROADBENT AND SONS). 


are made, but for most textile purposes the cheaper galvanised mild steel cages give 
sufficiently satisfactory service. Since Monel metal can be highly polished, it is suitable 
as a material for the construction of cages used for treating delicate artificial silk yarns 


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Fic. 239.—SECTION OF STEAM-DRIVEN HYDROEXTRACTOR (T. BROADBENT AND Sons). 


and hosiery. Copper cages are very satisfactory and, of course, are not liable to become 
rusty, as is the case with damaged galvanised mild steel cages. 

Most of the centrifuges used for textile purposes are of the suspended type, being 
driven from overhead or underneath by electric or steam power. Fig. 238 shows a 
steam-driven centrifuge suitable for treating textile materials containing acid liquors ; 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING 229 


for example, wool prepared for carbonising. The cage of this machine is constructed 
of hard rolled perforated solid copper plate and the outer casing within which the 
machine revolves (Fig. 239) is lined with lead. The cage itself is attached to an upright 


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Fic. 241.—SEction oF ELECTRICALLY-DRIVEN HyDROEXTRACTOR (T. BROADBENT AND SONS). 


spindel which rotates within alignment ball bearings, the drive from the small left-hand 
steam engine being communicated to the spindle at a point between the alignment 
bearings. 

During the rapid rotation of the cage there is a tendency for vibration and this is 
corrected by supporting the outer casing with three suspension columns. Working 


230 


TEXTILE MACHINERY 


with steam above 25 lb. pressure per square inch, the following performance may be 
obtained with a machine of this type :— 


DIAMETER DEPTH OF DIAMETER DEPTH OF 
OF CAGE. CAGE. SPEED. OF CAGE. CAGE. SPEED. 
In. ae R.P.M. In. In. R.P.M. 
30 12 1150 48 16 900 
36 14 1000 54 18 800 
42 16 950 60 18 750 


Figs. 240 and 241 show a suspended direct electrically-driven centrifuge. 


The 


electric motor is shown under the machine and it drives through a centrifugal clutch, 
which reduces the starting load and so protects the motor from damage, for it must be 
remembered that the force required to maintain the rotation of the machine is much less 
than that necessary for starting the cage from rest. 

The following table contains particulars of the consumption of electric power and 
also a comparison of the starting and running powers required. 


AMPERES AT (DIRECT CURRENT) 

SIzE. R.P.M. Et Bun! 

Ee peas ; 100 Volts. 220 Volts. | 440 Volts. 
36 1000 62 22 24 12 6 

42 950 82 34 28 14 vf 

48 900 10 4 32 16 8 

54 800 124 5 40 20 10 

60 750 15 6 48 24 12 

72 650 20 8 64 32 16 


The Starting Current is about two and a half times the above for a few seconds when first 
switched on, but rapidly falls as the machine accelerates. 


In Fig. 240 a hand brake is shown for bringing the cage to rest after switching off the 


electric current. 


table :-— 


The general performance of this machine is given in the following 


DIAMETER OF DEPTH OF SPEED OF MAcHINE | SprEep or MACHINE 
CAGE. CaGE. For D.C. Suppty. | ror A.C. (50 Cycles). 
iba. In. Teeter ING. Reeavin 
36 14 1000 950 
42 16 950 950 
48 16 900 950 
54 18 800 710 
60 18 750 710 
yf. 20 650 570 to 710 


Overhead-driven machines are of various types and have the advantage that the driv- 
ing machinery is easily accessible. Fig. 242 shows a swan-neck type of centrifuge driven 


overhead by an electric motor. 


With all centrifuges, the drive, whether overhead or 


underneath, may be obtained from any driven shafting near the machine by means of 
belt and pulley. 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING _ 231 


Centrifuges are not only used for yarns; they are sometimes used for fabrics, par- 
ticularly hosiery and knitted fabrics. In all cases, however, it is seen that the centri- 
fuge is less rapid than a water mangle, largely owing to its limited capacity and its 


Fic. 242.—OVERHEAD-DRIVEN HypROEXTRACTOR (T. BROADBENT AND Sons). 


necessarily discontinuous method of working. The following table contains some 
average results obtained in textile practice, showing the outputs of various sizes of 
centrifuges :— 

TABLE OF CAPACITIES. 


(In calculating the output 4 to 6 charges per hour may be assumed.) 


Dry WEIGHT IN POUNDS PER CHARGE. 
MATERIAL. 
Ai itdey || Aidehay || Rte, || Cane | wean, | eer, |) Osi, | Vee Stap 
Blankets . : , : — — = — 100 140 180 250 
Cotton waste . g ; 25 40 60 80 100 130 160 230 
Hosiery . : : 60 80 100 120 150 200 250 300 
Piece goods { ae: 25 to 40 to 70 to | LOOto | 125'to | L70to |} 220 to 
: : : 50 70 120 180 240 300 400 
Rags 3 . ; - 25 40 60 90 120 160 200 270 
Straw plait : : A 12 18 24 30 40 55 70 90 
Wool (botany) . ; : 15 25 40 70 100 140 180 250 
Wool (English cross-bred) . 20 40 65 100 160 210 260 330 
geen (en to 30 to 50 to 65 to 80to | 120to | 160to}] 230to 
: : : | 50 80 120 180 220 300 400 560 


232 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


DryiInc MACHINERY 


A machine (Tomlinsons) suitable for drying yarns in skeins, tops, bobbins or cops 
is shown in Fig. 243, and consists essentially of a sheet iron chamber supported by a 


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Fie. 244.—Arr CURRENTS IN TUNNEL DryInG MacHINE (TOMLINSONS). 


steel framework, the yarns passing through the chamber being subjected to currents 
of hot dry air. In Fig. 244, a sectional plan, the machine is shown divided into three 
longitudinal compartments, the two outer compartments being further subdivided. 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING — 233 


The wet yarn enters the central compartment or tunnel at one end and passes out 
dry at the other end. 

Fig. 245 also shows the arrangement in the side compartment of six heating units, 
each consisting of a number of gilled steam pipes a fan of about 1 h.p., being attached 
to each unit for the purpose of drawing air through the heaters and driving it through 


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Fic. 245.—Air CURRENTS THROUGH TUNNEL DryING MACHINE (TOMLINSONS). 


the machine in the direction shown by the arrows. The average heating surface of each 
unit of gilled pipes is 200 square feet. 

The fans are situated either on a high or a low level, according as an upward or down- 
ward circulation of air through the yarn in the tunnel is desired, and in Fig. 245 the 


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direction of circulation through the heaters is shown when the fans are in the lower 
position. On the whole, therefore, it is evident the progress of air through the tunnel 
is spirally upwards or downwards, counter to the progress of the yarn, being periodically 
heated as it passes through the heating units. The speed of the air through the machine 
is low, owing to its spiral course, but its speed through the heaters and the material is 
relatively high, and such conditions are favourable to efficiency. 


234 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Passage of the yarn through the tunnel may be obtained mechanically or otherwise. 
Thus, tops, cops and the like are placed on trays accommodated on a carriage running 
on guide rails, the carriages being pushed by hand through the tunnel; in this case 
the circulation of air through the material is shown as in Figs. 246 and 247, the 
fans being on the high level. Yarns in skein form are suspended from sticks and 
placed in a similar carriage (each carriage will hold about 320 lb. of yarn) as shown 
in Fig. 243, but it is often preferable to utilise a modified drying machine as shown in 
Fig. 248 which is equipped with endless conveying chains driven by sprocket wheels, 


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Fic. 247.—A1R CURRENTS IN TUNNEL Dryinc MacuINE (ToMLINsoNs), 
the skeins being carried forward by engagement with projections from the links of the 
chains. In the latter case the circulation of air through the skeins is shown in Fig. 249, 
the fans being situate on the low level. Such a machine will hold about 1500 lb. of yarn 
and require 3 to 5 h.p. for driving. 

The speed at which textile yarns pass through the machine varies considerably, 
being dependent on the closeness of the yarns; bobbins require a longer time than 
skeins. Further, it is sometimes necessary to restrict the velocity of the air currents so 
that entangling of the yarn skeins may be avoided. For instance, with fine denier 
artificial silk yarns it is preferable to use a moderate current of air and also circulate 
it downwards through the yarn. 


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Fic. 249.—Arr CuRRENTS IN TUNNEL DryinGc MACHINE FOR YARNS (TOMLINSONS). 


235 


236 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Yarn emerging from the above machine is usually perfectly dry and warm, but in 
many instances it is desired to simultaneously cool and condition it. This may be 
easily accomplished by extending the tunnel by addition of a partially separated chamber 
through which cool air of a controlled moisture content is circulated on the same 
principles as those governing the circulation in the drying tunnel. 


Fic. 250.—YaRrn Dryinc MaAcHInE (TOMLINSONS). 


Another type of machine (Tomlinsons) for drying yarns in various forms is shown in 
Fig. 250, and the convenient working arrangements constitute an important feature of 
this machine. The machine consists of small (a, b, c, d, e) and large (A, B, C, D, E) 
chambers of sheet steel arranged alternately, the yarns to be dried being suspended 
on carriages which are run into the larger chambers. Each of the small chambers con- 


Fia. 251.—SEction or YARN Dryine MACHINE (TOMLINSONS). 


tains a heating unit consisting of a group of gilled steam pipes, and by means of an 
exhaust fan attached to the end of pipe, P (Fig. 251), which connects to all the small 
chambers, a current of warm air is drawn downwards through each heating unit and 
upwards through the drying chamber connected to it on its right-hand side. 

An air outlet valve, O (a, b, c, d, e), is attached to each drying chamber, and valves, R 
(a, b, c, d, e), control the passage of air from one drying chamber to the heating unit 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING) 237 


on its right-hand side. Air from outside the machine may be admitted at will to each 
heating chamber by means of the valves, S (a, b, c, d, e). The last drying chamber, E, 
is connected to the first heating chamber by means of an overhead pipe, also shown 
in Fig. 251. 

Each group of three valves (for example, Oa, Ra and Sd) are automatically con- 
nected and act automatically; for instance, when Sb is opened for the admission of 
outside air, Ob opens automatically for the withdrawal of air and Rb closes the 
connection between B and b, so that the exhaustion of air from B must be through the 
pipe, P. Therefore, under the conditions shown in Fig. 251, in which Sd is open and 
S (c, d, e, a) are closed, the circulation of air is such that outside dry air is drawn into 
the heating chamber, b, where it is at once warmed and is then drawn onwards through 
succeeding heating and drying chambers C, c, D, d, E, and (via upper pipe) e, A, a, B, 
and out of the system through upper pipe, P. On consideration, it will be seen that 
by closing valve Sc, air will be drawn in atc, and after passing through all the heating 
and drying chambers will be exhausted from drying chamber, C,into pipe, P. The 
same reasoning can be applied to the opening of other valves. 


a, eee ae Pen & = 


oc ra, ( 


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= i 


HEATED AIR 


Fy 
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Fic. 252.—YAaRN DryInc MaAcHINE WITH CONDITIONING ARRANGEMENTS (TOMLINSONS). 


Let it be supposed that the filling of the drying chambers, A, B, C, D and E, with 
wet yarn is always carried out successively from left to right, and that at any given time 
B was the last chamber filled with wet yarn and the valve Sd is open so that the con- 
ditions of drying are as shown in Fig. 251. Remembering that from the conditions of 
filling, the yarn in any chamber is wetter than that in the preceding chamber and drier 
than that in the succeeding chamber, it is evident that once-warmed dry air drawn from 
outside is passing through drying chamber C (containing the driest yarn), twice warmed 
slightly moist air is passing through D, and ultimately five times warmed and moder- 
ately moist air is passing out of the machine through the wettest yarn in B. These 

conditions of drying are desirable. Further, suppose that the yarn in C is withdrawn 
and replaced by wet yarn; C thus contains the wettest material. On completion of 
these operations, valve Sb will be closed and Sc opened. Once-warmed dry air drawn 
from outside will now pass through D, which contains the driest yarn, and the five 
times warmed moist air will pass out of the machine through C, which contains the 
wettest yarn. Thus the working of the drying apparatus can be reduced to a simple 
system—filling and emptying the chambers from left to right and simultaneously 
closing the valve on the left and opening that on the right. 


238 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


By a slight modification of the above machine, it can be used so that yarn may be 
conditioned immediately after drying and without removal from the chamber in which 
it has been dried. A machine with conditioning arrangements is shown in Fig. 252, 
and it contains small conditioning chambers additional and adjacent to the heating 
compartments. These extra compartments may be put in communication with outside 
air at any time, and they also each contain a steam jet for saturating the air passing 
through them with moisture. Hence, when the material in a chamber is dry, its 
communication with the adjoining heating unit may be cut off and then put in communi- 
cation with the adjacent conditioning chamber. In this manner the dried material is 
subjected to a current of cold moist air whose moisture content may be regulated by 
control of the steam jet. 

Hanks are sometimes dried over drying cylinders, the hanks being fastened end to 
end. Such a method, however, though possible for cotton skeins, could not be used for 
wool, silk or artificial silk. 


Fic. 253.—YARN DryInc MACHINE (PETRIE AND McNavuGuHt). 


Another type of drying machine (Petrie and McNaught) for yarn in skein form is 
shown in Fig. 253. It consists of a sheet iron enclosure around an iron framework, 
warm air being circulated through it while the yarn, suspended from poles, is carried 
along a course of inverted vees as shown in Fig. 254. 

The machine is built in sections, each section containing one complete inverted vee 
andafan. In Fig. 254, which shows a three-section machine, an exhaust fan connected 
with the top of the feed end of the machine draws a current of air inwards through the _ 
delivery end, through the yarn and outwards at the feed end. The three lower fans, 
one placed below each vee, revolve so that they each create about 1000 small waves, 
gusts or pulsations of air per minute to strike against the yarn, thus causing it to sway 
and vibrate. Provided that this pulsation is not too vigorous to cause entanglement 
of the skeins, the latter are dried so that they have the open, lofty handle which is 
always desirable. A further feature of the passage of the yarn through the machine is 
that at the apex of each vee, each yarn carrying pole makes a complete revolution, 
and this is favourable to the even drying of the yarn. 

The air passing through the apparatus is either pre-heated outside by means of a 
multitubular heater or is heated in its passage over gilled radiator pipes shown in the 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING _ 239 


base of the machine. In either case, the current of air through the machine is 
counter to the direction of travel of the yarn, so that the emerging dried yarn is finally 
subjected to comparatively cool dry air and the incoming wet yarn to hot somewhat 
moist air, 

The following table shows the outputs which can be obtained with this machine, 
and it must be considered together with the fact that with wet woollen and worsted 


POLE TYPE. GILL PIPE HEATERS. 


ELEVATION. 


Fic. 254.—SEcTION oF YARN DRyine MAcHINE (PETRIE AND McNaucGur). 


yarns about 20% of moisture, and with wet cotton, linen and jute yarns about 40% of 
moisture is removed in the drying. 


WooLLEN AND WORSTED Cotton, LINEN, AND JUTE 
YARNS. YARNS, ETC. 
SIZE OF 
MACHINE. ca 
Radiators. Small Heater. Small Heater. Large Heater. 
Output Output Output Output 
Sections. per hour.| Power. | per hour.| Power. | per hour.| Power. | per hour.| Power 
Lb. 
Two: . ; 280 24 560 4} 210 4h 420 5} 
Three . : 480 34 960 6 360 6 720 8 
Four. 700 4 1400 74 525 1 1050 103 
Five. 930 54 1860 94 700 gi 1400 13 
Six 5 . 1200 64 2400 114 900 113 1800 154 
Drying temp. Drying temp. 150—170° Fahr. 


100—120° Fahr. 


In many instances it is desirable to dry hanks of yarn while under tension. For 
example, it is known that artificial silks have an increased lustre when dried under a 
modern degree of stretching, and in the case of mercerised yarns the shrinkage produced 
by mercerisation may be partly regained by tension during drying. A drying machine 
(Textilmaschinen-Fabrick B. Céhnen) in which yarns may be dried under tension is 


240 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


shown in Fig. 255. It consists of two to five reels or swifts attached to a rotating 
spindle enclosed in a wooden chamber provided with radiating gilled steam pipes in the 


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Fic. 256.—SEcTION oF DRYING AND STRETCHING MacHINE (B. COHNEN). 


base and an exhaust fan in the top. The construction and working of the machine 
are better shown in Fig. 256. 


SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING 241 


_ The machine is driven through the three pulleys, 51, 6? and 63, such that the 
direction of rotation of the swifts may be reversed. Gear wheels, C and C?, are keyed 
to the same driving shaft as the pulleys and gear into wheels C! and C3, the latter 
running loose upon a collar, f, and either being capable of rotating h* by the clutch d 
as required. Power may thus be transmitted by wheel h1 (fast on collar, f), and 
carrier wheel, h, to the driving wheel, 7, of the swift, which in turn can be coupled up 
with its screw spindle by means of the hand wheel, /, and a clutch gear, k. 

The screw spindle has two right- and left-hand threads of equal gauge, so that by 
turning it in reverse directions the nuts, wu, are either brought closer together or moved 
further apart, the yarn rollers, g, being connected so that they also move in a similar 
manner and can thus be brought closer together to allow hanks of yarn being drawn 
over, and afterwards extended sufficiently to put the yarn under stretch. The yarn 
rollers, g, are composed of four seamless pipes covered with tinned iron sheeting (Monel 
metal tubes would be better) supported on brackets, p, and held in place by small catches 
or flaps as shown. 

During drying, the yarn becomes somewhat longer, and the swift, because of its 
rapid rotation, automatically adapts itself to this extension, so that the hank is always 
under a slight tension. For this reason it is desirable to run the machine slowly at 
first until the stretching is almost complete, and then the rotation can be increased 
during drying. For slow running, the drive C* and C* is employed and then C and C1 
for the higher speed of rotation. 

By means of the crank handle, z, any swift may be brought opposite the opening 
in the machine for the purpose of removing the dried hanks of yarn. 


16 


CHAPTER VI 
MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 


THE simplest method of dyeing skeins of all materials, and one which is very largely 
used in preference to mechanical methods, consists of suspending the skeins from wooden 
rods (dye sticks) which rest on the sides of a rectangular vat containing dye liquor, 
so that the greater part of the skein is immersed in the liquor; from time to time two 
workmen rotate the skeins, so that by inversion those parts of the yarn out- 
side the liquor become immersed. Usually about 2 lb. of yarn are suspended from 
each dye stick, and some 50—75 lb. on the necessary number of sticks can be 
dyed at the same time from a dye vat of the following approximate dimensions : 
6x 2x 21 feet. 

Dye vats for the above method of dyeing yarn are of various lengths and depths 
but usually of one width, so that dye sticks of a standard length, 3 feet, can be used. 
Dye sticks should be made of material which does not readily absorb dye liquor and 
can be easily cleaned by simple washing with water. For these reasons they should be 
made of Monel metal or of Hardite or vulcanite, although the less satisfactory rice 
cane sticks are frequently used; the latter tend to split when dry. 

Silk and wool yarns in skein form are usually dyed by the method described above, 
but artificial silk and cotton skeins are being dyed to an increasing extent by means of 
machines. 

All machines for dyeing yarns in various forms may be divided into two classes : 
those in which the yarn is immersed more or less stationary in a circulating dye liquor, 
and those in which the yarn is moved in a stationary dye liquor. Both types yield 
good results and are now replacing the old-fashioned hand methods. 

Skein-dyeing Machines.—A modern type of skein-dyeing machine in which the dye 
liquor is circulated is shown in Fig. 257. The machine comprises a number of dyeing 
units which may be of various capacities. Each unit comprises a trough containing 
dye liquor and heating elements and a “ block” of driving mechanism from which 
extend a number of horizontal rotating shafts carrying fluted porcelain rollers, the latter 
being situated immediately above the dye liquor troughs. Each block may be independ- 
ently raised or lowered, and the driving power to each block is provided by two lower 
horizontal shafts driven by the electric motor shown. Rotation of the reels ceases as 
soon as the block is raised such that it loses contact with the main horizontal driving 
shaft, but again commences when the block is lowered. 

The reel shafts, driven by means of spur wheels immersed in oil, are carried in ball 
bearings and may be rotated at speeds of 8 to 16 revolutions per minute for a three- 
speed machine, or 5, 6, 8, 10, 13 and 17 revolutions per minute for a six-speed machine. 
The direction of rotation of the reel shafts is periodically and automatically reversed. 

The automatic reversing mechanism is placed at a point where power from a main 
driving shaft is transmitted to the shaft which operates the spur wheels in the blocks, 
and its construction is better seen in Fig. 258. 

Essentially, the device consists of a vertical pivoted lever, M, whose position deter- 
mines whether the transmission of power from the spur wheel, D, on driving shaft, E, 
to the block shaft, R, is direct or through a lower secondary shaft, K. In the latter 
case, a spur wheel, P, keyed on the block shaft, R, drives a spur wheel, N, keyed on the 
secondary shaft, K, and the rotation of this shaft is transmitted from the driving shaft, E, 
through a chain, G, and spur wheels, H and F. The drive of R from K is through a 


friction clutch. It is thus evident that the direct drive is opposite in direction to that 
242 


f PALL ALLY, 


Zi 
N 


ZZ 


— 
eM MY, 


Z 


PN = 
| Pezaazde AYE. 


SNANAAANANAARRARRARNS, 


lite, 


wai 
LLL 


&s 
Ze 


LU 


titty 


SSSA 
Pa =o 


a 


LLL 
a 


IS 
| 


CE 
Waw 


Fig. 258.—Reversinc GEAR For SKEIN DyEInc MacuINE (MAyovux). 


243 


244, TEXTILE MACHINERY 


produced via the secondary shaft. The position of the pivoted lever, M, is determined 
by a cam driven from the spur wheel keyed on the shaft, K, and the gearing of this cam 
determines the frequency of alteration in the position of the lever and the consequent 
reversal of direction of rotation of the block shaft. 

Since the device for securing reversal of rotation is independent of the change of 
speed, the skeins always make at least one complete rotation in the dye liquor between 
reversals of rotation, whatever the speed of rotation. It will be noticed in Fig. 257 


=P tate 
(0) 


(a) 


Fig. 259.—ARRANGEMENT OF REELS IN SKEIN DYEING MACHINE (MAyYOUX). 


and also in Figs. 259a and 259) that the shafts are arranged in upper and lower rows 
and that their driving ends are mounted eccentrically. The motion of the shafts, 
and therefore of the reels carried by them, is shown by the larger circles in Fig. 259) ; 
this motion considerably assists the penetration of the skeins by the dye liquor. 
Hydraulic pressure obtained by means of a pump and accumulator is employed for 
raising the block containing the reels and driving mechanism, but a crank handle is 


Fic. 260.—SKEIN DyEInG MAcHINE (MAyYoUx). 


fitted so that the reels may be rotated by hand power should the electric power suddenly 
fail. It is, of course, essential that the upward and downward movements of the block 
should be unaccompanied by jolts or jars, and for this reason the water valve controlling 
these movements is automatically shunted immediately before the block reaches the 
extremes of its movements. Further, when the block is in its highest position it is 
held by a grappling device; it is thus prevented from falling should the hydraulic 
pressure be accidentally reduced. When hydraulic pressure is not available, counter- 
weights may be employed. 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 245 


The working of the machine is as follows : By depression of the foot pedal in front 
of the machine, the block is put in connection with the accumulator and is raised to its 
highest point, so that the skeins of cotton or artificial silk may be placed on the reels ; 
each reel will carry 1} to 2 lb. of natural or 2 to 6 lb. of artificial silk. A suitable dye 
liquor is then placed in the trough underneath and heated to the correct temperature 
by means of steam coils contained therein. The block is then lowered by the pedal 
control, whereby the skeins rotating on the reels are uniformly treated with the dye 
liquor. From time to time, the block may be raised for the purpose of adding the 
necessary dyes to the dye liquor for the matching of shade. After dyeing, the dye 
liquor is withdrawn and replaced by water, and the skeins are then washed and after- 
wards removed ready for hydroextraction and drying. 


Fic. 261.—SkEetn DyrInc MAcHINE (8S. SPENCER AND Sons). 


In the machine described above, the blocks may contain any number of reels from 
1to 30. Further, each block may be driven independently as shown in Fig. 260, where 
a small electric motor is placed over each block; this design has the advantage that a 
block of reels may be removed at any time to another machine or liquor vat and the 
treatment of the skeins continued immediately. 

Another type of skein-dyeing machine similar in type to that described on page 242 
is shown in Fig. 261. This machine is suitable for dyeing with vat or sulphur dyestufis, 
since the skeins can be totally immersed in the dye liquor. The construction of the 
machine is readily seen from Figs. 261 and 262. A framework carrying a number of 
vertical pairs of reels is capable of being raised or lowered and carries an electric 
motor which rotates the reels, a device being present whereby the direction of rotation 
is periodically reversed. In operation, the reels are loaded with skeins, and then while 
being rotated are together lowered into the dye liquor contained in the rectangular 
wooden vat beneath such that they are completely or incompletely submerged as 
desired. After dyeing, the reels are raised, the dye liquor is replaced by water or 


246 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


other liquor and the reels are lowered for washing or further treatment. The distance 
between the two rows of reels is capable of adjustment, and the raising and lowering 


Fic. 262.—SKEIN DyEING MACHINE (8S. SPENCER AND SONS). 


of the framework to which they are attached are effected hydraulically. The electric 
motor allows a variable speed to be easily obtained. 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 247 


In Fig. 263 is shown another machine suitable for dyeing skeins and it is particularly 
suitable for dyeing with vat colours. Vat dyestuffs are only soluble in their leuco or 
reduced form and must therefore be applied to textile materials from a reducing 
solution which usually contains a caustic alkali (usually not more than 1°% calculated 
on the weight of liquor). Solutions of vat colours are easily oxidised by exposure 
to air, so that it is important that textile material during dyeing should be completely 
immersed in the dyeing liquor. The machine shown in Fig. 263 comprises two or 
more rectangular wooden vats which may be lined with vulcanite, Hardite or Monel 


Stab 
ae 
bed [1 
bed [1] 
Sint 
@ 
me 
@ 


aaa 


Fic. 264.—*‘ CentTonie’”’ SKEIN DYEING MACHINE (S. SPENCER AND SONS). 


metal, a framework capable of carrying from 50 to 200 Ib. of yarn in skein form and 
an overhead lifting device whereby the frame may be lifted upwards out of one vat 
and lowered into another one as desired. 

Within the frame, the skeins are suspended from an upper row of dye sticks and 
maintained moderately taut by means of other dye sticks, one stick resting within 
the lower end of each skein and being of a suitable weight. 

In the operation of dyeing, the dye liquor is prepared in one of the vats and the 
framework carrying the skeins is lowered into it. The top of the framework engages 
with a rocking device fitted to the top of the dye vat, which is worked by means of 
an eccentric. Consequently, the framework moves upward and downward as it 


248 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


simultaneously receives a forward and backward motion. The completely immersed 
skeins are thus gently but continuously moved within the dye liquor. After dyeing, 
the framework is raised out of the dye vat and lowered into an adjacent vat prepared 
for its reception. The second vat may contain any suitable liquor for treating the 
skeins subsequent to dyeing. For instance, it may contain water for washing, or a 
soap liquor for the purpose of soaping. In certain methods of dyeing, several vats 
may be required and the framework of skeins may be passed from one vat to another, 
thereby receiving its appropriate treatment. 

When several vats are arranged in series it is usual to employ a single drive for 
all. The vigour of the motion of the skeins is controlled by the speed of the drive 
and this must be adjusted to the type of material being dyed. For instance, artificial 
silk of small denier (fine yarns) must receive more gentle treatment than those of 
large denier in order that entanglement of the yarn may be avoided. 


Fic. 265.—CoNSTRUCTION OF “‘ CENTONIP’”’ SKEIN DyEINnG MacuHINE (S. SPENCER AND SONS). 


Centonip Skein-dyeing Machine.—Another skein-dyeing machine, known as the 
Centonip machine, is shown in Fig. 264. 

This machine (S. Spencer and Sons) is symmetrically designed and consists of two 
similar dyeing vats within each of which rotate four radial arms carrying skeins of 
yarn. The construction of either dyeing portion of the machine is better seen in 
Fig. 265, which diagrammatically shows the arrangement of the arms carrying the 
yarn above the dye vat. 

A is a central driven rotating shaft on which is mounted a large roller which presses 
against smaller rollers, B,D, Hand F. These latter rollers are capable of sliding to or 
from A within slots in radial arms which also carry four other rollers such as C in 
fixed bearings. The radial arms rotate together about A, and during their travel the 
inner rollers recede from A when they reach the position No. 4, this motion being 
produced by a suitable guiding plate acting on the bearings of the rollers. When 
an inner roller is in the positions Nos. 1 and 3, its pressure against the central roller, A, 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 249 


is adjusted to be moderate, but when the roller reaches the position No. 2, it is 
subjected to considerable pressure against A as determined by the lever, L, and 
weights. 

During dyeing, the action of a Centonip machine is as follows: The central 
shaft, A, is rotating anti-clockwise. Yarn (about 2 lb.) is placed over the pair of 
rollers at position No. 4, and in advancing to position No. 1 the inner roller approaches 
A, thereby suitably stretching the skein. Arriving at position No. 1, the skein is well 
impregnated during its passage through the liquor in the dye vat. On reaching the 
position No. 2, the inner roller is heavily pressed against A, and thorough impregnation 
of the yarn by the dye liquor is thereby obtained. Dyeing of the yarn continues 
while it advances to the position No. 3, and when it afterwards reaches the position 


restrict mee: 
ta 


fd 


Fic. 266.—SkEIN DyEING MAcHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CO.). 


No. 4, the yarn is dyed ready for removal, while the inner arm has receded from A 
so that the skein hangs loosely. A fresh quantity of skeins is placed on the rollers 
immediately the dyed yarn is removed. The machine thus allows dyeing to be 
carried out in a continuous and rapid manner. Further, owing to the pressure of the 
skeins upon the central roller, A, they only contain about 55% of dye liquor when 
removed, so that hydro-extraction is unnecessary. The machine described above 
requires about 2 h.p. and the rate of rotation of the yarn is adjustable (usually the 
yarn is allowed to be in the dye bath from { to 1 minute). 

A skein-dyeing machine somewhat similar to the Mayoux machine (see page 242), 
but made by the Swindells Engineering Co., is shown in Fig. 266. Its construction 
is better shown in Fig. 267. The machine consists of two wooden dye vats into which 
frames carrying a number of rotating skein carriers, A, may be lowered or removed 
from. In Fig. 266, one frame is shown out of the dye vat and the other immersed 


250 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


in the dye liquor. D is the controlling lever which operates the lifting device, which 
is clearly shown in Fig. 267. When the skein carriers are lowered into the dye vat 


DOGO 


GUARD REMOVED. 
SHEWING GEARING 


+-B 


VN TOUUUMON DOD ROROODOOIUN 


ANSI SNSOaISD 
Pit Hi 
|} Ya: 
| {i (oS) a) 
=_ ! 
fd D 
1 
1 R 
| 
Au} ti 
Gi (rl i aa ed ce ge ns es ies Cae J}, 
EXTERNAL Ts BACK VIEW SHEWING LIFTING 
BARK PLUG AND AUTOMATIC STOP MOTIONS 


DRIVING TO ARMS 


END VIEW SHEWING 
REVERSING MOTION 


_—_—_———eee a 
tt 


END OF BARK IN SECTION SHEWING 
HANKS, ARMS AND LIQUOR 


Fic. 267.—SKEIN DyEING MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CoO.),. 


they immediately commence to rotate through the spur wheel drive shown. Also 
automatically the direction of rotation is reversed, so that thorough and uniform 
penetration of the skeins by dye liquor is 
ensured. The lifting of the skein-carrying 
frame is effected by means of the screwed 
rod, B, shown, the frame being automatically 
gripped when it reaches its highest point of 
travel; automatic stops, M and N, are pro- 
vided so that the frame does not rise too high. 

It will be noticed that no hydraulic pump 
or counterweights are necessary with this 
machine. It is compact, economical and 
satisfactory in every respect. 

“ Coloras ”’ Skein-dyeing Machine.—This 
type of machine, shown in Fig. 268, allows 
skeins to be treated successively with various dye or developing liquors. It consists 
essentially of a series of troughs arranged on a circular platform, above which 
is a turntable carrying rollers from which skeins of yarn are suspended. Different 


Fic. 268.—SxeIn DyEinc Macutne (Sanpoz 
CHEMICAL Co.). 


‘(OD IVOINGHD ZOGNVQ) ANIHOVI DNIGAQ NIGHG—'G9Z ‘NI 


Qa 
NX 


SS 


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STLSTETE MES ss SUSTESUS TESTE 
LLL LANL LLAMA 
8) i 


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= | 1 | 


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a Seay 


251 


252 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


liquors may be placed in the troughs and at definite points the rollers carrying the 
skeins automatically lift or fall as the turntable slowly rotates. The various parts 
of this machine are clearly shown in Fig. 269. T is a trough and Q is the rotating 
turntable driven through the central bevel wheels, C and D, while the skein-carrying 
rollers, R (also having adjacent squeezing rollers), are driven through bevel wheels, 
A and B. 

In operating this machine, skeins of yarn are placed on the rollers at G. The 
skeins are then automatically rotated on the 
rollers and lifted into and out of each trough 
until they reach H, where they are removed and 
replaced by fresh skeins. When desired, the 
skeins may be washed by means of water or 
other liquors issuing from overhead spurt pipes. 
The squeezing rollers which constantly rotate 
with and press against the skeins on the skein- 
carrying rollers ensure the removal of the liquors 
employed. The skein-carrying rollers periodically 
and automatically reverse their direction of 
rotation. Generally, the ratio of dye liquor to 
yarn employed is about 4 to 1, and about 400 lb. 
of yarn may be treated per hour. A machine of 
this capacity requires about 5 h.p. 

Tingor Skein-dyeing Machine.—The Tingor dyeing machine shown in Fig. 270 
is of a somewhat unusual type. The machine consists of a wooden chamber divided 
into three portions by vertical partitions, the whole being mounted on wheels and 


Fic. 270.—SKEIN DyEING MACHINE 
(Sandoz CHEMICAL Co.). 


Fic. 271.—SKEIN DyEING MACHINE Fic. 272.—SkrIn DyEInc MacuInE (SANDOZ CHEMICAL Co.). 
(Sandoz CHEMICAL Co.). 


thereby made portable. The same type of machine is shown in Figs. 271 and 272. 
Skeins of yarn are suspended vertically in the two outer chambers and a small dye 
liquor circulating pump is in connection with the central chamber. When the pump 
is in action, dye liquor is drawn from one outer chamber into the central or mixing 
chamber, and thence into the other outer chamber. Subsequently the dye liquor 
overflows into the first outer chamber and again returns to the central chamber. 
In this manner dye liquor is uniformly circulated through the yarn. During dyeing 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 253 


the direction of circulation of the liquor may be reversed. At any time during dyeing, 
further dyestuffs may be added to the central mixing chamber, and this chamber 
also contains heating elements. A filter may also be provided in the mixing 
chamber. This type of machine is capable of dyeing all kinds of yarn uniformly and 
rapidly. A closed machine is 
shown in Fig. 271, the same i inf 
machine when open _ being 
shown in Fig. 272. 
Skein-dyeing Machine with 
Circulating Dye Liquor.—A 
skein-dyeing machine in which 
the dye liquor is circulated in 
respect of stationary skeins is 
shown in Figs. 273 and 274. 
The machine comprises a rect- 
angular wood vat having 
slightly tapering sides as shown 
in Fig. 274, which is divided 
into two compartments. The 
larger compartment contains 
a removable wooden frame 
supporting a number of dye sticks carrying skeins packed uniformly so as to avoid 
easy channels for the passage of dye liquor, and the smaller compartment contains 
one or more propellers (depending on the width of the dye vat) which rotate at 
about 350 revolutions per minute and maintain a circulation of dye liquor as indicated 
in Fig. 273. The direction of circula- 
tion of dye liquor vertically through 
the skeins is periodically reversed, and 
this motion of liquor gently lifts or 
straightens the skeins according to 
whether the liquor is flowing upwards 
or downwards. 
It is found by experience that when 
a large number of rows of skeins are 
dyed together in the same machine, 
those skeins more remote from the 
propellers are dyed to a paler shade 
than that obtained on the nearer 
skeins. Hence in the machine de- 
= ! scribed, the maximum number of 
Fic. 274.—SKEIN DyEInG MacuiInE (LONGCLOSE rows of skeins extending from the 
ENGINEERING CoO.). 5 ae : ; 
propeller is limited to sixteen; with 
this number, even-dyeing can be obtained. The tapering sides are fitted for 
the purpose of preventing formation of easy channels thereby and securing even- 
dyeing. 
Since the number of rows of skeins extending from the circulating propeller is 
limited to sixteen, larger machines are obtained by increasing the width of the dye 
vat and the number of propellers, but not by increasing the length of the dye vat. 


W) 


SS YG 
OOOO DOOOON0OOOOOO OOO OGe9acoooccouacoco 


NII 


SEES 


BE ee SEL DEE EN ETT OP IT AE 
ae ia. is pea Meh Ry oS er eS | 


Fic. 273.—SKEIN DyEING MACHINE (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CoO.). 


Skiers. Cotesia Rts SME ARE Oe 


254 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


It is generally found that a machine for dyeing about 150 lb. requires 2} h.p., and a 
machine capable of dyeing 500 lb. requires 64 h.p. 

The propellers are attached to a single cast iron base plate and not to the sides 
of the dye vat; warping of the latter has therefore no effect on the true alignment 
of the propeller shafts. The driving gear for the propellers is completely enclosed 
(entry of dye liquor is thus prevented) and is placed above the vat. 

In operating the above machine, the skeins are loaded on or unloaded from the 
wooden supporting frame while this is outside the dye vat. The lifting of the frame 
into and out of the vat is effected by means of a crane or similar device. 

Machines for Dyeing Warps.—Yarns for warps are dyed by drawing the yarn 
through a vat containing a dye liquor, the yarn being then mangled and dried. A 
more economical process, however, consists of dyeing the yarn while wound on beams. 
In this latter method the chief difficulty lies in obtaining even and thorough penetration 
of the yarn. 


Fie. 275.—MaAcHINE FOR DYEING WARPS ON Fic. 276.—MAcHINE FOR DYEING WARPS ON 
Beams (B. COHNEN). Beams (B. COHNEN). 


In all machines for dyeing warps on beams, the dye liquor is either forced outwards 
or sucked through inwardly through the layers of yarn wound on a beam, although 
both of these operations may be carried out alternately. For this purpose the 
yarn is wound on a perforated beam and then placed within a dye vat as shown in 
Fig. 275. In some instances the vat is of such capacity that several beams can be 
immersed at the same time (Fig. 276). The hollow perforated beams make a tight 
joint with plates attached to the ends of the vat, being thereby connected with a dye 
liquor pump. On starting the pump, dye liquor is forced outwards from the centre of 
the beam through the layers of yarn, the liquor then returning to a separate reservoir 
for re-use. Alternatively, the beam is maintained immersed in dye liquor and this is 
then sucked through the yarn and the perforated beam by means of a vacuum pump. - 
The dyed beams may be washed or otherwise treated with liquors in the same 
apparatus. 

After dyeing on the beam, the warp may be dried on the same beam or the yarn 
may be dried while being unrolled on to another beam being drawn simultaneously 
over a hot air or cylinder or cell drying machine. 

Cop-dyeing Machines.—Yarn wound in the form of cops is usually dyed by means 
of a machine which contains a hollow supporting cylinder or frame to which are 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 255 


attached a number of hollow perforated spindles on which the cops are fixed. The 
frame of cops is then placed within a suitable container and a dye liquor forced in 
either direction through the yarn and perforated spindles. 


Fie. 277.—Cop DyEING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Machines of this type differ chiefly as regards the frame to which the spindles are 
attached and the method by which the spindles are fixed to the frame. On the 


Continent, it is more general to provide such machines 
with fixed spindles, that is, spindles which are rigidly 
fixed to the frame, so that the possibility of leakage 
of dye liquor at the joints is definitely avoided. On 
the other hand, in England loose spindles are favoured, 
such spindles being merely “ plugged” into the frame, 
a tight fit being assumed. When the spindles are 
screwed into the frame, leakage of dye liquor at the 
junction of the spindle and frame is definitely pre- 
vented, but the loading of the frame with cops is 
somewhat hindered. When the spindles are plugged 
into position, a tight fit is not always obtained, and 
leakage of dye liquor occurs as the spindles become 
loose. For this reason in machines employing loose 
spindles it is usual to place the frame within the dye 
liquor container, so that the spindles are pressed into 


Fic. 278.—Cor Hoiprer (MATHER 
AND PLATT), 


their sockets by means of plates which press against the points of the spindles. 
A typical cop-dyeing machine (Mather and Platt) is shown in Figs. 277, 278 and 


256 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


279, and consists of a dye liquor storage tank and a container for the cylindrical 
frame carrying a number of fixed perforated spindles. The cops are gently forced 
on the spindles, the frame is then placed in the container and the cover secured. Dye 


Fic. 280.—Corp DyEInc MacuineE (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CO.). 


liquor is then pumped through the perforated spindles and the yarn in either direction. 
After dyeing, the frame of cops is lifted out of the container and the cops are removed. 
Another cop-dyeing machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) is shown in Fig. 280. 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 257 


This machine contains loose spindles, but their method of attachment to the carry- 
ing frame is such that no leakage of dye liquor can occur as described above. A 
cop spindle is shown in Fig. 281, from which it is seen that each hollow spindle 


eee = 


New PATENT SPINDLE OLD STYLE SPINDLE 


Box & MOVEABLE PLATES 


Berore SPRINGS 
ARE TIGHTENED 


AFTER SPRINGS 
ARE TIGHTENED 


Fria. 281.—Cop SpinpLes (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CoO.). 


has a conical end which fits tightly in a corresponding conical socket in the frame 
(Fig. 282). When all the spindles are plugged into the frame, their tight fitting 
is further secured by pressure upon them by means of a slotted plate which may 


Fic. 282.—Cor HonpErs anp Loapinc FRAMES (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). 


be screwed tightly to the frame; a small spring attached to the end of each 
spindle ensures the effectiveness of the pressure. In other respects, the machine is 
constructed on the usual lines, the frame of cops being dyed while secured within a 
container and the circulation of liquor being maintained by means of a small centri- 
fugal pump. 

Li 


258 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Top-dyeing Machines.—Woollen “ tops” may be dyed in loose form (see page 278) 
or in hank form in a machine previously described (see page 247) or preferably in ball 


Fic. 283.—Tor DyEING MacHINE (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co,). 


form. Fig. 283 shows a machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) suitable for dyeing tops 
in ball form. As shown it comprises a wooden rectangular tank within which are a 
number of vertical perforated 
cylindrical containers having 
Rae screw-down covers, and secured 
TANK to the bottom of the tank as 
shown in Fig. 284, the containers 
being built together in two rows. 
The bottoms of the containers 
and the channelled bottom of the 
tank are in communication with 
a dye liquor-circulating pump. 
In the operations of dyeing, the 
tops are placed within the closed 
containers and their covers 
secured. Dye liquor is then forced 


MACHINE DYES ALTERNATIVELY. 


From BoTTOM 1D TOP. 


eH 


|Fia. 284.—Section or Tor DyzeInc MacHInEe (LONGCLOSE : 
ENGINEERING Co.). upward through the containers 


and the material contained 
therein, and outwards into the tank through the perforated covers. From time to 
time, the direction of flow of the dye liquor may be reversed, the liquor being drawn 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 259 


inwards through the perforated covers, through the tops and back to the pump. The 
vertical packing of the tops ensures that no easy channels for the dye liquor are formed. 


After dyeing, the covers of the 
containers are removed and the tops 
forced upwards ready for removal, by 
the upward force of the circulating dye 
liquor. In this machine, as in all others 
described in this chapter, the materials 
of construction should be non-stainable 
and easy cleaning. 

With such a machine as is described 
here all operations connected with 
dyeing, such as washing and chroming, 
may be effected without removing the 
tops from the machine; the pump is 
merely connected to the tank of liquor 
which it is desired to circulate through 
the textile material. Further, by a 


Fig. 285.—CHEESE DYEING MACHINE (LONGCLOSE 
EINGINEERING CoO.). 


device involving the closure of the holes allowing the passage of liquor through the 
containers, any container may be cut out of action, thus allowing a large machine to 


Fic. 286.— TRANSFERENCE OF Fic. 287.—REMOVAL OF CHEESES 
CHEESES TO DyErING TUBES FROM DyEING TuBES (LONG- 
(LonacLosE ENGINEERING Co.). CLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). 


bobbins upon the nickel tubes as shown in Fig. 286. 


be used efficiently for dyeing 
small quantities of tops. 
Cheese-dyeing Machine.— 
Fig. 285 shows the general 
construction of a machine 
(Longclose Engineering Co.) 
for dyeing yarn in the form 
of cheeses. This machine 
consists of a cast iron rect- 
angular tank and a frame- 
work carrying a number of 
upright spaced nickeline per- 
forated tubes, each holding 
six cheeses, one above the 
other. Both the tubes and. 
the tank are in communica- 
tion with a pump for cir- 
culating a dye liquor. 
Before dyeing, the yarn 
is wound on smooth wood 
bobbins whose diameter is 
slightly larger than that of 
the nickel tubes, and the 
cheeses of yarn thus formed 
are pressed from the wood 


The tubes carrying the cheeses 


are then packed in the frame, endplates being provided with each tube for the 
purpose of compressing the cheeses and maintaining the yarn under a general uniform 


260 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


pressure. After lowering the frame into the tank and replacing the cover, dye 
liquor is forced by means of the pump upwards through the perforated nickel tubes 
and outwards through the surrounding cheeses of yarn into the tank, whence it is 
withdrawn by the pump and recirculated through the tubes and yarn. Periodically 
the direction of flow of dye liquor through the yarn may be reversed by sucking 
the liquor through the yarn into the tubes. Also the pump may be used, particularly 
after the completion of dyeing, for the purpose of withdrawing residual dye liquor 
from the cheeses. 

After dyeing, the cover of the tank is lifted and the framework of cheeses 
removed by an overhead hoist, the cheeses being then forced on to slightly smaller 
wooden bobbins as shown in Fig. 287, the bobbins being then dried in a hot air drier 
such as that previously described (see page 232). With a machine of this type from 
20 to 500 lb. of yarn may be dyed in one operation. 


MERCERISING MACHINERY 


The mercerisation of yarn involves the same series of treatments with caustic soda, 
washing water, weak acids and further washing water as are necessary for the 


Fic. 288.—SKEIN MERCERISING MacHINE (C. G. HAUBOLD), 


mercerisation of cotton fabric (see page 101). Owing to the necessity for stretching 
the yarn, the latter is always mercerised in skein form, but however carried out, the 
process of mercerisation is much less rapid as compared with the mercerisation of 
cotton piece goods. 

All yarn mercerising machines must be of robust construction, since the force 


required to stretch skeins during mercerisation is very considerable. Caustic soda — 


attacks brass and copper, so that mercerising machines should be constructed of iron 
or nickel, since these metals are unaffected. 

An automatic skein mercerising machine (C. G. Haubold) is shown in Fig. 288. 
It is symmetrically constructed, being fitted with two pairs of horizontal skein- 
carrying rollers, one pair at each side of the machine. Under each pair of rollers is a 
shallow trough containing mercerising liquor; a shallow tray capable of sliding between 
the rollers and the trough is provided. During the processes of mercerisation 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 261 


and washing the rollers approach and recede from each other, so that the skeins of 
yarn are subjected to a varying tension. An adjustable rubber-covered pressure 


Fic. 289a.—PuTtTinc YARN ON ROLLERS WHILE 


Fic. 289b.—Cavustic TREATMENT OF YARN WHILE 
IN THEIR NEAREST PosITION TO EACH OTHER. 


STRETCHED ; THE SQUEEZING ROLLER PRESSING 
ON THE YARN ENSURES THOROUGH PENETRATION. 


Fic. 289c.—SQUEEZING YARN AFTER TREATMENT Fic. 289d.—WaASHING (FIRST HOT, THEN COLD) 
witH Caustic Sopa; Excess or Liquor Is AND SIMULTANEOUS SQUEEZING OF YARN AFTER 
COLLECTED IN THE TRAY UNDERNEATH. MERCERISATION; THE CAusTIC LYE REMOVED 
WITH THE First WASH IS AUTOMATICALLY 


LED TO A SPECIAL CHANNEL FOR FURTHER 
USE. 


Fic. 289e.—MERCERISED AND WASHED YARNJustT Fic. 289f.—RrEMovinc MERCERISED AND WASHED 
BEFORE REMOVAL; ROLLERS ARE NEAR TO YARN. 
EacuH OTHER. 


roller also extends along the length of one of the skein-carrying rollers, so that the 
skeins are subjected to pressure and their impregnation with liquor is thereby assisted. 

The various movements of the parts of the machine are all automatically controlled 
and the operation of mercerisation (shown in Fig. 289) is as follows :— 


262 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Skeins of yarn are placed over the rollers while in their nearest position to each 
other, Fig. 289a, and during this operation the shallow tray moves forward, allowing 
the trough of caustic soda to rise, so that the skeins are partly submerged in the 
mercerising liquor contained therein. Meanwhile the rollers, rotating in one direction - 
and then in the opposite direction, recede and subject the yarn to tension while being 
impregnated with mercerising liquor; subsequently the rollers slightly approach 
each other, thus relieving the tension, and then again recede and renew the tension 
(operations which increase the resulting lustre of the yarn), the squeezing roller simul- 
taneously pressing on the yarns so as to ensure thorough impregnation. During 
the impregnation of the yarn with mercerising liquor, the yarn is thus rotated, stretched, 
allowed to contract and again stretched. Then the shallow tray returns to its position 
between the trough and the rollers, and the yarn is washed first with hot and then 
cold water, which issues from spurt pipes arranged over the yarn, the washing water 
falling into the sloping shallow tray and being led to a recovery plant. Subsequently, 
the washing being complete, the skeins are withdrawn from the rollers, which have 
now approached each other, and these are again filled with yarn ready for the next 
cycle of operations. 

One pair of rollers will hold about 34 lb. of cotton yarn. 


Fic. 290a.—AUXILIARY CYLINDERS AT THE ROLLER Fic. 290b.—AUXILIARY CYLINDERS AT THE ROLLER 
ENDS WHILE THE ROLLERS ARE IN THEIR NEAREST ENDS WHEN THE ROLLERS ARE IN THEIR WIDEST 
Postt1ion TO EAcH OTHER. PosiTion TO EacH OTHER. 


The force required to separate the rollers and so subject the yarn to tension is 
very considerable and is obtained by hydraulic pressure, automatic controls 
being fitted so that the tension on the skein is limited to any predetermined value. 

Bending or distortion of these rollers is prevented by providing them with auxiliary 
hydraulic pressure cylinders which expand and contract simultaneously with the 
corresponding motion of the rollers. The action of these auxiliary cylinders is shown 
in Figs. 290a and b. 

In machines of this type, the tension rollers must be capable of accommodating 
skeins of varying lengths. Further, although sometimes only one tension roller is 
positively driven, it is better to drive both. In other machines the separation of 
the tension rollers is effected by means of cams (not by hydraulic pressure). 

Two smaller types of non-automatic skein-mercerising machines (Haubold) working 
on similar principles are shown in Figs. 291 and 292. 

Another type of skein-mercerising machine (Mather and Platt) is shown in 
Fig. 293. In this machine, the skeins are stretched between nine pairs of cast iron 
rollers arranged radially, the tension on the skeins being adjusted and fixed throughout 
the mercerising treatment by means of stay-bolts between the upper and lower rollers. 
Shallow trays for collecting liquor are arranged on a horizontal circular platform 
underneath the lower rollers. Above the machine are tanks, one containing merceris- 


DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN 263 


ing liquor and the other washing water for washing. The working of the machine 
is as follows :— 

The framework carrying the rollers rotates, say, clockwise, intermittently, the 
rate being controlled by means of a foot pedal worked by the operative attending 
the machine. A batch of skeins is placed over one pair of rollers, the tension fixed 
by the stay bolt, and the machine then rotated through one period, thus bringing 


Fic. 291.—SKEIN MERCERISING MacuHINE (C. G. HAuBOoLp). 


the skeins under the caustic soda spurt pipes”shown immediately above the upper 
roller, and also bringing forward another pair of rollers ready to be emptied and 
again filled with yarn. The next pair of rollers being filled with yarn, the machine 
is allowed to advance another period and these operations are then continued. As 


Fic. 292.—SkEIN MERCERISING MACHINE (C. G. HAUBOLD). 


the yarn impregnated with caustic liquor and completely mercerised completes its 
circuit of the machine, it comes underneath the spurt pipes from which water issues, 
and is thus thoroughly washed. When it again reaches the front of the machine, 
it is replaced by fresh yarn and is put to one side for souring and washing. 

The caustic liquor collected in the trays is pumped back to the upper storage tank 


264 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


for re-use, while the weak alkaline lyes obtained from the washing are collected for 
re-causticising purposes. The rollers of the machine rotate continuously in one 


direction. 
With such a machine containing nine pairs of rollers, about 800 lb. of yarn can be 


mercerised in one day. 


Fic. 293.—CrrcuLtaR SKEIN MERCERISING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 


Continuous Skein-mercerising Machine.—A continuous skein-mercerising machine 
of a distinctly different character is shown in Fig. 294. It consists of a series of 
horizontal compartments through which extends a trough containing mercerising 
liquor. Two endless plate-link chains carrying horizontal iron rollers move con- 
tinuously through the machine, their distance apart being controlled by means of 
steel inclined planes fixed at spaced distances apart. The rollers rotate continuously, 
their direction of rotation being automatically and periodically reversed. Skeins of 


(LIVIg GNV UTALV]L 


) 


ANIHOV]L ONISTYUHROUATL 


NIGUG 


snoONILNoQ— 


66 


oly 


265 


266 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


yarn are carried between pairs of upper and lower rollers, the yarn being fed at one 
end of the machine and withdrawn at the other. Throughout the passage of the 
yarn through the series of compartments it is subjected to a tension which can be 
varied and controlled by means of the inclined planes mentioned above. On entering 
the first compartment, the skeins are sprayed with mercerising liquor, and after a 
period of travel they are then sprayed with water and finally emerge from the machine 
fully mercerised and ready for souring and washing. 

The tension rollers are driven by spur wheels situate at their ends which engage 
with driving gear wheels in their path of travel. Glass windows are fitted to the sides 
of the mercerising compartments, so that the progress of the skeins may be readily 
followed. 

This type of machine is specially suitable for the economical use of mercerising 
liquor, since by means of small centrifugal pumps the washing water delivered at 


Fig. 295.—Sourina MAcHINE FoR SKEINS .(C. G. HAUBOLD). 


the delivery end may be continuously re-used, each time at a point nearer to the 
feeding end, until its content of alkali is so high that it is useless for washing purposes 
and is suitable for treatment in the causticising and recovery plant. The caustic 
liquor is also collected in troughs under the mercerising spray pipes and returned to 
the tank supplying the spray pipes. 

A machine such as that shown in Fig. 294, and requiring about 25 h.p., is capable 
of mercerising about 4500 lb. of yarn per 10-hour day, the passage of yarn through 
the machine occupying about 7 minutes. 

After mercerisation and washing, skeins of cotton yarn are treated with dilute 
acid (usually hydrochloric or sulphuric acid) for the purpose of completely removing 
small amounts of alkali which the cotton persistently retains. Souring is conveniently 
effected in a machine shown in Fig. 295. Such a machine, which is similar to that 
previously described (page 221), comprises a number of rotating porcelain rollers 
driven by spur wheels and carried in ball bearings to ensure smooth running. The 
skeins are placed over the rollers, and during their rotation are sprayed with dilute 
acid and then with water by means of overhead spurt pipes until free from acid. | 


PART III 
LOOSE FIBRES AND KNITTED MATERIALS 


CHAPTER VII 


MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING 
LOOSE FIBRES 


THE treatment of textile fibres in loose form is of much smaller importance than 
the treatment of yarns and fabrics. Wool more than any other material is scoured 
and dyed in the loose state; loose cotton is dyed to a small extent, but loose silk 
practically not at all. 

Cotton Bleaching Machines.—Loose cotton is cleansed by treatment with boiling 
alkaline liquors in much the same manner as for cotton fabrics and yarn. The 
operation may be effected in almost any vessel in which a liquor and loose cotton 
can be boiled together, but is preferably carried out in a vertical low or high pressure 
kier such as have been previously described (see page 219) or in a Mather kier. The 
latter type of kier has been found particularly suitable for treating loose cotton, the 
special waggons previously described for yarn bleaching (see page 221) being used. 
Further, bleaching of the boiled-out cotton may be effected with solutions of bleaching 
agents by means of the circulating apparatus also used for yarn and previously 
described (see page 221). 

Wool Scouring Machines.—Wool in the loose form is largely scoured by means 
of the well-known continuous wool-washing machines whose operation is designed 
to produce the minimum amount of matting or felting of the wool. Such machines 
usually consist of one or more iron tanks, long and narrow and containing an upper 
smaller and shallow iron tank having a perforated false bottom as shown in the 
sectional views seen in Figs. 297 and 298. A three-bowl wool-washing machine (Petrie 
and McNaught) is shown in Fig. 296 complete with a continuous drying plant. 

Each tank is commonly known as a “bowl,” and a complete washing machine 
generally consists of three or four bowls and sometimes five. The bowls are filled 
with a hot alkaline liquor which may contain soap and sodium carbonate, and the 
loose wool delivered at one end of the bowl is there submerged and pushed or dragged 
through the liquor by means of overhead rakes until it reaches the other end, where 
it passes through a squeezing mangle and is delivered to the next bowl for a similar 
treatment. 

The impurities in the wool, including solid particles and fatty substances, are 
removed by the motion of the wool through the liquor, so that this liquor gradually 
becomes foul or spent. From time to time, this spent liquor is discharged into side 
settling tanks, which are shown in Figs. 296, 297 and 298, and in which various 
impurities separate, some floating to the surface and others settling to the bottom, 
from where they may be recovered and the residual liquor again used for scouring. 
Heavy impurities also settle to the bottom of the main washing tank, and these are 
periodically discharged through a draining valve or are automatically removed by 
means of a screw conveyor in the case of washing machines of the self-cleaning pattern. 
The construction of these self-cleaning washing machines is clearly shown in the 
cross-sectional view in Fig. 297. 

The progress of the wool through the scouring Nigeen is effected by two methods 


which differ chiefly in the vigour with which the wool is treated. In the Harrow 
267 


wee /~ 7 


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kK 


SSS SS SSS SE 
vi 
ea 


Hi 


t= + 


awa ae — 


ANODE 
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Seed be es Hop alias of fans ae ~ 12 ~ aes aces & -saraayy So et ees Sy ato 
a eS 
| ? iY Ye 
ca 
Fs = F807 ARTZ IS 


268 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 269 


type of machine, the forks or rakes are fixed to parallel bars which extend the greater 
part of the length of the bowl, and they are operated by a combined cam and crank 
motion so that at the commencement of a cycle of movements the Harrow falls 
straight down amid the wool in the bowl until the points nearly touch the perforated 
bottom and then travel forward in a horizontal direction, afterwards rising vertically, 
to return ready for another cycle. With this method of progress the wool is quite 
gently drawn through the liquor so that no felting occurs even with the finest 


Fic. 297.—SECTION OF SELF-CLEANING ScouRING Bow. (PETRIE AND McNavuGuHt). 


wools. In the Swing-rake type of machine, a number of rakes,"each attached to a 
separate crank and operating at different periods, draw the wool through the bowl, 
but owing to their irregular motion the wool is agitated more vigorously than in the 
Harrow machine. The Swing-rake machine is therefore more suitable for coarse 
wools than for fine wools, although it has a better scouring action. Frequently, 
therefore, for the scouring of medium wools, a combination of bowls is employed the 
first being of the Swing-rake type and the succeeding bowls of the gentler working 
Harrow type. 


270 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


el 


Harrow and Swing-rake washing machines are shown in Figs. 299 and 300, 
respectively. 

Wool resembles other textile fibres in being difficult to wet-out, so that it is 
necessary to provide wool-washing machines with a submerging apparatus at the 
entrance to the first washing bowl. This usually consists of a rectangular box (see 
Fig. 301) having a perforated bottom and capable of being forced downwards, thereby 


Fig. 298.—SrctTion or Scouring Bown (PETRIE AND McNAvUGHT). 


submerging the wool delivered underneath it. The box thus becomes filled with 
scouring liquor, and when the pressure upon it is removed, it rises, while the liquor 
pours downwards through the perforated bottom, thus completing the wetting out of 
the wood. 

Wool is delivered to each bowl by means of a travelling brattice, which usually 
consists of pine laths mounted on leather belts. Other types of brattice consist of 
wood laths mounted on a brass chain, or perforated or non-perforated strips of steel 
mounted on a malleable iron chain, or of the buckle type as shown in Figs. 302, 303, 


‘(LHNOVNOW ONV aruigg) 


ss 


Tid ONIZHAAOY HLIM TMOG ONTHNOOY MONUVET ‘Lq-TZ— 


FWOHIOG ANaivd 


LHONVN PACA? SLHDAYN oN 


666 ‘OTT 


271 


272 


} 
z 
4 
} 


Fic. 300.—SwiInG-RAKE ScouRING Bowt (PETRIE AND McNaAvuaut). 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 273 


304, 305 and 306; those types which allow the brattice to be positively driven are 
superior for conveying wet wool. 


rr a Sa 


ra 
IT ie | 
I TT nr 


=} AN 


ACW: 


epee 
TT TT | Vy 


LU CA ACAI ey 
¢ = Ni 


ym 
Tig!” 


Fic. 302.—PLain BRatriceE oN MatLeaBie Iron Cuan (PETRIE anpD McNavcut). 


Fic. 303.—PERFORATED BRATTICE ON MaALLEABLE [RON CHAIN (PETRIE AND McNAUGHT). 


i i ig. 307. 
tvpes of prongs employed in rakes are shown in Fig. ae 
ae te of oa reer the scoured wool is delivered to a mangle, where it is 
strongly squeezed and delivered to the next bowl by means of a travelling brattice, 
18 


274 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


the expressed scouring liquor being run into the side settling tanks either by gravity 
or by a small centrifugal pump. From the last bowl of the series the completely 
scoured wool passes through a mangle and then through a continuous drier (see 


Fic. 304.—STEEL BucKLE Brattice (PETRIE AND McNavucurt). 


Fic. 306.—Woop anp LEATHER BRATTICE (PETRIE AND McNauGut). 


Fig. 296) similar to that described later (see page 277). The mangles used in con- 
nection with the scouring bowls generally consist of a cast iron lower roller and an 
upper compressed cloth roller, the pressure between the rollers being obtained by 
means of spring compression. It is desirable that both rollers are driven so that 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 275 


slippage may be avoided. A typical mangle with attached brattice is shown in 


Fig. 308. 


The design of wool-washing machines should allow the wool to pass through the 
bowl in a layer of uniform thickness and under such conditions that, while agitated 


\ 


seen 


3 : ai 


Fic. 307.—Rounp AND DacGGER Prones ror ScouRING MACHINES (PETRIE AND McNavucGuHt). 


sufficiently for the purpose of obtaining a good scour, the wool should not become 
felted or matted. In most machines, the capacity of each bowl is from 1000-2000 
gallons. A washing tank may be 20 to 30 feet long, and about 3 feet broad, having 


a side settling tank 15 to 20 feet 
long and 1} feet broad. The flow 
of scouring liquor through the 
washing system is arranged to be 
counter-current to the passage of 
the wool. 

Wool-carbonising Machines.— 
Impure wool containing such 
foreign bodies as seeds, thistles 
and burrs is purified by a process 
of carbonisation in which these 
foreign bodies are reduced to dust 
and removed. The process de- 
pends on the fact that vegetable 
materials are converted into a 
friable product (hydrocellulose) 
when heated almost dry with 
acidic substances such as alu- 
minium chloride and sulphuric 


Fic. 308.—TEN-TON SQUEEZING PRESS (PETRIE AND 
McNavuGuHt). 


acid, whereas wool is not adversely affected by such treatment. In the process of 
carbonisation, wool in a wooden cage is steeped in an approximately 8 degrees Tw. 
solution of sulphuric acid, then removed and excess of acid removed by means of an 
acid-proof centrifuge (see page 229), passed continuously through a drying or baking 


‘(SNOQ CNV AWTIMLIHAA ‘NAA) SHUATY ASOOT VOL ANTIHOV] ONIAUC, SQOANTENOD—'G0E ‘PIT 


i ounsuscony 
a SNOS 3 


276 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 277 


machine, then through a Burr crushing machine for removal of the vegetable dust, 
and is then washed with slightly alkaline water to neutralise the acid, again hydro- 
extracted and afterwards dried. The processes of impregnation of the wool with 
an acid liquor may, of course, be varied from that described above. For example, 
the excess of acid liquor may be removed from the wool by means of a mangle instead 
of by a centrifuge. 

Continuous Drying Machine.—Fig. 309 shows a continuous drying machine suitable 
for carbonisation. It consists of a chamber constructed from cast iron plates and 
containing within it a number of horizontal travelling brattices (acid proof) and the 


Fic. 310.—BurR CrusHING MacHINE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). 


whole chamber is heated to about 80 degrees C. by means of a fan supplying hot air 
through a multitubular heater. An automatic hopper feed with travelling brattice 
is fitted. As generally arranged, the wet acidified wool is delivered to the top brattice, 
when it is carried along to the opposite end of the chamber, then dropped on a lower 
brattice travelling in the opposite direction, and thus travels to and fro within the 
chamber on the various brattices until it is discharged from the chamber completely 
carbonised and ready for the winnowing away of the vegetable dust thus produced. 

The size of such a drying apparatus may be varied considerably to suit the required 
output, but will usually be 30 to 50 feet long, 8 feet wide and 12 feet high and contain 
three to five brattices. 

Burr Crushing Machine——A Burr crushing machine is shown in Fig. 310. It 


278 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


consists essentially of four or five pairs of heavy cast iron fluted rollers, a beater and 
a winnowing chamber. The wool is fed to the rollers by means of a travelling brattice, 
passes through the fluted rollers, whereby carbonised vegetable matters are reduced 
to dust, and is then exposed to the action of a beater or shaft carrying spiral blades 
and steel pegs rotating at 200 to 400 revolutions per minute, the dust thereby produced 
being simultaneously removed by means of a fan. The pressure on the fluted rollers 
is obtained by spring compression, and each succeeding pair of rollers is driven at a 
higher speed than the preceding pair, so as to better ensure the breaking up of the 
wool and facilitate the removal of dust. 


DyeEina Macuines ror Loose Cotron AND WooL 


The machines employed for dyeing loose cotton and wool are usually of the type 
in which the fibre, packed within a perforated container, is subjected to a circulating 


Fic. 311.—Dvyertne Macuine For Loose Fisres (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). 


dye liquor. One very serviceable machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) is shown in 
Fig. 311. It consists of an outer cast iron cylindrical vessel and an inner tapered 
cylindrical container having a perforated bottom and a hinged removable cover, both 
vessels being in communication with a dye pump as shown in the sectional view in 
Fig. 312. Dye liquor drawn from a reserve tank is pumped upwards through the 
inner container, and the loose fibrous material contained therein and the liquor then 
pours outwards through the cover into the outer vessel, from which it is withdrawn 
by the pump and again circulated through the fibrous material. After dyeing, the 
liquor can be discharged or returned by the pump to any suitable storage vessel. 
The pump can be used at any time during the dyeing process for sucking liquor out 
of the inner container; this assists dyeing and also the subsequent washing if carried 
out at the end of the dyeing operation. 


“% RESERVE 


TANK a 


SSS Nepary Cos 
aN (at, XS LI : 


oe Td 


ce MO, ve 


Fic. 313.—RemovaL oF DyED MaTertat FRoM MACHINE FOR DyveEmnc Loose Fisres (LONGCLOSE 
ENGINEERING Co.). 


279 


280 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


A common fault of dyeing machines in which the material is more or less stationary 
is that the circulating liquor finds easy channels in the material and dyeing is effected 
unevenly. In this machine the container is tapered for the purpose of overcoming 
this defect, and as the dye liquor may be occasionally sucked out of the material 
during dyeing, channelling is entirely prevented. The inner container is about 6 feet 


\ 
IS 
ee Se 


i 
a 


Wane 


mat) 


il! 


id 


i 


—— = = 
Ost aed) Nowe 
SSAANNINS ANNAN <WE ===} —————— 
HH iti y 
xem 


1 
i Y 
| Se see 


Fic. 314.—Dyrtnc MaAcHINE FoR LOOSE FIBRES (MATHER AND PLATT). 


in diameter and the material is packed loosely to a depth of 20 to 22 inches, thereby 
holding some 500 to 700 lb. The ratio of dye liquor to material dyed may be 
maintained as low as 8 to l. 

After dyeing the material may be washed in the same machine if desired and the 
inner container then removed by means of a hoist, placed on a suitable support such 
as that shown in Fig. 313, and the contents emptied. 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 281 


Another type of loose material dyeing machine (Mather and Platt) is indicated 
in Fig. 314. It consists essentially of an outer cylindrical tank having a perforated 
bottom in connection with a cistern underneath, and an inner cylindrical container 


eth AAA 6 RE 


Fig. 315.—MacuineE ror DyrIne Loose Fisres (PETRIE AND McNavucat). 


having perforated sides and a central perforated tube in communication with a 
centrifugal pump and a storage tank for dye liquor. The fibrous material to be dyed 
is loosely packed between the central tube and the perforated sides of the inner 
container, and dye liquor is then circulated by means of the pump. The liquor passes 
outwards from the central tube through the material and the perforated sides of the 


282 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


container, into the outer vessel, whence it drains into the lower cistern and is with- 
drawn by the pump and re-circulated through the apparatus. Suitable heating and 
washing arrangements are provided. After dyeing, the inner container may be removed 
by means of an overhead hoist and the contents emptied. 

Fig. 315 shows another type of machine (Petrie and McNaught) for dyeing loose: 
wool and cotton. This machine consists of a wooden cylindrical vessel having two 
horizontal perforated partitions which thereby form an inner chamber for containing 
the material to be dyed. A central tube containing a propeller establishes connection 
between the upper and lower compartments. Loose wool is packed in the central 
compartment and dye liquor added to the upper compartment. Under the influence 
of the propeller, the dye liquor percolates through the top perforated partition, through 


SECTIONAL ELEVATION 


Fic. 316.—Woot Orrentinc MACHINE (PETRIE AND McNAvGut). 


the wool and the lower perforated partition, thereby filling the lower compartment 
and rising up the central tube. At this point the propeller lifts the dye liquor into 
the first compartment and thus the circulation is maintained. The direction of 
circulation of dye liquor can be periodically reversed by reversing the rotation of the 
propeller. 

The machine is provided with the usual heating elements, and by means of an 
overhead hoist the perforated cover plate may be removed, thus allowing the removal 
of the dyed material. Easy running of the propeller is obtained by providing it with 
ball bearings and ball thrust washers. 

Opening Machines—After such operations of washing, dyeing and drying, loose 
wool and cotton frequently become slightly felted and require “‘ opening-out.” A 
typical machine for this purpose is shown in Fig. 316, and consists of two toothed 
cylinders rotating in opposite directions within a hooded chamber. The material is. 
delivered to the machine by means of a small travelling brattice, is opened by the 


BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 283 


combing action of the teeth and is delivered in a full lofty condition. Such a machine 
may also be used for wet, loose, fibrous material. 


Dryina MACHINERY 


Loose textile materials are always dried by means of hot air, since it is almost 
impossible to use drying cylinders for this purpose. 

Loose textile material may be dried in the Tomlinson machine (see page 232) or 
the brattice machine (see page 286), or in another type of machine (Benno Schilde) 


Fic. 317.—ScuitpE Dryine MacuHINE For LOosE Fisres (J. ROLLAND). 


shown in Figs. 317 and 318. In this machine the textile material is placed on trays 
having a brattice bottom through which air can pass. The machine, Fig. 318, essen- 
tially consists of a drying chamber, a, constructed of sheet iron and heat lagged, an 
exit door, b, for the trays, a lift platform, c, an entrance door, d, for the trays, a heating 
unit, e, and a blower fan in the top of the chamber. 

The working of the machine is largely automatic and simple. A tray of material 
is placed on platform, c, raised to the level of d and the bottom tray of dried material 
withdrawn at b. The tray of wet material then slides into the top of the machine 
and the operations are repeated, the bottom tray always containing the dry material. 
In the machine, the motion of the trays is always downwards, while the hot air is 
upwards through the trays and the material they contain. 


284 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Another machine of the same type is shown in Fig. 319, and high pressure steam 
may be used in the air heater without the possibility of the textile material being 
injured. 

As shown in Fig. 320, trays containing the textile material to be dried travel through 
the two drying shafts a and b (indicated by the bold arrow line). Emerging through 
the door, g, from the shaft, a, the trays are emptied and refilled whilst resting on the 
lift platform, h, and then travel through the drier thus :— 

As each freshly filled tray enters shaft a the stack of trays in this shaft rises 


rceceddeersh 
ee Gea 
cari | 


Nl eee erro 
Ti fesssbhcess 


Fic. 318.—SEcTIoN or ScHinpE Drying MacHINE FoR Loose Fisres (J. ROLLAND). 


automatically by the height of one tray and the top tray slides over through a self- 
closing door, 7, into shaft b. Simultaneously, in shaft 6 the stack of trays has descended 
by the depth of one tray, the lowermost tray having passed through the self-acting 
doors, k and J, back into shaft a into a position ready for the final drying, and is now 
ready to emerge through the door, g, on to the lift, h, where it is emptied by hand or 
by self-acting tilting apparatus. The tray is then refilled and again passes along 
the path described above. 

When ascending or descending within the two drying shafts the trays are stacked 
and move in unison, whilst when passing from shaft to shaft they move singly. The 


pomcdains 


Lufteintritt 


Fic. 320.—SrcTIon oF ScHILDE Dryina MAcHINE (J. ROLLAND). 
285 


286 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


lift also raises the trays singly. All these movements, as also the opening and closing 
of the doors, g, 7, k and J, are entirely automatic. 

The suction side of the fan is attached to a socket provided in the ceiling of shaft 5, 
and draws the drying air through the two shafts and the material in the trays as 
indicated by the faint arrow line. As the air enters the machine through an opening 
underneath shaft a, it is moderately heated by the small radiator, d, and then passes 
through the material of the tray immediately above and which is just about to emerge 
from the drier. Subsequently the air is further heated by the large radiator, e, then 
passes through the material in a number of trays in shaft a and is further heated by 
the radiator, c, interposed between the two drying shafts, after which it passes through 
all the trays in shaft 6 and out of the machine through the exhaust fan. 


Fig. 321.—Brattice Drying MACHINE (PETRIE AND McNAvGuHt). 


The temperature of the air is highest in the middle of shaft a immediately behind 
door f, and this is the position of the wettest material. On the other hand, air passing 
through the almost dried material at g is moderately warm and quite dry. These 
conditions are desirable. 

Brattice Drying Machine.—A machine (Petrie and McNaught) suitable for drying 
loose wool and cotton and small hosiery piece goods is shown in Fig. 321. It is very 
similar in construction to the pole drying machine previously described (see page 238), 
except that two endless brattices 4 to 6 feet wide travel through the machine, the 
textile material being held between the brattices one above the other in the centre 
of the machine. The heating units are placed in the base of the machine, and one 
fan draws a current of air through the textile material contained between the brattices 
and outwards at the feed end, while three smaller fans produce pulsations of the air 
within the machine. The average outputs which can be obtained with this machine 
(brattice 4 feet wide) are indicated in the table below :— 


BLEACHING, 


DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES 


LENGTH OF 


MACHINE. 
Ig,  Jltat. 
33 0 
25 0 
17 0 


YARN OvuTPUT 


SLUBBING OUTPUT 


Hostery Oureut 


PER Hour. PER Hour. PER Hour. 
Dry WEIGHT. Dry WEIGHT. Dry WEIGHT. 
ib. Lb. Lb. 
1000 1350 1700 
750 1000 1250 
500 675 850 


Fic. 323.—INDENTED STEAM Pires (Row’s PaTENT) (ROYLES). 


287 


Fig. 324.—SEcTION oF INDENTED 
STEAM PrpE (ROYLEs). 


In many instances the brattice is arranged to travel through a conditioning 
chamber after passage through the drying machine, so that the textile material is 
thus finally exposed to moist cool air. 

Drying textile materials by means of hot air involves the heating of large volumes of 
air, and this is usually accomplished by passing air over a number of gilled steam pipes 


in a suitable chamber. 


when the ration 


Area of heated surface 


Volume of air enclosed between heating surfaces 


is greatest. 


It is obvious that the greatest efficiency of heating is obtained 
The 


heating of air by passage over ordinary steam pipes is moderately efficient, but when 


288 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


hol 


the heater is of multitubular construction its efficiency is considerably increased. A 
better system of heating (Royle’s) is shown in Fig. 322, in which air is drawn by means 
of the fan through a number of indented steam pipes. The shape of the steam pipes 
(Row’s patent) is better shown in Figs. 323 and 324 and their large heating surface 
is apparent. Such pipes are not only useful for heating air but may be used for 
heating water, and may be employed for this purpose in kiers, jigs and dyeing 
machines. Another device for increasing the heating surface of steam pipes consists 
of providing the pipes with gills or lamina. 


CHAPTER VIII 


MACHINERY FOR SCOURING, DYEING, DRYING AND 
FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 


THE methods employed for dyeing and otherwise treating fabrics as described in 
earlier chapters are usually quite unsuitable for dealing with hosiery and knitted 
materials. In the first place, knitted materials are more fragile than woven fabrics, 
so that they cannot be subjected to more than a moderate amount of strain, and 
secondly, knitted goods are frequently dealt with as garments and in short pieces, 


Fig. 325.—Scourineg MacHINE For Hosiery (S. PEGG anp Soy). 


whereas woven fabrics are seldom less than 50 to 100 yards in length. Machinery for 
treating knitted goods is therefore quite distinct from that used in dyeing and finishing 
woven fabrics. 

Scouring Machine.—Knitted goods are most satisfactorily washed or scoured by 
a process of squeezing within a soapy or other scouring liquor, and this may be 
mechanically effected by means of the machine shown in Fig. 325. This machine 
essentially consists of two rectangular tubs mounted on wheels. Within each tub 
are three or more wooden fallers which, by means of rotating arms projecting from 
a rotating shaft, are lifted and allowed to fall several times per minute. Simul- 
taneously with the rising and falling of the fallers the tubs travel backwards and 

19 289 


290 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


forwards on the runway shown. In operation, knitted goods are placed with a scouring 
liquor in the tubs and are there rapidly squeezed or pounded by the fallers, the 
motion of the tubs ensuring uniform treatment. 

Hosiery may also be scoured in the machines shown in Figs. 327, 328, 331 and 
333 (pages 291-294). 

Fulling Mill.—Just as woollen fabrics are milled or fulled for the purpose of 
increasing their density, so it is usual to mill woollen hosiery. A machine for this 


Baie so4' 
™ D0ae 


nos 


aN 
(4 
2 


Fic. 326.—Fuiiine Mint (8. Peace anp Son). 


purpose is shown in Fig. 326, and is somewhat similar in construction to the stocks 
described on page 221, except that the motion of the hammers is obtained positively 
by means of a crank motion. In this machine, hosiery is continuously subjected 
to the blows of the hammers while immersed in a soapy liquor. The construction of 
such a machine is simple and evident from Fig. 326. 

Scouring and Shrinking Machine-—Another useful machine for treating knitted 
goods is shown in Fig. 327; it is simple in construction but efficient in operation. 
The machine consists of a circular tub mounted on a spur wheel driven as shown. 
The axis of the tub is inclined and the tub contains a central circular partition. 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 291 


Knitted goods and a suitable liquor are placed in the tub, and the latter and its 
contents then rotated. This machine is suitable for treating woollen knitted materials 
with chlorine liquors so that they become unshrinkable. 


DyEING MACHINERY 


Numerous types of machines are employed for dyeing knitted materials, their 
construction being dependent on the form of knitted material being dealt with. 
Knitted goods in small pieces are usually dyed while being continuously moved about 
within a dye liquor, but knitted tubular fabric in lengths of 50 to 100 yards is generally 
dyed in winch machines, the fabric being continuously drawn through a dye liquor. 


Fic. 327.—HosimpRy ScourRING AND SHRINKING MACHINE (HILL AND HERBERT). 


Paddle Dyeing Machines.—One of the simplest machines for dyeing small pieces 
of knitted goods is the paddle machine shown in Fig. 328. It consists of an elliptical 
wooden vat and a vertically mounted paddle wheel. The knitted goods, placed in 
the dye liquor within the vat, are constantly agitated and circulated around the vat 
and through the dye liquor by rotation of the paddle. The agitation produced by 
the paddle is supplemented by the action of steam jets immersed in the dye liquor. 
In such machines it is important that the sides of the vat be perfectly smooth and 
that the agitation of the fabric is as light as possible, since too violent agitation tends 
to felt woollen materials and to damage artificial silk goods, which always have a low 
wet strength. 

Similar paddle machines are shown in Figs. 329 and 330. In these the paddle 
extends horizontally across the length of the dyeing trough, and during rotation 
it gently agitates the loose-knitted materials and dye liquor contained in the trough. 
The usual steam heating elements are provided with such machines. 

Hosiery Dyeing Machine Utilising Compressed Air.—Another machine (Longclose 
Engineering Co.) specially suitable for dyeing small knitted cotton and artificial goods 


292 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


is shown sectionally in Fig. 331. The dyeing machine consists of a cylindrical trough. 
Within this are placed a dye liquor and the goods to be dyed, and these are maintained 
in constant agitation by means of upward jets of compressed air and steam. The 


— 


t\ 
juny 


QQ 


i 


‘ 


INNDATINATET 


\\ 


AI 


iN 


SH 


Fic. 329.—Hosimry Dyrine Macuine (Hitt anpD HERBERT). COPYRIGHT. 


supplies of steam and air are independent, so that at the commencement of dyeing 
a larger proportion of steam may be used for the purpose of increasing the temperature 
of the dye liquor, while towards the end of dyeing the circulation of the knitted goods 
and liquor may be continued mainly by means of the compressed air. A machine 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 2938 


of this type constructed from stainless Hardite is usually capable of dyeing 15 to 
75 lb. of artificial silk hose at once. 

Different in construction from, but similar in type to those machines described 
above is the machine shown in Fig. 332. It comprises a wooden dye vat to which 
is hinged a perforated Monel metal semicylindrical container provided with a paddle. 


Fic. 330.—Hostery Dyrtnc MAcHInE (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). 


Dyeing is carried out in much the same manner as in the paddle machines previously 
described, but after dyeing the dye liquor may be drained from the knitted materials, 
and these then easily removed from the machine by tipping the hinged inner container 
as shown in Fig. 332. 


NS See “Le ntl gl ee Oe = 
et 


Fic. 331.—Hostery DyEtna Macuine (LonGcLosE ENGINEERING CoO.). 


Rotary Dyeing Machine—A very successful rotary dyeing machine for hosiery 
goods is shown in Fig. 333, and consists of an inner perforated cylinder (Fig. 334) 
containing the goods to be dyed, rotating within an outer cylindrical container for 
dye liquor. The inner cylinder is driven from loose pulleys through bevel wheels, 
the construction being clearly shown in Fig. 333. In operation, knitted goods and 


294 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


dye liquor are placed in the machine through large openings in front of the machine, 
the hinged covers are closed down, and the inner cylinder is rotated. The goods are 


Fic. 333.—Rotary Hosiery Dyeinc Macuine (Hitn Fic. 334.—ConstRucTION OF HosImRY DYEING 
AND HERBERT). COPYRIGHT. MaAcHINE (HILL AND HERBERT). COPYRIGHT. 


thus evenly exposed to the action of the dyeing liquor, and by means of suitably 
placed steam heating elements the dye liquor is heated during the dyeing process. 


Ad did iG a Od fo gd fo 2 


Fic. 336.—DyeInc MacHiIne ror KnitTED TuBULAR FaBric (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CO.). 


295 


296 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


After dyeing, the dye liquor may be removed and replaced by water or other liquor 
suitable for washing the dyed goods. 

This machine is simple in construction and consequently gives little trouble in use. 
It may obviously be employed also for the scouring of knitted materials. 

In the design of rotary machines, attention must be paid to the perforations of 
the inner cylinder. Such perforations must be perfectly smooth, so that they may 
cause no damage to the material being dyed. Also the stuffing-boxes on the central 
rotating shaft must be capable of preventing leakage of boiling dye liquors without 
producing much friction on the driving shaft. 

Winch Dyeing Machines.—For dyeing long lengths of knitted tubular fabric the 
machine shown in Fig. 335 is generally employed. This machine consists of an 
elliptical wooden winch fitted above a wooden dye vat and driven through the fast 


| 


LTT ATT TON 


[jw sas 


Ao ae 


=~ => 


say ara IY pay TTS 


Pe aes tesa ge 


ic 


STH BACK VIEW SHEWING LIFTING AND 


AUTOMATIC STOP MOTIONS. 


ieee ee 4 TSE ON 2S eae 


Fic. 337.—Fo._pEp Fasric DyEING MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


and loose pulleys shown. The usual arrangements are provided for heating the dye 
liquor with live steam. In operation, the fabrics, sewn end to end so as to form 
endless chains of about 60 yards in length, are threaded over the winch and con- 
tinuously drawn out of and into the dye liquor by the action of the rotating winch. 
In many machines the winch is circular, but the elliptical winch in the machine shown 
is advantageous, since it gives a plaiting motion to the fabric during its fall into the 
dye liquor. It is usual to provide such a machine with a peg rail in front of the 
winch, so that the endless chains of fabric may be maintained separate and prevented 
from tangling. In some machines, a device is added to the peg rail, so that if entangle- 
ment does occur and a strain is produced on the fabric the drive to the winch is 
automatically cut off and damage to the fabric thereby avoided. 

Another machine acting on similar principles is shown in Fig. 336, but this 
machine is constructed from perfectly stainless metal and therefore does not suffer 
from the many disadvantages of wooden machines. 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 297 


Both the above machines are, of course, quite satisfactory for scouring and 
bleaching knitted goods before dyeing. 

Folded Fabric Dyeing Machine —A machine of somewhat unusual construction but 
very useful for certain classes of woven and knitted textile material, particularly those 
which are fragile or which cannot be subjected to strain, is shown in Fig. 337. Its 
general construction is very similar to that of the skein dyeing machine shown in 


Se cas 


Fic. 338.—Printing MACHINE FOR HosrtERY (MELLOR, BROMLEY AND CoO.). 


Fig. 266 (page 249). In this case, however, the knitted or woven fabric to be dyed 
is arranged to hang in folds from horizontal rods as shown at E. In operation, the 
fabric is lowered into the dye liquor contained in the vat underneath and the dye 
liquor then continuously circulated through the material by means of a pump. After 
dyeing, the fabric is raised out of the dye liquor, the latter run off and, if necessary, 
the vat filled with water and the fabric again lowered and washed. The machine is 
very useful, since it allows fabric to be dyed and treated with the minimum of handling 
and without subjection to strains likely to produce damage. 


298 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Printing Machine for Small Hosiery Goods——Although attention has been given 
to the machinery for printing all classes of fabrics in Chapter III, it will be convenient 
to describe a small printing machine suitable for printing single colour stripes or patterns 
on stockings and similar small hosiery goods. The machine is shown in Fig. 338, and 
consists essentially of a vertical printing plate (shown in the centre of the machine 
below three colour rollers) and an inclined plate (shown to the left of the machine 
opposite to the printing plate) on which the hosiery goods are secured. The printing 
plate may contain any suitable pattern in relief. Colour is supplied to the top roller 
and during the automatic working of the machine is transferred by frictional contact 
to the bottom roller, which periodically rolls over the surface of the vertical printing 
plate, thereby making it ready for printing. As soon as the roller has returned to its 


Fic. 339.—HorizontaL DryER FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FaBric (MANDEL, McIver Co., U.S.A.). 


upper position the plate holding the hosiery advances towards the printing plate and 
becomes vertical. Immediately afterwards it presses against the printing plate so 
that the hosiery becomes printed and then returns to its former nearly horizontal 
position ready for the removal of the printed hosiery and its replacement by other 
hosiery. All the above operations are automatically effected and the machine allows 
designs to be printed evenly and rapidly. : 

Drying Machines——Loose knitted goods are dried in brattice machines (see 
page 286). Long lengths of tubular fabric are generally dried while hung in loops 
from horizontal poles within hot air chambers, the looping being carried out by hand 
labour or by machinery as in the looped cloth drying machine previously described 
(see page 69). Another method for drying tubular fabric is shown in Fig. 339. 
It consists of a horizontal pipe attached to a blower fan which is in direct communica- 
tion with a large gas burner. The tubular fabric is threaded on the horizontal pipe 
as shown in Fig. 339, and is then drawn upwards over an internal cylindrical spreader 
such as is shown in Fig. 340 (a view of a vertical machine) and there rolled. During 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 299 


its passage to the rolling apparatus, hot air 
(produced by the burning coal gas) is blown 
through the interstices of the fabric, and it 
is thus rapidly dried. The horizontal or 
vertical pipe is insulated so that it does not 
scorch the fabric upon it, the air delivered 
by the fan being at 200 to 400 degrees F. 
The apparatus is very compact and the 
fabric dried by means of it has a lofty 
condition. 
Finishing Machines.—Small hosiery goods 
are finished by methods of stretching or 
pressing while hot and moist. Machines for 
this purpose may consist of polished metal 
forms (internally heated) such as are used 
for stockings, or steam-heated cavity plates 
capable of being pressed together by hydraulic 
or dead-set pressure, or of an endless blanket 
passing around steam heated cylinders such 
that the knitted goods pass through the 
machine while being pressed between two 
layers of heated blanket. 
At the present time, the finishing of 
artificial silk knitted tubular fabric is of 
considerable importance, and a number of 
machines have been devised or adapted for 
this purpose. In nearly all cases, the process 
of finishing consists of suitably conditioning 
or damping knitted fabric and then subjecting 
it to the combined action of heat and pressure 
while being stretched to its desired width. 
One type of finishing machine is shown 
in Figs. 341 and 343. Machines of this type 
consist of two polished hollow metal bowls 
about 9 inches in diameter heated internally 
with steam. Usually both bowls are posi- 
tively driven at the same speed, so that fabric 
passing between them is not subject to friction. 
In front of the bowls is a slotted pipe or 
other similar device by means of which a 
mist of steam may be blown upwards into 
the fabric passing over it and forward between 
the bowls. Stretching of tubular fabric is 
not an easy matter and is effected by various 
methods. In one method, a wooden or 
polished metal (aluminium) frame as shown in 


Fie. 340.—VeERtTIcAL DRYER FOR KNITTED 
TuBuLAR Fasric (MAanpeLt, McIver Co., 
U.S.A.). 


Fig. 342 is placed inside the fabric and is allowed to float before the bowls of the finishing 
machine as shown in Fig. 341, being prevented from going forward between the rollers 


300 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


by the rubber stops also shown. The width of the finished fabric is set by the width 
of the frame, or biscuit as it is generally called, and for each different width a separate 
biscuit is required. In another method, the fabric passes over a frame having diverging 


~ 


Fic. 341.—Finisoinc MacuInE ror Knirrep TuBULAR FaBric (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CO.). 


arms (also fitted with anti-friction freely rotating wheels) as shown in the machine 
in Fig. 348 (page 305); the diverging arms are capable of adjustment to any angle 
and therefore allow adjustment to suit any desired width of fabric. 


Travel of t| Fabric 


Biscu/t 


Fic. 342.—Biscuir ror TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC. 


In operating the above machine, knitted tubular fabric is damped by steam (free 
from drops of water) and stretched to width as it enters the machine and is lustred 
and permanently set to width by passage between the heated polished bowls. On 
emerging from the bowls the fabric is batched up on a roller which rests lightly on the 


a ee. 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 301 


upper bowl. The finish produced on the fabric is determined by the pressure and 
temperature of the bowls. It is therefore essential that the pressure between the 
rollers should be capable of adjustment. In the machine shown in Fig. 341 the 
pressure may be obtained by spring pressure or dead set pressure or by lever and weights. 


SNEYDEENGHECOES 


Fic. 343.—Finisninc MAcHINE ror KnirTeD TUBULAR FaBric (SNEYD ENGINEERING Co.). 


It is often desirable to allow conditioned or damped fabric to lie for some hours 
in order that the moisture may be uniformly distributed and absorbed by the fabric, 
so that in some instances fabric is passed before finishing through a padding mangle 
such as that shown in Figs. 344 and 345. This machine comprises three wooden 
bowls, the lowest bowl rotating in a trough containing water or any suitable finishing 
solution. Pressure between the bowls is regulated by spring pressure or lever and 
weight. Usually the upper two bowls are wrapped with cotton or other fabric and 


302 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


this becomes moistened with the water in the trough by reason of the frictional contact 
between the bowls. As knitted fabric passes between the two upper bowls it becomes 
moistened and it is then immediately batched up on a loose, freely rotating roller 
shown resting on the upper bowl in Fig. 344. The construction of the machine is 


cree mene tinea 
Lo eee eee 


sono Sehnert ear meeaS RS 


PRESSURE 
BY SPRING 


PRESSURE BY 
LEVER & WEIGHT 


by SJ HANDLE FOR RAISING 
ec & LOWERING TROUGH, 


Fic. 345.—Construction or Two-Bowt PappING MACHINE FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FABRIC 
(SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CoO.). 


indicated in Fig. 345, where an arrangement is shown by which the trough may be 
raised or lowered when desired. This type of machine is simple in construction but 
very useful and reliable. 

Two-bed Steam Hosiery Press—The finishing machines described above have the 
advantage that they are continuous in their action and thus allow a large output. 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 303 


Some finishers, however, prefer intermittent finishing machines, particularly for small 
hosiery goods. In Fig. 346 is shown a machine of this type and consisting of two 
steam-heated cast iron plates or chests capable of being pressed together; knitted 
material to be finished is placed between the plates. Steam at 20 to 30 lb. pressure is 
supplied to the plates through the spring pipes shown on the left of the machine and 
the pressure on the plates is obtained by swinging round the weighted upper horizontal 
arm and thereby screwing down the plates. When the machine is used for fabric, 
the plates may be swung round through 90 degrees, so that the greatest length of fabric 
may be treated at one time. In finishing small hosiery such as stockings, it is usual 


Fic. 346.—Two-Bep STEAM Press For Hosiery (8S. PEGG AND Son). 


to place them on shaped wood plates and press these between the hot plates for one 
or two minutes. In finishing lengths of knitted fabrics in this type of machine it 
is of course necessary to advance the fabric intermittently through the machine. 
The design of such plate press machines must ensure that a uniform pressure is 
obtained over the whole area of the plates and the latter must be strengthened so 
that they do not warp. The limits of motion of the plates are adjustable by 
means of stops, and the upward rise of the upper plate is assisted by compression 
springs. 

Three-bed presses are also employed and these allow a double output of finished 
material in machines occupying no more ground space than a two-bed press. They 
are very similar in construction to the two-bed press described above. 

Blanket Finishing Machines.—Artificial silk knitted tubular fabric may also be 


304 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


finished by passage through machines in which it is pressed by a travelling blanket 
against a steam-heated polished metal drum, and such a machine is shown in Fig. 347. 
This machine is similar in construction to that previously described (page 185), and 
the blanket and drum may be both driven, or the drum may be driven by the travelling 
blanket. Tubular fabric may be conditioned before entering the machine either by 
means of a separate padding machine shown in Fig. 344 (page 302) or a perforated 
or slotted steam pipe placed immediately under the fabric entering the machine. 
The width of the fabric is determined by use of a suitable biscuit or other stretching 
device (page 300). 

Another type of blanket finishing machine or calender is shown in Fig. 348, which 
in principle is similar to that described above, except that the fabric passes between 


Fic. 347.—BLANKET FINISHING MACHINE FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FABRIC (SWINDELLS 
ENGINEERING Co.). 


small steam-heated bowls. From Fig. 348 it will be seen that an adjustable stretcher 
is employed and is of such a type that “ bowing”’ of the whole of the knitted fabric 
is prevented. It will be realised that when knitted fabric is stretched by means of the 
biscuit shown in Fig. 342 the friction of that portion of the fabric in contact with the 
edges of the biscuit somewhat retards its passage forward and this leads to undesirable 
distortion of the fabric or what is commonly known as “ bowing.” In the machine 
shown in Fig. 348 friction is reduced by the freely rotating wheels attached to the 
diverging sides of the stretcher and also by the inclined plates in the central portion 
of the stretcher. This stretcher has an additional rack and pinion adjustment so that 
its width may be slightly altered when covered with fabric. 

Raising Machines for Hosiery—Hosiery goods of cotton and wool are frequently 
raised or given a “nap” so that they may appear to be soft and wool-like. For 


i i ee 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS | 305 


this purpose several types of machines may be used, but Figs. 349 and 350 illustrate 
two useful types. 

The machine shown in Fig. 349 is a small brushing machine which is suitable for 
small hosiery goods. It consists of a rotating frame carrying divergent rows of freely 
rotating teazles or wire bristles. In operation, the hosiery goods are merely held for a 
few moments against the rotating teazles and the fibres of the goods thereby brushed 
up and a nap raised. 


Fic. 348.—PEGSON STEAM-HEATED CALENDER FOR KnirTTeD Fasric (S. PEGG anp Son). 


The fleecing machine shown in Fig. 350 is more suitable for dealing with fabric. 
It essentially consists of a feeding roller in contact with a roller covered with wire 
carding but rotating at a different speed ; fabric passing between them is thus subjected 
to a brushing action. The nap or fleece produced is determined by the relative motion 
of the feeding and fleecing rollers, and provision is therefore made for driving the 
feed roller at various speeds. The machine shown treats only one side of the material, 
but duplex machines are made by which knitted fabric may be raised on both sides 
during one passage through the machine. 


Knitted Fabric Inspection Machine.—Although the dyeing of artificial silk knitted 
20 


306 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


tubular and plain fabric may appear to be a comparatively simple process, yet, owing 
to the possibility of uneven grades of silk being present in the same fabric and the 


Fic. 349.—SmMaLt BrusHING MAcHINE wiTtH TEAZLES (S. PEGG AND Soy). 


Fic. 350.—SINGLE RoLLeR FLEECING MACHINE (8. PEGG snp Son). 


great affinity of artificial silks for dyestuffs, faulty dyeing is comparatively frequent 
when carried out by inexperienced dyers. It is therefore necessary to make use’ of 


SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 307 


an inspection machine such as that shown in Fig. 351, which may be used for both 
plain and tubular fabrics. This machine comprises a batch roller, B, or a tray, G, 
for fabric entering the machine, tension rollers, C, the inspection table, E, a draw roller, 


Fig. 351.—Ciotra INspEcTION MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


A, and a batching up roller, F. Fabric is drawn upwards over the inspection table 
and on roller F by reason of frictional contact between rollers A and F. In the case 
of tubular fabric, a biscuit is placed within the fabric so that it rests on table E, thereby 


DRA WING OFF FRONT FROM AA 
GUARDS REMOVED TO OAL on bers 
CUTTERS ~C VIEW DRIVING 


eee =e 
LOWER CUTTER ef it 
) tt “P| 


SECTION ; 
AT A.A. exe ss IN SECTION 


Fic. 352.—Currina MacHINE ror Knitrep TuBuLaR Fasrics (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). 


stretching out the fabric to its full width; the passage of the biscuit forward is 
prevented by suitable stops. A foot pedal allows the machine to be stopped and 


started as desired. 


308 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


Cutting Machine for Tubular Knitted Fabric—Before manufacture into garments, 
knitted tubular fabric is frequently cut lengthwise so as to reduce it to plain fabric. 
A machine suitable for this purpose is shown in Fig. 352, the fabric being cut while 
drawn forward over the guiding board at AA by the rubber-covered drawing-off rolls. 
Cutting is effected as the fabric passes between the rotating circular knives, B and C. 
The machine is capable of cutting knitted fabric accurately and at a very rapid rate ; 
it is suitable for printers of knitted fabrics. 

After finishing, hosiery and knitted materials are folded and parcelled in various 
forms, but it is not proposed to deal in this book with the machines employed for 
this purpose. 


CHAPTER IX 
MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 


In previous chapters all the most important machines employed for bleaching, 
dyeing, printing and finishing textile materials have been described, but it now remains 
in this concluding chapter to draw attention to a few accessory parts associated with 
such machines. 

Steam Traps.—In all machines for the heating or drying of yarns and fabrics, steam 
pipe lines and steam-heated double-jacketed vessels in which steam is stored under 
pressure, heat losses by radiation and conduction result in partial or complete conden- 
sation of the steam and the formation of a corresponding quantity of water. This 
water may be drained to a suitable reservoir and periodically discharged by means of 


Fic. 353a.—CoNsTRUCTION OF LANCASTER STEAM TRAP (LANCASTER AND TONGE). 


a hand-operated valve, but in most instances it is most satisfactory to arrange for 
the automatic discharge of the condensed steam by means of a steam trap. 

Several different types of steam traps are available, their design being governed 
by the conditions under which they are used. For instance, the water may be discharged 
to a higher or a lower level than the trap itself, the trap may be connected to a source 
of high or low pressure steam, the discharged water may be at 100 degrees C., or under 
less economical conditions it may be nearly as hot as the steam with which it is in 
contact. Generally, steam traps are divisible into two classes, those which work 
with a float and those whose action depends on the expansion of a metal rod or 
strip. 

Fig. 353a shows a “‘ Lancaster” steam trap (Lancaster and Tonge) of the non- 
lifting type with float control. E is a hollow cylindrical float perforated at F, having 


a tubular valve, N, and connected to a screwed spindle, S, at the end of which is a 
309 


310 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


loose valve which is alternately opened and shut by the rising and falling of the float 
rotating the screwed spindle, the whole being contained in a cast iron box. 

The normal position of the trap is with the float at the bottom of the box and the 
valve full open. When water accumulates in the vessel to which the trap is connected, 


Fic. 353b.—ConstTRUCTION OF LANCASTER STEAM TRAP (LANCASTER AND TONGE). 


it flows through the loose valve and passes down the hollow spindle, 8, into the float. 
The float thus becomes waterlogged and stays at the bottom till all the water is dis- 
charged. Steam then enters the float and drives out the water contained therein 
upwards and outwards through side holes in 
the head of the tubular valve, N, the water 
ultimately filling the box and overflowing 
through the top right-hand opening (Fig. 
353a). The float now filled with steam 
becomes buoyant, rises and closes the valve. 
The steam left in the float condenses, water 
from the box then flows into it from the 
box through F, the float again becomes water- 
logged, sinks and thereby opens the valve so 
that the cycle of operations may be repeated. 
Water drained from steam at high pres- 
sures re-evaporates into steam when it enters 
the trap (at atmospheric pressure), and the 
escape of this steam is arranged for by the 
circular opening in the tubular valve, N 
(Fig. 3536). By rotation of the head of N, 
the escape of the re-evaporated water. through 
the opening can be regulated so that the 
water draining away from the trap may be 
at any temperature up to that of the steam 
as desired. 
Fae ation teres ee Towaui It will be noticed that the only wearing 
parts are the loose valve and its seating, 
and the trap is so designed that these parts can be readily removed without disturbing 
other parts. Also if owing to wear in the valve the float rises too high, this fault can 
be corrected by loosening the bolts shown in the quadrant (Fig. 353c) and re-setting 


ee 


MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 311 


the position of the float. The right-hand attachment to the trap shown in Fig. 353¢ 
consists of a copper gauze filter which resists the passage into the trap of solid particles. 

Any excessive pressure exerted against the face of the loose valve would, by virtue 
of the quickness of the screw thread of 8, force it open, so that the valve also acts as 
a safety valve. 


Fic. 354.—Steam Trap (ROYLEs). 


Fic. 355.—ConstrRucTION oF SYPHONIA STEAM TRAP (ROYLEs). 


Another type of float steam trap is that known as Royle’s Syphonia Steam Trap 
and shown in Figs. 354 and 355, and its action can most easily be understood by 
considering the trap to be full of water. The float, F, thus rises and opens the inlet 
valve, E (Fig. 356), connected to the vessel being drained. Water is thus able to drain, 
through the open valve, E, and overflow through the syphon, H. When steam 
arrives, water is forced out of the trap through H so that the float sinks and partially 


312 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


closes the valve E. It will now be obvious that this ejectment action will cease as 
soon as the float has so far closed the valve, E, that the amount of steam passing is 
absorbed by the natural condensation of the box. The valve, E, is therefore never 
absolutely closed and condensed water collecting above O at first passes slowly into 
the box through E, adds to the water in the box and raises the float, F, thereby further 


it 


TEE 


Fic. 356.—INLET VALVE FOR STEAM TRAP (ROYLES). 


opening the valve, E, and admits an increasing amount of water until steam arrives, 
when the water is driven out of the syphon, H, and the valve, E, closes as before. 

It will be noticed that there is never more than a slight pressure in the trap and 
that, in case of obstruction, it is merely necessary to remove the cover, lift the float 


Fig. 357.—SypHonta Rapip STEAM TRAP (ROYLES). 


and allow steam to blow through the trap. L is an air valve, actuated by the float 
lever, its function being to discharge the air on starting. The valve, E, is the only 
wearing part of the trap, and this, being simple in design, is easily renewable. By 
the addition of a check valve to prevent the return of the water, this type of trap 
can be used to elevate the discharged water. 


MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 313 


In many instances, it is essential that condensed water should be discharged as 
rapidly as possible even if there is an unavoidable loss of heat due to the discharge of 
water hotter than 100 degrees C. Under such conditions the bucket type of steam 
trap is most suitable and some examples are shown here. Fig. 357 indicates the 
construction of Royle’s Syphonia Rapid steam trap, in which condensed water flows 
into the cast iron box, A, by the union inlet, B. When sufficient water has accumu- 
lated in the box it overflows into the open bucket float, C, and destroys its buoyancy 
so that it sinks, thereby opening the valve, D, thus allowing the water to discharge 
through the syphon pipe, E, and out of the trap through F. When steam enters the 
trap, the water in the bucket is displaced through F,, and the bucket again becoming 
buoyant, it rises and closes the valve, D; the cycle of operations may then be repeated. 


Fie. 358.—LancasterR BuckET Type STEAM Trap (LANCASTER AND TONGE). 


By means of a hand screw in the top of the trap, the bucket may be depressed 
and air, steam and water allowed to blow through the trap as desired. The valve is 
designed so that it may be easily renewed. 

Fig. 358 shows a similar Lancaster bucket steam trap. C is a free inlet for steam 
and water and the outlet is controlled by a valve, D, which is operated by the 
motion of the bucket float, E, to which it is connected by the rod, F, and lever, G. 
The lever allows an advantage of five to one over the valve. When water enters at C, 
it first fills the space outside the bucket, E, and then flows over the top of it until 
the bucket loses its buoyancy and falls to the bottom. In so doing, it opens the 
valve, D, to which it is connected, and when the water is rapidly discharged from the 
bucket this becomes buoyant again, thus rising and closing the valve, D, until the 
bucket is again filled, when the cycle of operations is repeated. 


314 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


The Simplicity steam trap is mentioned here as being of design distinct from those 
described above. It is shown in Fig. 359 and contains a hollow, seamless ball of 
heavily nickelled copper, which floats to and is held against the discharge bushing (3) 
by the unbalanced steam pressure in the trap. As water accumulates in the trap, 
the water level, W, rises and the buoyant force of this water rolls the ball upward on 
the face of the discharge bushing (3), thereby exposing part or the entire area of the 
orifice, Y, and allowing the discharge of the water. When the water level again 
drops, the ball drops and covers the orifice and is again held tightly against the 
discharge bushing by unbalanced steam pressure. Thus at all times a water seal is 
provided between the steam in the top of the trap and the discharge orifice, Y, so 
that the possibility of steam leakage is eliminated. 

The wearing parts are the discharge bushing and the floating ball, and to avoid 
trouble in this respect, the centre of the bushing is fitted with a special nickel alloy. 


Fig. 359.—Simericiry STEAM Trap (KEy Fic. 360.—ORpINAaRY STEAM DRYER 
ENGINEERING Co.). (LANCASTER AND TONGE). 


Should a worn spot appear on the ball (this is less likely as the ball constantly rotates) 
a drop of solder can be applied to it and filed smooth; this causes the ball to turn 
over and keep the worn spot away from the discharge bushing. 

Steam Dryers.—During its transit from boiler to engine or machine through pipes, 
steam steadily condenses owing to heat losses by radiation and when dry steam is 
required for textile machines it becomes necessary to use steam dryers. A common 
form of dryer is shown in Fig. 360 and consists of a cylindrical chamber with a baffle 
plate. Steam entering at the left-hand inlet is deflected downwards, and then rises 
to leave by the right-hand outlet. Drops of water being carried forward by the steam 
have a greater momentum than the steam, and when deflected downwards they 
impinge on the bottom of the dryer and unite to form a small pool, which is then 
automatically drained away through an attached steam trap (see page 309). 

An improved and more satisfactory steam dryer is shown in Fig. 361, and is formed 
by a cylindrical receiver surrounding a central vertical pipe which forms the outlet 
from the receiver. Owing to this construction, steam entering at A descends in a 


ee 


MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 315 


spiral direction round the central pipe as shown, at an average speed of about 90 feet 
per second. Drops of condensed steam are thus vigorously flung against the sides 
and bottom of the dryer, which are ribbed, and the drops coalesce and drain to the 
bottom and thence away to the steam trap. The steam, in a dry condition, finally 
passes upwards and outwards through the central pipe. In Fig. 361, C is a tap for 
draining mud or solid particles and B is the drain to a steam trap. 


1 


E 


B 


Fic. 362a.—RoLLER BEARING 
(RANSOME AND MARLEs). 


Fic. 361.—LANcASTER ‘‘ CENTRAL TUBE” Hie: ea ee eee NG 
Stream DryER (LANCASTER AND TONGE). (RANSOME AND MARLES). 


Bearings for Rotating Shafts —The tendency to-day is to provide, wherever possible, 
all machines for treating textile materials with ball or roller bearings. Such bearings 
not only considerably reduce friction and consequent loss of power, but they also 
allow machines to run more smoothly—a point of much importance now that artificial 
silk is being widely used in the construction of fabrics. for many classes of fabric it 
has become necessary to reduce warp tensions and particularly irregular warp tensions. 
It is not proposed to deal in detail with this aspect of textile machinery, but attention 
is drawn to a typical form of bearing shown in Figs. 362a and 362b, which can be used 


316 TEXTILE MACHINERY 


on most classes of machines, particularly those employed for the treatment of fragile 
fabrics. These bearings may be fitted to any existing shaft, the bearing shown in 


Fic. 363.—FRicTION CLuTcH (Sir J. FarmMER, NORTON AND CoO.). 


Fig. 362a being provided with a ball race to withstand thrust. These bearings are of | 
the roller type and owing to being enclosed in a spherical housing they can accommodate 
the irregular motion of shafts which are not “true” or bent, without appreciable 


[SHAFT | TG eee | FRONT COVER | JAW | 
ADJUSTING STUD! 
SES G S| | LEVER 


\ 


SLIDING 
SLEEVE 


Fic. 364.—CoNsTRUCTION OF FricTION CLUTCH (SIR J. Fic. 365.—Avutomatic SLip-WINCH 
Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). (GEORGE TAYLOR, LTD.). 


increase of friction losses. Such bearings are suitable for jigs, calenders and all kinds 
of finishing machinery. . 

Friction Clutches—Just as there is a tendency to improve the bearings of textile 
machines, efforts are also being made to improve methods for starting and stopping 


MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 317 


machines. Under all these improvements lies the necessity for subjecting fabrics 
and textile material to the minimum of strain. This is particularly important with 
machines dealing with wet fabrics containing artificial silk, for all cellulose artificial 
silks lose about two-thirds of their strength when wet. Friction clutches for all 
machines are therefore being adopted. Friction clutches for jigs have been previously 
described (page 90), but a useful friction clutch for heavier machines such as calenders 
is shown in Fig. 363. This clutch is of the multiplate type and its construction is 
clearly shown in Fig. 364. Compression of the plates is obtained by the sliding sleeve 
shown. Machines fitted with such a clutch may be started with the minimum of 
snatch or jerk. 

Automatic Slip-Winch.—Winches (see page 34) are usually positively keyed to 
the shaft which produces their rotation. Hence when a winch is drawing fabric, the 
winch continues to rotate whether or not the fabric becomes fast or entangled, and 
damaged fabric may thus result. The slip-winch shown in Fig. 365 is not keyed to 
its driving shaft, but grips the latter through two spring-actuated Ferodo-lined 
clutches. Consequently any excessive drag or pull of the fabric on the winch causes 
it to slip on the driving shaft. This type of winch is therefore a satisfactory safety 
device. 


INDEX 


AGEING chamber, 98, 154 
for looped fabric, 162 
Ageing and steaming chambers; 


Mouthpiece for 


Air and gas compressor, 24, 25, 26 

Aniline black dyeing machines, 98, 101 

Automatic fabric guiders, 60 

Automatic piling machinery for bleaching croft, 28 
for kiers, 45 

Automatic slip winch, 317 


Back filling mangles, 177 

Back greys for printing machines, 137, 149, 151 

Bearings for shafts, 315 

Beaters for washing machines, 165 

Beating, brushing and cleaning machine for fabrics, 
114 

Beetling machines, 203, 204 

Belt stretching machine, 168 

Biscuits for hosiery finishing machines, 300 

Blanket drying and finishing machines, 185 

finishing machines for hosiery, 303 

Blanket washing machines, 151 

Blankets for printing machines, 137, 149, 151 

Bleaching machines for fabric, 48, 50, 51 

for yarn, 221 

Bowls; Arrangement of 

calender, 194 

; Construction of soft calender 

for starching mangles, 177 

for wool scouring machines, 267 

Box wheel of printing roller. 139 

Brattice drying machine, 286 

Brattice scouring machine for yarn, 224 

Brattices for wool scouring machines, 270 

Brush damping machine, 172 

Brushing machines, 113, 114 

Brushing rollers, 113 

Bucket steam traps, 313 

Burr crushing machines 277 


in a_seven-bow! 


, 201 


Calenders; Chasing , 188 
; Construction of , 188, 189 
—; Embossing , 188 
——; Finishing , 188 
—; Friction , 191 
—; Glazing , 188 
—; Schreiner , 188 
——; Side frames of , 189, 190 


; Swissing , 188 

Canroy machine, 120 

Capacities of centrifuges, 231 

Caustic lye recovery apparatus; 
109 

Cavity segment drying cylinder, 178 

Cell drying machine, 67 

Centonip skein dyeing machine, 248 

Centrifuge for acid impregnated wool, 229 

Centrifuge; Materials of construction of 

; Consumption of power for , 239 

; Electrically driven 5 AD 

Chasing calenders, 188 

Cheese dyeing machine, 259 

Chest and cylinder drying apparatus, 153 

Circular skein mercerising machine, 264 

Cleaning doctor for printing machines, 137 

Clip chains, 124 

Clip stretching machine, 120 

Clips for stenters, 128, 129, 130, 131 

**Coloras’”’ skein dyeing machine, 250 

Colour mixing pans, 135, 136 

Combined ordinary and back filling mangles, 178 


“* Matter ’? ——, 


» 228 


318 


Compensating device for fabrics, 133, 145 
Compound leverage for printing machines, 138 
Compound slides for printing machines, 140 
Conditioning machines for hosiery, 301, 302 
Conical opening rollers, 58 

Construction of calenders, 188, 189 
Construction of starching mangles, 174 
Continuous drying machine for loose wool, 277 
Continuous dyeing machine, 92 

Continuous skein mercerising machine, 264 
Cop dyeing machines, 255 

Cop holders, 257 

Cop spindles, 255, 257 


Cotton; Heat liberated during mercerisation of 
, 104 
; Impurities in ——, 17 


Crabbing machines, 212 

Crease removing machinery, 51, 53 
Curved bar expanders, 52 

Cutting blades for shearing machines, 119 
Cutting machine for knitted fabric, 308 


Damping machines for fabric, 171 

for knitted fabric, 301 

Dead set pins, 36 

Dead set pressure, 36 

De-gumming vat for silk skeins, 224 
Differential gear for stenter machines, 124, 127 
Dollheads, 66, 67 

Double schreiner calender, 201 

Drag rollers for printing machines, 137 
Drying cylinders, 61, 64 

Drying figured fabrics, 178 

Drying machines, 61, 283, 284, 286, 298 
Drying machines for printed fabrics, 151, 153, 154 
; Horizontal , 66 

for looped fabric, 69, 73, 74 

for loose fibres, 278, 281, 282 

for woollen fabrics, 77, 78 

for yarns, 232, 236, 238 

with cells, 68 

with conditioning arrangements, 237 
with rollers, 65 

with winches, 66 

Drying and stretching machines for fabric, 178 
for yarns, 240 

Dyeing machinery for fabrics, 81 

for hosiery, 291 

Dyeing machines for fabrics, 81 

for hosiery, 291 

for yarn, 242, 244, 246, 249, 253 
Dye sticks, 242 

Dye Vats, 242 

Dunging ranges, 167 

Duplex printing machines, 151 


LITT I 


Edmeston open-width kier, 47 

Eight-colour printing machine, 142 
Electrically driven centrifuge, 230 
Embossing calender, 188, 203 
Emery rollers for mote-clearing machine, 120 
Expanders; Curved bar » 52 


Fabric guiders, automatic, 60, 
Fabric; Impregnating machines for 
Faller beam for shearing machine, 119 
Figured Fabrics, Drying 5 Lt8 
Finishing calenders, 188 

Finishing machinery, 168 

for hosiery, 303 

for knitted goods, 299 

for woollen fabrics, 209 


» 28 


INDEX 


Five bowl rack geared calender, 194 

Flat plate pressing machine, 214 

Folded knitted fabric dyeing machine, 297 
Four cutter shearing machine, 119 
Friction calenders, 191 

Friction clutch, 316 

Friction clutches for jigs, 90 

Friction starch mangles, 176 

Fuel for singeing machines, 2] 

Fulling mill for hosiery, 290 

Furnishing rollers for printing machines, 138 


Gas burners for singeing machines, 23, 24, 25 
Gas flame singeing machines, 21, 22, 23, 27 
Gas heated plate singeing machines, 22 
Gilled steam pipes, 71 

Glazing calenders, 188 

Guiding rollers, 54 


Hardite, 83, 243, 293 

Harrow types of wool scouring machines, 267, 269 

Heat liberated during mercerisation of cotton, 104 

Horizontal drying machines, 66 

Hosiery dyeing machine utilising compressed air, 
291 


Hosiery finishing machines; Biscuits for 5 Bh0i0) 
Hosiery; Fulling mill for , 290 
; Raising machines for , 304 


; Rotary dyeing machine for » 293 
Hot air drying chamber for printed fabric, 135 
Hot air stenters, 61, 

Hot flue, 135 

Huillard open-width kier, 45 

Hydraulic pressure for schreimer calenders, 199 
Hydroexhauster for fabrics, 77 
Hydroextractors, 224 

Hydrosulphite ageing machine, 160 


Impregnating machines for fabric, 28 
Impurities in cotton, 17 

Indented steam pipes, 287 

Indigo dyeing machines, 95, 98 
Injectors, steam, 39 

Inspection machine for knitted fabric, 305 


Jackson open-width kier, 45, 46 

Jefferson Walker kier, 42, 43 

Jig rollers, 88, 90 

Jig with constant speed arrangements, 87 
Jig with squeezing rollers, 87 

Jig with submerged draw rollers, 90 
Jigging motion for stenters, 178 


Jigging stenter; Construction of yo 
Jigging stentering range, 181 
Jigs, 83, 85 
Kiers for fabrics, 38 
; Jefferson-Walker ——.,, 42, 43 


yarns, 219 

Kiers; Mather eeoD a Lo 
high pressure, 39 

low pressure, 38 

open width, 45, 46, 47 
Knitted fabric inspection machine, 305 
3; Cutting machine for 
—— ——; Damping machines for 


eres 
meee Ei 


Ledger blades for shearing machines, 119 
Levered pressure system for mangles, 36 
Lint doctor for printing machines, 137 
Looped cloth ageing machine, 162 
Looped cloth drying machine, 69, 73, 74 
Poles for GP.23 


2 


319 


, 267 
; 278, 281, 


Loose cotton; Bleaching machinery for 

Loose fibres; Drying machines for 
282 

—— ——,; Opening machines for 

Loose wool; Machine for drying 
277 


» 282 
continuously, 


Machines for conditioning hosiery, 301, 302 

—— for dyeing mercerised yarn, 242 

—— for dyeing warps, 252 

—— for removing creases in fabrics, 51, 53 

Malting apparatus with time wheel, 167 

Mandrel of printing roller, 140 

Mangle for mercerising machine, 104 

Mangles, 60 

; Back filling liz 

; Combined ordinary and back filling 

; Levered pressure system for , 36 

Materials of construction of centrifuge, 228 

Mather kier, 39, 40 

‘* Matter’ caustic lye recovery apparatus, 109 

Measuring and lapping machine, 214 

Mercerisation of cotton; Heat liberated during —— 
104 

Mercerised yarn; Machines for dyeing ——, 242 

Mercerising machinery, 81 

—— —— for fabric, 101, 109 

for yarns, 260, 263 

without stenter frame, 112 

Milling machines, 75, 77 

Monel metal, 247 

Mote cleaning machine, 120 

; Emery rollers for , 120 

Mouthpiece for ageing and steaming chambers, 160 

Multitubular heaters, 39, 287 


—, 178 


Natural lustre finishing machine, 208 
Nip fittings for printing machines, 139 


One-colour printing machine, 137 
Opening machines for loose fibres, 282 
Opening rollers; Conical ry tite! 
Open-width kier; EKdmeston 47 
3; Huillard 45 

—— ——; Jackson ——,, 45, 46 


Padding mangles, 91, 92, 93 

Paddle dyeing machine, 291 

Palmer finishing machine, 185 

Para Red dyeing machine, 95 

Pegson steam heated calender for hosiery, 305 

Piling machinery for bleaching crofts, 28 

for kiers, 45 

Pin clips for stenter machines, 78 

Plaiting machine, 216 

Plate for singeing machines, 19 

Plate singeing machines, 19 

Pole-carrying device for looped cloth drying machine, 
ial 


Poles for looped cloth drying machine, 71 

Preparing range, 131 

Pressure bowl for printing machine, 137, 149 

Printed fabrics; Drying machines for 
153, 154 

; Furnishing rollers for 

—— ——; Lint doctors for fe LES 

; Nip fittings for 7 ee) 

Printing machinery for woven fabrics, 113, 137 


sole 


, 138 


; Cleaning doctors for , 137 
hosiery, 298 
Printing machines; Drag rollers for low 


; Duplex 3 LoL 


220 
9 2 
7 


, 142° 


2 


. 


320 


Printing rollers, 139, 140, 148 
; Box wheels for 
—— ——; Compound slides for 
; Mandrels of , 140 

Prongs for rakes of scouring machines, 273 


, 139 
, 140 


Raising gig, 213 

Raising machines for hosiery, 304 
Rigging machine, 216 

Ring-oiled bearings of calenders, 191 
Roller washing machine for fabric, 29, 30 
with spring pressure, 36 
Rope dye beck, 81 

Rotary dyeing machine for hosiery, 293 
Rotary pressing machine, 23 


Sample printing machine, 144 

Sarree printing machine, 151 

Schreiner calender; Construction of ——-, 199 

; Hydraulic pressure for , 199 

; with slipping clutch, 199 

Schreiner calenders, 188 

Schreiner machines, 198 

Scouring and shrinking machine for knitted goods, 290 
Scouring machine for knitted goods, 289 

Serimp rails, 54 

; Self-sharpening ——,, 54, 55 

Scroll rollers, 58 

Seutcher, 52 

Self-cleansing bowls for wool scouring machine, 267 
Self-sharpening scrimp rails, 54, 55 

Selvedge stamping machine, 218 

Seven bowl finishing calender, 191 


; Arrangement of bowls in , 194 
Sewing machines, 17, 18 
Sewing stitches, 19 
Shafts; Bearings for , 315 
Shearing machines; Cutting blades for , 119 


—— ; Ledger blades for a hs) 


Shearing machines, 119 


Shearing machine; Faller beam for cL ED 
; Four-cutter 5 nits) 
; Six-cutter , 119 

Short conditioning machine, 168 

Side frames of calenders, 189, 190 

Silk finishing calender, 194 

skins; De-gumming vat for , 224 

Singeing machines; Plate , 19 

Singeing machines; Fuel for AA 
; Gas burners for , 23, 24, 25 


; Gas flame 3 

Single colour printing machine, 140 

Single cutter shearing machine, 120 

Six bowl calender, 191 

Six-colour printing machine, 142 

Six-cutter shearing machine, 119 

Skein dyeing machines, 242, 244, 246, 249, 253 

Skein washing machines, 221 

Skewing device for schreiner calender, 200 

Slack washing machines, 30, 31, 32 

Slip winch; Automatic 5 Gl 

Slotted tube device for mercerisers, 104 

Soaping stocks for yarn, 221 

Souring and washing machines for mercerised yarns, 
266 

Spiral roller breaking machine, 208 

Spray damping machine, 172 

Spreading rollers, 55, 57 

Spring beetling machine, 204 

Spring pressure for printing machines, 140 

Sprocket wheel for stenter machine, 127 

Square beater washing machine, 33, 34 

Squeezing machines, 28,33, 84,36 ee euiei 


« ° a 
MY ee 8 


« 
c 

by c 

~ @€ € G6 


INDEX 


Squeezing mangles for wool scouring machines, 274 
Starching and drying range, 178 

Starching mangles, 173, 174 

; Bowls for pelt 


; Construction of aaa: 
Starch mangles; Friction , 176 
Steam chest, 149, 152 
Steam driven centrifuge, 228 
Steam dryers, 314 
Steam injectors, 39 
Steam traps, 309, 310 
Steaming cottage, 162, 
Stenter clips for mercerisers, 108 
Stenter frames, 108 
Stentering machines, 123 
soe ; Construction of , 181 
—— ——; Differential gear for 24 T 
—— — ; Hotair Soh 
—— ——; Jigging , 181 
; Jigging motion for 5 lifts) 


Stretching apparatus for mercerisers, 111 

Suction washing device for printing machines, 149 
Sulphur black dyeing machine, 93 

Swing Rake type of wool scouring bowl, 269 
Swivel opening and guiding rollers, 54 

Swissing calenders, 188 


Ten-bowl calender, 194 

Tentering machines, 77, 78 
Threading of seven-bowl calender, 194 
Three-bed hosiery steam press, 303 
Three-bowl starch mangle, 174 

Three bowl swissing calender, 191 
Tingor dyeing machine, 252 

Top dyeing machine, 258 

Traverse motion for singeing machinery, 21 
Twelve colour printing machine, 143 
Twigging for scroll rollers, 58 
Two-bed hosiery steam press, 302 


Universal filling mangles, 177 


Vitralite, 83 
V-squeezing rollers, 34 


Waggons for Mather kier, 39, 221 

Warps; Machines for dyeing ——, 252 

Washing, fixing, chloring and dunging machines, 162 

Washing machines; Beaters for , 165 

—— for fabric, 28 

—— —— for yarn, 219 

Water dropping in ageing chambers; Prevention of 

, 160 

Water ejector in drying cylinders, 64 

Water mangle, 60 

Weft straightening device, 131 

Winch dyeing machine for woven fabric, 81 

for hosiery, 296 

Winches, 81 

Wool carbonising machine, 275 

Wool fabric scouring machines, 74, 75 

Wool scouring machinery, 267 

; Bowls for Od 

; Brattices for 2 210 

Woollen fabrics; Drying machines for Rais fits) 

; Finishing machinery for , 299 

—— ——; Flat plate pressing machine for : 
214 

Worm reduction gear for printing machines, 144 


Yarns; Bleaching machinery for , 221 
; Drying machines for » 232, 236, 238 
——; Dyeing machines for , 242, 244, 246, 249, 


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